916 GTV Spider door, panel and window alignment and adjustment DIY

[Cool Jesus]

Well, I've touched on this subject in a previous unrelated thread. For my particular issue, I'm not entirely satisfied with the gaps of the individual panels and windows on my Spider which can certainly do with some adjustment. Having had a search on various Alfa forums I've been unable to find any real usable information without some considerable effort. In fact all I've come across was some info with photos on the window drop down cam mechanism, which I believe is also relevant.
This series of GTV and Spiders have a particular method in body panel and window alignment as owners can appreciate, so I thought it would be worthwhile to start up an all in one thread on methods and measurements pertaining to this subject. Along with some decent photos from owners with proper adjustments or fixes. I find actual photos a little more realistic compared to the diagrams in the workshop manuals.
Anyhow, thought I’d start out with some of the tools/gauges used in seeking proper adjustments, in particular the tool used for the spider window to windscreen frame. Has anybody ever come across this gauge tool kit 1.823.030.000. Owning a spider I’m particularly interested in the distancing tool between the window profile to the windscreen pillar.
In any case, I’ll be diarizing my efforts and hopefully others will add theirs, in getting panels (doors, bumpers, boot, bonnet, roof and windows) adjusted and aligned to make my spider (or your GTV) look just right.

[colcol]

Gauge tool no xyz would be what the factory MIGHT use when building the car, the person building the car would use their fingers and eyesight to line up the gaps, if you have ever seen cars being built there are no gauges used, just brute force with mallets and screwdrivers.
You might be best to go and purchase a plastic vernier that doesn't chip the paint for $5 from Jaycar, i have had one for about 10 years and use it when i go to Bunnings, so if i leave it on a shelf it doesn't matter as it cost $5 as opposed to my metal one that cost $30.
Spider gaps dramaticly change over the years due to lots of flexing in the body, the gaps will change from car just sitting there to sitting on chassis stands to sitting there with driver sitting there and or passenger, a;ways mark around door strikers and hinges with pencil, so you can see where you are going, Colin.

[Cool Jesus]

I figured that would be the case. Guess I'll be gauging it off the seals then. See how we go.

[colcol]

I have spent hours lining up doors on Suds and 33's, the further out they get, the more you have to slam the doors, the more you slam the doors, the further out they get, etc.
Try by taking off door striker catch and then get door sqaure in opening by adjusting hinges up and down and back and forth, but do it slowly slowly and check the front mudgaurd to door gap as a slight adjustment can scrape the door on the mudgaurd, open door slowly and see that gaps don't closeup too much.
Once you have the door sqaure in the opening, put the door catch back and put white out correction fluid all over the striker and the door catch to see where it is catching and rubbing.
You need to have it so it just slightly lifts the door when it shuts so there is a bit of support for the door so it doesn't rattle as you drive over bumps.
The top of the striker should show slight evidence of the door lifting, by rubbing the white marker off the striker.
Make sure the arc of the door isn't rubbing on the body of the striker.
Should take about 4 hours to do, not the worst job in the world and if you get it right, lots of satisfaction.
With 2 Door Alfasud the doors were long and used to sag and when you would slam them, the door mirror would go out of adjustment....GGGRRR, Colin.