Head Removal Nord Engine

[David Mills]

Trying to remove cylinder from Nord 1600 but having trouble separating head from block (in situ).

Does anyone have one of the removal tools advertised by EB Spares that i could borrow?

Thanks Dave

[Colin Byrne]

Just checking, but have you undone the 2 upside down m8 bolts that go up through the front cover into the head? Hard to see, easy to miss!

[AikenDrum105]

The " cams out - rope in #1 and #4 "  method is a good option also.   On a really stuck head the removal tools can put a fair load on the spark plug threads...

[David Mills]

Just checking, but have you undone the 2 upside down m8 bolts that go up through the front cover into the head? Hard to see, easy to miss!

Thanks Colin, got those

[David Mills]

The " cams out - rope in #1 and #4 "  method is a good option also.   On a really stuck head the removal tools can put a fair load on the spark plug threads...

That's a bit cryptic for me Scott.  More info please.

I don't expect the head to be really stuck. It is a recent runner

[AikenDrum105]

Sorry David

working around the bottom of the head with a wood block and a hammer is also a good place to start. Give the studs a good soak with Inox or wd40 or similar penetrant.

Using the head removal tool is easier in terms of setup as you don't have to disturb anything once you undo the timing chain - but most people have a bit of spare rope lying around

So the basic premise is:

* prior to starting this - get a good reference for your #1 TDC state - #1 piston at TDC #1 intake cam pointing to the drivers side and exhaust pointing to the pass. side,  mark where dizzy rotor is pointing. Usually the cam chain link is in between the cams at this state.

* remove the cams so all the valves are closed.

* I usually rotate the engine so that #1 and #4 are at the bottom of their stroke,  you could use #2 and #3 if that's easier. 

* feed some rope into the two cylinders you have at bdc via the spark plug holes.  you want the rope to pool on top of the piston and try and have equal amounts in each cylinder spooled evenly around the piston.  It doesn't need to be lots of rope - enough to spool around the outside edge of the piston. Unequal amounts of rope will cock the head as it lifts and bind it on the studs.

* rotate the engine clockwise via a socket on the crank pulley, or by putting the car in 1st/reverse and pushing it to rotate the engine

* obviously if you have the engine all lined up at TDC with the cam chain undone you'll need to support that chain so it doesn't get tangled up in the timing case or jam as the crank rotates it.  If working on your own it might be easier to join the chain back up and support it with a loop of wire hanging off the bonnet.

* as you rotate the engine and the pistons move up, they will compress the rope between the piston and the head to apply upwards force on the head to drive it up the studs.   That's why you want the valves closed.   Even if this doesn't lift the head straight away, you can apply pressure to it this way and then work around the base with wood block / hammer to nudge it up.

* it's a bit of messing around and it requires you to get your engine back to TDC before refitting the cams again - I hope I haven't made this sound more complicated than it is. 

I hope that helps - wiser cognoscenti on forum might be able to explain it better

[David Mills]

Thanks Scott for that comprehensive description of the rope trick.

I'll peservere a little longer before I try that.  Would obviously prefer to leave camshafts in place and crank rotation undisturbed at this stage. Will continue with wd40 treatment for a couple of days and have a further go at tapping, pressure from underneath etc. and keep looking for a removal tool.

[AikenDrum105]

You could make a removal tool  -   couple of reasonably thick pieces of steel plate (10mm+ ? ) to sit on top of the studs around cyl 1 and 4.   M14x1.25  threaded rod  and some matching nuts / washers.   drill a 14.5 ish hole in the middle of the plates in line with the spark plug hole and screw the rods in.   washers and nuts down the rod to the plate,  hold the threaded rod at the top with a double nut or similar,  and then wind the nut down on the washer and plate to pull the head up towards the plate. don't screw the rod in any deeper than a spark plug or you might bruise open valves / top of pistons.  you could chuck another double nut in to limit the depth too.

most important is to keep the threaded rod from turning in the spark plug holes under load so the threads aren't damaged.

if you can't find any M14x1.25 threaded rod (it is an odd size)  (or someone with a lathe won't screw-cut something up for you)  you can break the ceramic out of a couple of old spark plugs,  and weld in some standard threaded rod in maybe M8 or larger and do it that way.   Bunnings has a bunch of threaded rod for sort-of-cheep.   

you can also drill some blind 'sockets' on the underside to locate on the top of the studs - stops the plate rotating / slipping off the studs as you apply torque to the nut.

Hmm - that sounds just as complicated as the rope    

Good luck either way !   


I had to do this to pull a TS head for an urgent fix many moons ago..(purists avert thy gaze)   they can sometimes get really bonded to their studs..    (bit easier to get under the edge of a TS head though...)

It was still a case of lift it a few mm,  lower it,  rinse the crud out of the stud holes with inox,  lift it again  - etc etc etc until you de-bonded enough crud off the studs to let it slide off fully.

[David Mills]

Yeah, after a study of relevant posts on Alfabb, i think i might give that a try.  Threaded  rod  in M14 x 1.25 seems unobtainable. so, looks like weld up the old spark plug approach. I'm thinking flat steel 130 x 8 covering all studs and using allthread welded to spark plugs in all pots

[AikenDrum105]

This one PSk made is a nice easily made example - with the threaded rods also above the studs to lift even further.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-repair-diagnostics-rebuilding/419034-head-removal-using-puller.html#post6272826

[john m]

David
Scott's rope method does work. I've used it (with WD40) many times at 'pick-a-parts' to relieve stubborn Alfa heads. Use a nylon 8mm rope as it does not get pinched inside the cylinder like cotton rope might. Approx 1 metre should be enough, start on an end cylinder. Either remove the cams or undo the cam caps to close the valves. As it raises, remove the rope and repeat the process at the other end. The friction on the studs should keep the head up off the block. Always leave enough rope so you can pull it out.
Keep it simple, you don't have to spend coin on special tools.
John

[David Mills]

Succeeded with tool similar to Scott's suggestion. Will post pic when I get home on weekend. Thanks all.



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