Head/timing queries

[f1fascination]

Hi all, I've recently fitted a recon'd head to my '73 GTV 2000 and have a couple of questions regarding the timing chain. I've fitted a new top one, but on tensioning the chain, the two marks on the back of the cam's are about 3mm away from their corresponding marks on the clamps that hold the cams down(at the front, both lobes facing away from each other as per the book) with the crank pulley lined up at "P" as per the book also.
With the cam's lined up, the "P" on the crank is rotated clockwise quite a way, about an inch from the marker.
Number one on the distributor is correct with the P lined up.
My question is, is it possible I am a tooth out on the crank, compared to the cam's?
The engine hasn't been run, only turned over by hand to try and time it up.
The tensioner pulled the chain up nicely, and the engine turned freely.
Thoughts?
And a big thanks to Marc at Milano's for the excellent work on the head.
And unrelated, where would one fine a nice period AM radio for their GTV?

[DaveT]

I must preface this by saying I'm no expert, and I'm not sure if this amount of 'out' is the result of being one tooth out, however I know you can fix this easily by adjusting your cam timing.

If as you say there's good tension on the chain and the engine is rotating freely, I would turn the engine again in it's direction of rotation and line the timing pointer back up with the P on the crank pulley, again ensuring the cam lobes are pointing outward. I assume you're running stock, unground 1052003 camshaft? With that assumption undo the big bolt on the front of one of the camshaft that attaches the sprocket to the camshaft and then undo and remove the vernier adjustment thru-bolt, careful not to drop it down the timing case. Clamp some locking pliers around the 'neck' of the camshaft up near the sprocket, wrap some leather or such like around the camshaft if you don't want to mark it, and rotate the camshaft so the marks line up whilst ensuring the sprocket remains stationary. Replace the adjustment bolt through the holes that line up in the sprocket and tighten the big sprocket/camshaft bolt and re-tab the washer. Repeat for the other side. Note, the holes that line up on the sprocket may be at the bottom of the sprocket in which case you'll have to clamp up the big bolt, then when you're finished adjustment of both sides, rotate the engine so the holes that line up are at the top. Note also you want those cam timing marks to line up as close as you can get them.

Hope this helps.
Dave

[Cool Jesus]

I half expected more replies, anyhow. Mate the tensioner should have no effect on the timing marks. It's purpose is to remove any slack in the chain, not adjust the timing if you follow my logic. Ill have a look at my tech docs for you today, unless another member chimes in. But don't go adjusting the timing by moving the cams just yet.

Period radios, yeah there may have been a thread on that here. I know there's acpant that does retro radios with current media capability like blue tooth, mp3, hidden cd and/or cd. Ill see if Ivan find the site for you. I think they're called vintage radio or retro radio?

[Cool Jesus]

I stand corrected 

Dave is spot on with the adjustment procedure. You shouldn't be a tooth out with that amount of misalignment. Pat Braden's book also adds that once done, turn the engine two full turns to ensure that the timing marks are linging up. Tensioning should only allow slight vertical movement of the chain between the cams.

Here are those vintage radio sites;
http://www.vintagecarradio.com/
http://www.retrosoundusa.com/

These two came up with a vintage car radio search on goggle, you'll find others on ebay and I'm fairly sure we have a local Oz supplier too.

[AikenDrum105]

A couple of quick things that might help with the head,   run some old rags under the cams and chain to catch the sprocket bolts and cotter pins when you drop them  (I always drop something),   and it's worth checking with a dial indicator, wooden dowel, screwdriver etc down the #1 or #4 spark hole exactly where TDC is in relation to the P mark / pointer  ...  those little crank pointers are all over the place.

Obviously only leave the implement of choice down the hole while close to TDC  - or a valve will become interested in it.     Done that before too... *sigh*...

Hope that helps a little.

Cheers,

[f1fascination]

Hey thanks guys! I will be revisiting the problem today, but after my manifolds are bolted back up.
I'll be sure to let you know how I go, and many many thanks for the help.
I'm not really after a "vintage-look" radio, just a vintage one!
We have a good AM station still running in Perth, and I don't want anything to drown out that wonderful twin-cam.

[f1fascination]

Just a little update for anyone interested, I had great success in rotating my cams just slightly, as per Dave T's advice, and didn't drop a single bit into the timing cover! Got everything timed up perfect, so thanks to everyone for the help!I did notice a bit of slop in the bottom chain, but that is a job for another day...
Does any one have any recommendations on coolant that they are using?
Thanks again