Jacking up GT with trolley jack

[oz3litre]

Where is it safe to put a trolley jack under a GT to raise both wheels off the ground front and rear? Also where can you put axle stands?

[colcol]

I have 2 trolley jacks, a real good one about $300 and a cheaper one thats more portable, $60, the 156 is the same as a 147, which is GT underneath, i usually use the both trolley jacks to jack up the front at once, and put the chassis stands on the bottom of the front suspension, but if you are doing suspension work, after you have put the chassis stands on the front suspension, use both jacks to lift the front a bit more, and put the stands on the jacking points at the front, the jacking points are round bits of metal about 40 mm in diameter and about 20 mm long, there may be reference in the owners manual.
For the back, put one jack under back suspension in middle and jack up and put chassis stands on rear jacking points.
It all depends on what you are working on, and where you need to be able to get at without the chassis stands being in the way.
There is no where to jack up at the front, using a single jack, but you could jack up one side at the front and then do the other side, Colin.

[Cool Jesus]

As col said, he beat me by a few seconds on the post. Avoid jack stands that are a single post to the ground with a flat base, they have tendency to topple. Use ones with four legs. Jacking points per owners manual, along with areas that normally hold the full weight of the car such as the suspension, again as col said. If you have a good sized block of wood that can give you a little more lift with the jack, so as to fit the stands. Make sure your trolley jack rolls on its wheels as it's lifting too, otherwise you may pull the car off the stands. Finally, place the wheels under the car as a safety net, even if they're not coming off. There no joy in jacking a car that's belly flopped, especially if your under it. Absolute final, with all wheels up, just be mindful that stands aren't the best for this so don't go wrenching away and shift the cars weight off the stands. If possible just do 2 wheels at a time, or source an extra wheel with spare if your doing some wheel work. Alternatively do whatever to the front, temporary install wheels then do your rear.
Be careful, what are you working on?

[oz3litre]

Be careful, what are you working on?

Thanks for the help so far guys. I've been jacking cars for 45 years so I am well aware of the safety procedures. I am used to cars that have obvious central places to jack both wheels off the ground and the GT doesn't. I don't want to bend anything. I am currently trying to trace a noise coming from one or both of the front wheels and need to be able to spin them around. I also want to clean the insides of my wheels and struts and it is a nuisance taking the wheels off one side at a time. I only have one trolley jack.

[colcol]

You really need to have 2 trolley jacks, so you can jack up the GT evenly, one either side of the car on both jacking points, just jacking up one side puts all the stresses down one side of the car, you may bend something.
Look at the wheel bearings if its a whirrling noise or the brakes for a scraping noise, in my experience anyway, Colin.

[Cool Jesus]

No worries, sounded like you were a youngster in your original post. 45 years and no jack stands? It took me 20 I suppose, I now have three sets! Mate splurge a little, they are a good piece of basic kit for the back yard Alfa mechs. All three pairs sourced from supercheap ~ $30-40.

[oz3litre]

No worries, sounded like you were a youngster in your original post. 45 years and no jack stands? It took me 20 I suppose, I now have three sets! Mate splurge a little, they are a good piece of basic kit for the back yard Alfa mechs. All three pairs sourced from supercheap ~ $30-40.

I do have jack stands of course. I just didn't mention them. I have four and they have four legs. I grew up with my maternal grandfather and my father being mechanics and started working on cars with them at an early age. We always used the right gear. I also worked as a mechanic in couple of early jobs.

My current theory with the noise is that it could be the drilled holes in the discs. The discs were machined so I might need to countersink them.

[Cool Jesus]

My bad, you did actually mention jack stands in your first post.
Noise from the holes? Are you gettin a scrapping noise with the pads? Do you know what pads are installed?
On a slight tangent, the 164 I'm playing around with had a raised section around the disc which followed the dimples on the rotor. I've never driven it, and just replaced it all new. Are you able to describe the noise or are you ok with diagnosing it, having just a minor concern about other areas for lift a car?

[oz3litre]

My bad, you did actually mention jack stands in your first post.
Noise from the holes? Are you gettin a scrapping noise with the pads? Do you know what pads are installed?
On a slight tangent, the 164 I'm playing around with had a raised section around the disc which followed the dimples on the rotor. I've never driven it, and just replaced it all new. Are you able to describe the noise or are you ok with diagnosing it, having just a minor concern about other areas for lift a car?

No worries. The pads are almost new Alfa ones from The Spare Place. The noise is difficult to describe but is sort of a squeak or chirpy sound. I think it goes away when I put my foot firmly on the brake but it is hard to tell for sure. The discs were machined before installing the pads and I just wonder if the holes have a sharper edge as a result. The rears have holes as well but have older pads on them and the discs have not been machined. They are not noisy when I spin them around. I wanted to get both front wheels off the ground so I could spin them around faster and listen for the noise.

[Craig_m67]

Anti rattle springs not in properly or weak?

In the UK they coated the back of my pads/front of piston and the anti rattle springs with "copper slip" to stop squealing, not sure if it available in Aust.

[Neil Choi]

This will do it.

[colcol]

Just coat the sliding surfaces of the calipers with 'copperkote' or 'copperslip', so its not dry, the drilled and or slotted rotors are noisier than standard ones, why are you using them anyway?, Colin.

[Cool Jesus]

There shouldn't be any burrs as a result of the machining, apart from the cooper grease I also give the new pads a bevel champher on it's leading edge (if not already there). May have to give it another go at bedding them in, as the pads my have glazed. I think col also gives the pads a scrape on the concrete to roughen the glazing up. I like to find a good stretch of quite road and do the 60 to 10 kph runs, about 8 or 10 usually works fine for me. Just don't come to a complete stop while your doing it. Can't comment on noise between normal and drilled/slotted discs yet. Definitely sounds like pad vibration though.

[colcol]

Give the pads a bit of a rough up on some course concrete or bituman, rotate the pads in a figure 8 to knock the glaze off, the slotted and drilled rotors are supposed to clean any glaze off, as its wiping the glazed pad over, Colin.

[bazzbazz]

Found this tech page for the correct bedding procedures for pads & discs, thought it was good reading.

http://www.powerbrake.co.za/tech_info/tech_02_bedin.htm

Baz