Leaking FUEL TANK

[Neil Choi]

With regards to the possible and necessary metal repairs to the tank, if not doing it yourself, any radiator place will be able to fix it at little cost.  I had one repaired for a similar crack, $30, done which included a coat of paint.


I used one in Bayswater, great bloke, Mario.

[VeeSix]

Check your breather/pressure system is 100% operating, no blockages, no faults and get a new tank, your tank repairs will eventually just start leaking again, get rid of the problem or just keep repeating the fix 

[colcol]

Wish the had redcote back in the day with all my fuel tank dramas in the Volksy, i used to throw some metho in the tank every now and then, so that any water sitting in the tank rusting it, would mix with the metho and get burnt off.
Then discovered a plastic tank and put it in and never had any more problems, Colin.

[kartone]

VeeSix, a new tank isn't easy to find. I checked in the US and UK, no go.

[MD]

Kartone,

To chime in..

You have had some pretty straight forward advice on how to carry out the repair including safety cautions. All well and good. Nowhere have I picked up that you are a purist and want to retain the original tank. If that is the case, carry on.

Failing that, I am with VeeSix. Get a new tank but it doesn't have to be an original tank. It could be a hand made aluminium tank made locally to your requirements. It could be better baffled and reduce surge more so than the original one.

Just another approach..

[kartone]

MD the 34 year old car all original (including the radio/cassette player and factory ride height ).
The intention is to keep the original tank as it has absolutely no rust inside or out.
Fixing the symptoms (hairline crack/leak) is no problem, however rectifying the diagnosis (stopping the flexing/vibrations of the bottom of the fuel tank) without altering the appearance of the tank is not as easy.   

[MD]

No problem.
Got a sneaky solution for ya.
Cut the original tank in half at the seam.
Discard the top part and keep the bottom part.
Make a complete aluminium tank to fit inside the bottom remaining shell.
Use the shell as a mock up cover and hide the ally tank.

Who would know the difference?? 

[VeeSix]

Sorry, when I said a new tank, I did not mean it had to be brand new, although that would be nice, there are heaps of second hand tanks out there, get one that is still good on the inside and has not been repaired 

[kartone]

Red-Kote indicated a second coat can be applied within one month of the original coat, a year plus has gone by in my case .
Has anyone split the tank at the seam? There are no spot-welds, just a continuous rolling mark around the perimeter, is the joint glued or brazed? HELP  

[colcol]

A fuel tank or radiator in my experience is usually soldered, as it is low temperature and strong, brazing is high temperature and a bit stronger, usually for brackets and things that are thicker and requiring a lot of strength, soldering can be done with a friggen big soldering iron that won't distort the metal, i have actually been to a radiator/heater/fuel tank repair shop where they fix them, not many radiator repair shops left, as they just replace with new now, Colin.

[bteoh]

I bought a new one from Greece. Check out Benavellis in Greece.
Otherwise Chris from Highwood Alfa in the UK might be able to source a good refurbished one.

[kartone]

Has anyone split an Alfetta fuel tank ?

[Jekyll and Hyde]

I think you'll find that 'rolling line' is actually a resistance weld... In other words a continuous spot weld.

[kartone]

Yep, seam weld

[brook308]

Yep, seam weld

Where are u located?
I've just had a look a spare tank I have in a wreck and it looks good.
If your keen PM me and I'll take a closer look in the morning?