some advice required

shay1000 · May 12, 2014, 06:28:11 PM

ok, here we go...for better or for worse I bought the car (1998 GTV Spider, so I hope I am in the correct category). Need some advice on some required fixes, I am an ex tradesperson (aircraft electrical and instrument fitter) so I do have some mechanical nous.

1/ The power steering has a leak, what is the most likely cause and is it only for the qualified Alfa mechanic?

2/ bushes in the gear linkage train worn, is there a kit available?

3/ now the biggie - the hood DID work (fully automatic type) but now it don't, I have downloaded the workshop manual and printed off the 17 page hood section - ye gods!!! I have seen simpler systems on an A4-G Skyhawk!!! Again, most likely culprit so that I may speed up my fault finding. (at the moment the rear of the hood raises, but it refuses to play nice after that point, requiring manual stowage. The right rear catch cable is clearly way out of adjustment)

I want to do this car up as a keeper, there is just me and the dog, 2 seats is all I need

colcol · May 12, 2014, 09:28:02 PM

1. The power steering has a leak, it is usually the internal seal that leaks in the power rack assembly and then it leaks into the gaitors, and if they are leaking, its all over the ground, if the gaitors are not leaking, then they are full of power steering fluid, if i remember rightly, the GTV is based on the 155 and the underpinnings may be different to the 147-156 series, if its similar to the 156, then you have to drop the subframe to remove the rack thats bolted to the subframe, its a big job, so you want the power rack repaired properly, most likely best to leave it to an Alfa Romeo Service provider as they will know how to pull the power rack out and fix it, if you take it to a power steering specialist, they won't know how to take it out, as there are not a lot of GTV's around, some power steering places don't fix power racks, they just replace them with a new Chinese one, doubt whether there is a cheap Chinese rack for a GTV though, but if you are a glutton for punishment, remove the Power steering rack yourself and take it to an Alfa Romeo Specialist.
2. There are bushes available for the 2 cable type gearchange on the 147-156 series cars, for your car, i think it is different to the cables, in so far it has a rod gear linkage, and i am sure in an earlier post some one said bushes are available, try Italian Automotive Spares, [03] 9036 1606.
3. No idea at all.
4. I am a cat man myself, Colin.

Cool Jesus · May 12, 2014, 11:09:27 PM

Hey welcome aboard.
1 where's the leak? I'd be guessing that your spider my be suffering what mine had. Especially with the added gear linkage issue. You need to get some room under the car. There's 2 bolts that hold the rack in place on the crossbar. I'd put money down that they're coming loose! If there loose the banjo bolts on the rack are wiggling loose and seeping fluid. Had a heart pounding drive home after both bolts fell out and the only thing giving me what felt like bumper bowling steering was the hole in the fire wall where the coloumn went through.
2 now, the gear linkage on this series isn't a cable as Col mention. They're a rod mechanism which uses the steering rack as a fulcrum. If the rack is loose, the pivot for the gear shift is all over the place and had probably chewed out a hard rubber grommet for a ball joint. They're made of unobtainium and molded the the vestrel virgins in Valhalla. Definitely give dom at Italian spares a call, he may still have a rod with that grommet in place. I forked out $100 for it when Dom had it cheaper in the rod set.
3 check the hydrolic oil. Follow the manual to replace it. My hood would never finish closing for the previous owner and I sorted it out with $20 bottle of fluid and was a great bargaining chip. Oh yeah, you could be right about some adjustment, just go over the manual. But my guess is low fluid, hopefully you haven't sprung a leak.

Check my posts. I've started threads and made posts on all 3 of these issues. I'm only up here in Sydney if you want to meet up and do a quick reconouter. PM me. This series Alfa is workable for the DIYer, evenso always use a mech with Alfa experience, it's false economy not to mate. Study the manual and read it through a few times, it will start making sense once you get your hands dirty.

shay1000 · May 12, 2014, 11:55:39 PM

thanks for that so far guys. got the car back from Corbins (Wollongong) today. New timing belt and water pump, plus balance belt and tensioner. Expensive but less than I anticipated.

Mechanic has simply written "power steering pump is leaking". He had already gone home when I picked the car up, I will call him tomorrow for some extra info.

Not against cats, but you can not take a cat on a geotech investigation, whereas the dog has a ball. Once saw written in the UOW magazine - "want a box full of shit in your house? buy a cat"

colcol · May 13, 2014, 04:30:33 AM

Its better that the power steering pump is leaking, rather than the rack, the pump is easier to get at, and a replacement pump can be put in, if it is the same one as a 147-156 series, then a new one is not too pricey, you could get the pump repaired, but if you can source a new one, that would be better.
Cats are very clean, will only crap in a house if locked in, but just like an Alfa Romeo, needs lot of attention, Colin.

Cool Jesus · May 13, 2014, 08:44:16 AM

Just read over your hood problem again. Sounds like the hard cover isn't working from what I read. The gear cog in the lock mechanism is a regular fault. After time and use the plastic cog just breaks its teeth and the worm drive won't turn the cog. Pretty sure I did a quick thread on that one too. It's possible to reuse the broken cog until a more permanent solution is found.

shay1000 · May 13, 2014, 09:06:39 AM

just finished speaking to the mechanic, the pump is leaking from a seal.

The right rear cable is adrift from the latch, so I will start there. At the same time check the oil etc. You are right, I do all the unlatching and then press the centre console button - nothing. I have found a place which makes replacement drive cogs to replace the plastic ones. The hood did work via the button behind the driver, in as much as the rear would raise, requiring everything else to be done manually.

We had a cat that would play outside, but then rattle the screen door to be let back in, do its doings inside, stink the house out (until the litter kicked in) and then want to be let out again.

Cool Jesus · May 13, 2014, 12:27:54 PM

Starting to get confusalled with our terminology here. Sounds like you've got a latching issue with the 'roof cover' and you seem to have it diagnosed. Now the roof itself isn't working? And your having to operate it manually. Check around the pump and both sides where the hydraulic rams are for any signs of oil leakage. If none, that's good, go through the process of emptying the oil resorvoir on the pump. You need to manually lift and lower the roof a few times and syphon out the old oil. I used a hand pump use for filling gearboxes etc purchased from auto parts store. The OEM oil is again sourced from the heavens and just as rare. Penrite LDAS fluid is a virtual exact match and reasonable in cost ~$20 / litre, reservoir holds under 700ml, there should be a full mark or point and the system does hold a little in its plumbing. Test, check for leaks again and top up if necessary.

Ps, where have you found the cog for the lock?

shay1000 · May 13, 2014, 05:04:04 PM

I went up to Sydney today to buy a preloved steering pump, an Alfa wrecker in Marrickville I found on eBay. He claims to be able to get them made. Seemed a decent guy to deal with. I also need a new rear window, mine it totally opaque.

I will try to explain how the roof operated. The centre console switch did nothing. it did flash frantically when I turned on the ignition. I used one of the switches behind the driver, the rear of the hood raised, and the body panel/cover raised, I then folded the hood manually. I was having a fiddle when I found both cables really slack, then one went totally limp.

Despite the flaws and the problems the run to Sydney was a great deal of fun!!!

Cool Jesus · May 13, 2014, 06:17:39 PM

Yeah, that's what I thought you had. Those cables do remain slack though. If you pull to the rear on them they should act on the side latches. There shouldn't be much if any give if you pull the cable forward though, even so I don't think you have a problem there unless it's not locking down. The flashing light indicates problems with the hood. The self diagnostics for the roof will let you know if there's a problem and what sort by the rhythm of the flashes.

Flaws! No mate, there's no flaws in Alfas. It's just the way the car talks to us, letting us know it wants our attention and luv

But it's very true, there's nothing out there that puts that smile on your face like an Alfa does.

colcol · May 13, 2014, 06:51:51 PM

If the pump you are buying is a second hand one, make sure it has some sort of warranty, 3 months or so, see how it compares to a new one or a reconditioned one, also with a warranty, there is a fair amount of work, removing and installing pump, make sure its a good one that is put in, there are 3 different versions of the 2 litre twin spark, make sure you get the right one, Colin.

shay1000 · May 13, 2014, 09:00:26 PM

thanks to both of you for your help, I think I am going to enjoy this car. It has gone to a good home

Stephen

shay1000 · May 28, 2014, 05:56:27 PM

Happy to report that the 1950km round to trip to western Victoria (Rainbow) went off without a hitch. One fault showed itself, the speedo refused to go over 120 km/hr, so I was driving via my GPS. In attempting to force the needle to rise (i.e. what speed do I have to do to make it rise further) I ended up with a speeding fine, but not as much as he could have given me.

Let's face it, Gundagia is NOT the area to start doing speed tests. Nearby is one of the most aptly named towns in Australia - Bookham

Cool Jesus · May 28, 2014, 08:00:05 PM

Your going to have fun diagnosing the speedo. You'll need to figure out it circuit and considering you have a phase 2 engine in a phase 1 body, it's going to be interesting. From what I've gathered the ph1 speedo ran a sensor off the gearbox whereas the ph2 received its signal from the abs. I'd imagine that the ecu was replaced along with the engine, if that's the case you may need a ph2 cluster to get your speedo back on track? Just guessing at this stage, depends on how far the engine swap went with changing ancillary items.

shay1000 · May 28, 2014, 09:44:12 PM

I would definitely say the cluster is original, it shows the total km of (now) in excess of 247K. It seems easy enough to remove (famous last words maybe?). BTW that faint ringing sound is not the exhaust bracket, I removed the cover and looked carefully for any cracking as advised. it may just be a pulley but I am starting to suspect the alternator, maybe worn bushes/bearings and as the engine has been changed it may (or may not) have included the alternator.

Free Sunday, if you wish to meet up.