replacing suspension cushions on GTV 2.0

[fack33]

I commenced replacing RH suspension cushions in my GTV 2.0. Looks like a simple enough job in the Haynes Workshop manual. However it has me stumped. The manual shows two separate locking nuts one at each end of the camber adjusting sleeve suggesting that the  screwed ends one to the cushions and the other to the upper susp arm can each be screwed inside the sleeve to shorten the overall length of the full assembly allowing it to be more easily pulled out from where it passes through the car body. I am talking parts numbered 28-31 in said Manual. The sleeve can be screwed back to the limit of the threads on the susp arm end. The supposed locking nut on the other end is welded to the sleeve and to the rod. No adjustment is possible at this end and the whole assemble protrudes through the car body at least 1 inch. Even pulling the susp arm back does not allow anywhere near the clearance to bring it behind the engine compartment or to remove the worn cushions. I then unscrewed the sleeve and separated it from the susp arm end. I can now get the old cushions out but cannot rescrew the sleeve to the susp arm. There is obvious tension on this and even using a pipe wrench to help with alignment of the threads does not help. I then took off the new bushes and washer , poked the cushion end through the front mounting hole into the engine compartment and still cannot get the sleeve to reattach to the susp arm rod. Any ideas anyone?  Threads are all ok.

[Neil Choi]

It is the castor arm you are talking about and changing the castor bushes which connect the arm onto the body through the hole, correct?  The castor arm that is attached to the upper wishbone, correct.  I usually disconnect the castor arm from the upper wishbone by drilling out the three steel rivets (older GTV, ie 1977 and older) or undo the one bolt or rivet (plastic bumper GTV), is that what you got.  Once this is disconnected, you can just take out the whole castor arm easily. 


Unless we are discussing different things here.

[Neil Choi]

The lock nut(s) should not be welded to the sleeve or to the arm.  Of the two parts to the entire arm connected by the sleeve, one has left hand thread and the other has right hand thread so that when you turn the sleeve the arm gets longer or shorter depending which way you turn, once adjusted to the right degrees, say 4.5 or 5, you lock up the sleeve via the two lock nuts, correct?


I think I have might tried what you have described by shortening the arm as much as possible but still unable to move the arm out of the hole to the body to change the castor bushes.  Also are you replacing the bushes with original rubber ones or nolathane ones, nolathane (blue in colour) are better and you will never have to do them again.