2000 GT Veloce Repairs.

[Balfa]

http://i.imgur.com/vGZAip4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tiVFiCN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FaJBbcw.jpg

[Balfa]

http://i.imgur.com/B0DhXnB.jpg
Anyone interested in them can send me an email. I have one gentleman asking about them, so I did chase up some dates and work history on my carbies.

I have a question if someone can help me out. As mentioned before I'm fitting the weber dcoe 45's, bought new from alfaholics. I won't be doing the fitting solo, but I was trying to figure out what linkage parts I need. Please does anyone know what extra linkage parts I need?
I had a quick look at http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/223.htm but I didn't want to buy anything without finding out exactly what parts I need.

Work for this week includes taking my first visit to the ACT chapter of AROCA and working on the door sills hopefully this weekend.

[f1fascination]

This is a great post mate, I'm currently doing a rolling resto on a 1973 GTV 2000 but all completely standard and original bar the odd Superflex bush and Koni shock, just for reliability really.
A big thanks to supergiuli for hooking me up with a couple of period AM radios too, the IDI is fitted up and looks great.
Pics to follow......

[LaStregaNera]

Regarding the sill repair sections you had folded up - you're aware that they're not straight? I've seen photos of 105s that have been repaired using straight sections under the doors, and it looks abysmal.

[AikenDrum105]

Hi mate,   in Imgur you want to select the image size down the bottom - eg "Large Thumbnail" and then copy paste the "Linked BBCode (Message Boards)" into your posts

Here's one I prepared earlier.

Code Select Expand

[URL=http://imgur.com/GdE1QTt][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/GdE1QTt.png[/IMG][/URL]



I haven't tried the amazon sandblasters,  but have used the SuperCheap version with good success.  if you want to blast the whole engine bay - will take a while and use a lot of medium - but it was perfect for addressing corroded / pitted areas and generally cleaning things up.    My cheapie BR180 supercheap compressor was up to the task in bursts - you'd have to stop now an then to let it catch up.   

Great pics - I see you have an early PACE filter mount.  Shiny !

[Balfa]

Regarding the sill repair sections you had folded up - you're aware that they're not straight? I've seen photos of 105s that have been repaired using straight sections under the doors, and it looks abysmal.

Hi LaStregaNera - If you mean they have a slight curve, I have factored that in and will duplicate the curve in the door sills?

This is a great post mate, I'm currently doing a rolling resto on a 1973 GTV 2000 but all completely standard and original bar the odd Superflex bush and Koni shock, just for reliability really.
A big thanks to supergiuli for hooking me up with a couple of period AM radios too, the IDI is fitted up and looks great.
Pics to follow......

f1 - Thanks mate, I look forward to taking a look at your pictures

Aiken/Scott - I promise the next update will be better Oh and thanks for the advice on the sandblasters.

[LaStregaNera]

Hi LaStregaNera - If you mean they have a slight curve, I have factored that in and will duplicate the curve in the door sills?

From memory there's a compound curve in them (curved top and bottom edges curved cross section), - Wolf Steel's repair panels (which would be otherwise similar) factor that curve in, but when I did the sills on mine I hit a point where it the time/effort of stuffing around to get that style of sill repair to work and be tidy massively outweighed the cost of buying the full length sill pressing from Alfaholics/Classic Alfa... I did however fabricate my own A/B pilar bottom repair panels...

Oh, and while I think of it - don't use the Hydrochloric acid for treating/cleaning rust - get the Phosphoric acid (rust remover/rust stain remover) from bunnings - it leaves a protective phosphate coating on the steel and doesn't continue to attack the steel if it gets wet after being allowed to dry, or if you leave it in the acid too long... (it's also what most of the "rust converters" actually contain as a functional component)

[Balfa]

Argh. I'm not sure I/we will manage to duplicate the compound curve you describe, but we will do our best.

Man, I wish I got your advice regarding the hydrochloric vs phosphoric acid before I bought two bottles. I'm going to have to take a visit to Bunnings again and see if I can find phosphoric, I couldn't find it last time.

[LaStregaNera]

It's in amongst the cleaning section from memory.

[Balfa]

Just a short few updates from the last week or so. Unfortunately I have not been able to do much on my car with Easter, work, life etc taking up my time.

I did however manage to take some group shots of my new parts that I've collected over the months in preparation. I can't fit them yet to my car so I thought I might as well show them off and enjoy as I can





As you can see I've focused mainly on the essentials and the parts I should replace while I've got my car stripped. Another thing I've learnt is that you can keep on spending money on your car if you don't have a limit.

P.s. most of the parts have been sourced from alfaholics, some from other sources.

[Balfa]

I did also order some red kote to seal my petrol tank. The main reason for using red kote was after a little bit of internet research and reading some reviews on the stuff.





I know that phosphoric acid is recommended however after checking my tank, there wasn't much scale or rust so I ended up just doing a 3 stage treatment:
- 1 week of caustic soda.
- 10 mins of a weak hydrochloric acid solution.
- Red cote to seal.

Also I had already bought 2 litres of hydrochloric acid so I didn't want to waste the money. I couldn't get a good inside picture of the tank, but after two coats of red kote days of drying I ended up with a nice red lined petrol tank.

The outside of the tank was cleaned once all the red kote was fully cured.

[Balfa]

I thought I'd spend a bit of time cleaning the heater unit under the dash.




I tell you what, that unit was a nightmare to remove. Mainly because I've never done it before and it took me around an hour of trying to remove the worn metal clips that hold the two halves together at the back.

Figured it out in the end and ended up cleaning the unit as best I could.

[Balfa]

Also managed to clean up the (not sure what the proper name is) the air intake/wiper cavity.

[Balfa]

Seems to be a limit on the linked thumbs I can add per post?

I had already cleaned up this shield a bit ages ago, but thought I'd have another crack and do it properly even though it's not seen.


Still some stubborn surface rust spots that I didn't want to grind away too much on, so I ended up rust treating it.

[Balfa]

Oh the red kote once you add the acetone.