Alfa 90 - Headliner / Headlining

[Beatle]

Mine is sagged of course.   I tried a search to no avail so:

1.  Can someone please direct me to a guide on how to remove the headliner from the car in one piece.

2.   Anyone know where to source some new (beige) foam-backed material to closely match the factory lining material?

3.  If I remove the cloth and scrub off the old crusty foam, can it successfully and NEATLY be re-glued to the board, or will it look like a dog's breakfast?  I'm thinking the foam backing hides the fine marks left by the adhesive and marks on the backing board.

4.  Does the backing board warp and sag significantly from the original height, or are they generally stable?  If so, any way to remedy (i.e. can you gain headroom by pushing up and fixing the board to the roof)?   

5.   Is there any additional metal structure or bracing across the roof (between lining and sheetmetal) or is there just the roof skin?

[Sheldon McIntosh]

1.  I've found directions on it with a google search in the past, but they may have disappeared.  It's pretty easy though.  Visors, all the visible bits of trim, and one big bolt in the middle, behind one of the lights from memory.  You need to make sure one of the front seats is reclined all the way, and then it's only just possible to get it out the back door, but you do need to bend it slightly to do so.

3.  I hope so, 'cos I'll be doing the same thing one day.  I've heard it can be done neatly if you're careful with some spray adhesive, but I'll be getting a pro to do mine I reckon.

4.  I don't think they sag at all.  I've never seen a sagging one anyway.

5.  One brace across the middle, in line with the B-pillar.

[pep105]

Hey Paul

Such is the case with 80s Italian sedans and the advent of fully moulded roof lining.

I've done this job twice, once on my Fiat 131 Superbrava and later on my 75TS.

Ill try and answer some of your questions

In the Fiat I had removed the back window to get the headliner out but in the 75 I managed to carefully slot it diagonally through the the LH rear door opening. You might be able to do the same but care needs to be taken not to damage or kink the backing board. I reused the old cloth on the Fiat but I wouldn't recommend this as the laminated foam backing would have deteriorated and its quite messy and difficult to separate off the cloth.
On the 75 I replaced the material with a pre laminated velour material with a far better result. The material then adheres nicely to the backing board with no lumps or distortion and far better supported than reusing the old material with damaged backing foam. I used a K&H contact adhesive bought from Auto One and bought the material from a textiles supplier.

Hope this helps

Pep

[four90s]

What I've found. I've repaired two hood linings and taken three out of cars that I've wrecked.

1. Removal as per Sheldon's directions. Just note that the edges of the board clip into a lip on the long edges. I usually take it out the front door. I've found that these boards are usually pretty tough and can take a bit of abuse. The board in the 75's seems a lot less strong. (Taken a 75 apart as well.)

2. I found a motor trimmer here in Adelaide who has similar material, but the colours are way off. (I was going to re-do a blue one, but I bought another car which had a good one in it). As I wanted to keep the original colour, the trimmer suggested replacing the material with some of his and re-gluing the original colour material back over the top. (He would do it for $200, if I took it out of the car and left it with him.)

3. It's hard to get it neat with contact glue, but I have have had some success using a spray contact glue. Because it's so hard to get all the old foam off, I use a technique I know as double glueing, where you spray on a coat of the glue and when it's gone tacky, spray on another coat, then glue it.

4. The backing boards don't seem to sag, just the cloth. That is usually the foam breaking down, cause you'll find the foam is still glued to the board and the cloth and a bugga to clean up enough to get it to re-stick.

5. The metal cross piece is supposed to be glued to the roof, but usually isn't. Can be fixed with Sikaflex or similar while you have the lining out. (Just glue and prop back up, preferably overnight)

Steve
Adelaide

[pep105]

Wasn't overly hard to get a neat finish with the contact adhesive, sure a bit of stuffing around to clean the backing board
but if you use a roller to press the material to the backing board it can bed in quite nicely, would depend on the thickness of the replacement material too. Matching the colour, well thats another story....

[Anthony Miller]

 There is more than a few very detailed threads on AlfaBB with pictures, I just searched for "headliner refurbishment" and found many results.

[Beatle]

Thanks for all the hints.  My roof/interior is the beige so hopefully that will be easier to get a material match than if it were blue.

So I'll be seeking out replacement material, and in the meantime I'll hit the sagging material with the staple gun to hold it off my hair.

This is also one case where we can't solely blame the Italians for using this type of lining.  Many cars did, and still do use this foam-backed rubbish and it eventually falls apart no matter who makes the vehicle.  I've had the lining sag on a Fairmont (inexcusable to use it on a car designed for Aussie conditions), and seen similar on everything from Magnas to Hyundais to 164s.  For serviceability you can't go past the one-piece flocked board lining in my Landcruiser.  The formed board allows better head clearance than the old stretched vinyl, still provides sound proofing and heat insulation, stays in place by virtue of its shape, and I've even had mine out and hit it with detergeant and the Karcher with no ill-effects.  The 'flocking' seems to be impregnated into the board so it doesn't separate, but is fine enough to give it a pleasant finish.

[VeeSix]

The 33s came with the best non sag type roof lining, very solid, but does not have the luxury look/feel of the cloth 164 type.

[Beatle]

For future reference, the manual staple gun worked brilliantly.  6mm long staples inserted at the top of the curve of the overhead console keeps the lining fairly snug against the backing board, and doesn't look as ugly as it could.

[Beatle]

Headliner is out.

Once the trim around the roof edges is removed, snap off the rear view mirror, then the liner is held up by:
-four screws up front holding the mirror mount
-one screw centre-rear under the small plastic cover
-one nut under the single eyeball light overhead.

Before removing the screws, pop the square panel out of the overhead console and disconnect the two large plugs (they come off rearward) and also remove the single bolt holding all the earth connections.

My interior was stripped except for dash and drivers seat and the headliner easily came out via a front door.

Anyone know where I can find these types of clips to fit a 5mm pin?   Had to break them all to remove the console and wiring from the headliner.

[Beatle]

As expected, the metal roof support was unstuck from the roof panel.  I'll glue it back.

[Beatle]

Pics of the attachment points.  Also the board sits snugly against the sides of the roof so needs to be coaxed away at the edges slightly.

[colcol]

Those clips to suit the 5 mm pins, i have never been able to find them, so i use a 4mm internal shakeproof star washer, a 5mm one just has too much clearance, so you broach on a smaller size, there are 2 types of shakeproof washers internal star and external star, use the internal so that it bites on the pin, and tap it on with a socket, OR use an appropriate sized speed nut, not a 'U' nut, but a single sided speed nut, and to get them off,...cut them off with some sharp side cutters, Colin.

[Beatle]

Maybe this?

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/page39.jpg

PN:  892.220   3/16" is just under 5mm so should work

[tuntablejames]

You may find this amusing, but I tapped the plastic studs and used nuts to secure the roof lining  to the roof console. Worked very well indeed. I think I used 4mm metric, but not quite sure about that. Much better than the clips, as it is removable without damage.