New to 75 ts

[Divano Veloce]

Thanks Guys,

I did the loosen and rev trick. The gearbox crossmember moved a bit and the vibration has changed somewhat but is still there. Am i right in thinking that an out of balance vibration would increase with rpm but an alignment issue with the donuts would reduce with rpm? Mine is bad up to ~2500 RPM but almost gone at 3000+.

The HT lead info is gold! So the resistors in the plug caps on my leads are mostly shot.... I will investigate a method to repair the plug caps as like you said MD the rest of the leads are fine. I will post any success/failure i have here....

[Divano Veloce]

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Resistor burnt out... These are not repairable as the terminals are crimped onto the ends of the resistor then cast into the bakelite

[Divano Veloce]

Car almost passed rwc, needs rear discs. While I'm replacing them I'll do the drive shaft seals.

Anyone know where I could get a pair of drive shaft seals and rear discs locally?

[Divano Veloce]

The pads and discs came out easily. It seems that the adjusters work!

So I've ordered discs... RDA667 apparently suit 88-92 v6 an TS

I'll also replace the pads while im at it, they're over half gone... Any advice on brand/source for these?
(tiny rear brakes for a 50/50 car...)

I'm going to replace the axle seals while i have the discs off. The manual describes the proces well (press apart, press/press with heat together...) but it'd be great to have the seals on hand to install. Any idea on the dimensions/part No. of these?

[Domenic]

Make sure the discs are for the 75 Twin Spark.

There are a lot of online sellers out there that just copy info out of catalog which are wrong to begin with.

There are a lot of local suppliers you can try, check the front page of the Club website.

[jazig.k]

When I changed over my 3lt and TS I noticed only one difference between the 2.
The V6 uses m10x1 bolts for the drive shafts going through the discs where the TS uses m8x1.

The clearance holes for the TS discs are smaller, probably 9mm or 8.5mm. The 3lt would be 10.5mm or 11mm.

Would it matter if you used V6 discs? Probably not, unless you don't tighten them up properly.

[Divano Veloce]

The discs arrived and look to be correct!

It seems that no-one that sells brake pads think that they sell pads for the 75 however i am fairly certain that they're the same as 1750/2000 rear pads, same as alfetta pads....... these are readily available.

[Divano Veloce]

I havent had much time to work on the 75 (4 weeks in Saudi didnt help much)...

anyway, i have removed the transaxle and replaced the following:

drive shaft seals
discs
pads
de-dion bush
watts bushes
transmission mounts
engine mounts


The drive shaft seals were straightforward but tedious to replace. The axle must be removed from the bearing/bearing flange to access the seal. It was only then that i could identify the seal and source a replacement (the're 36x56x9 i used 36x56x10). Here they are coming apart with a hydraulic puller:



As the old discs and pads were a bit thin i was reluctant to just retract the pistons and install the new discs and pads. Instead I removed the pistons and cleaned all the crud off them and reassembled with PBR rubber grease on the seal and high temp silicon grease on the outside of the seal between the piston and bore (under the dust seal). THis should prevent any corrosion or binding in the future and also wont melt and leak out onto the pads or discs. I just hope the adjuster seals don't leak!!

i have a good second hand tailshaft with very good guibos and center support so hopefully that will sort out the driveline vibration.

Dirty tranny:

[MD]

Divano,

(Referring to your seal replacement photos.)

During the process of pressing out the bearing so as to get access to the seal,there is a possibility that damage is sustained by the bearing**. It is therefore good practices to replace the bearing and the seal at the same time otherwise it may not be too long down the track that the box develops bearing noises you will not be happy to hear.

** This is because pressure is exerted onto the housing.

[Divano Veloce]

Thanks MD,

yes, the force applied to remove the bearing from the axle is via the balls and race whereas to assemble the force is applied directly to the inner race. However the bearing itself was a gentle transition fit; it did not take much to push the axle out. The retaining nut on the other hand.... it required heat and force to remove.

If the bearings wernt so expensive i would have replaced them... But i have replaced enough parts that were in pretty good shape so far on this car...

[MD]

Davino,

I am making these contributions initially as they relate to you but also with a view that others that are thinking of doing this job and follow this thread should get useful advice that is sound. I hope you are OK with that?

You got lucky with the bearing removal. It is not always the case. Sometimes they are bound up tight on the axle in which case there is a likelyhood of damaging them upon removal.

If you buy the parts from CBC they are cheap. Here are the two part numbers required.

Bearing-"SNR" 6006LLUC3
Lock ring"KOYO" CO6RING

The best seals for this application should be made from "Viton". They are brown in colour.

Incidentally, to remove the lock ring it is usually done with good cold chisel and anvil. The ring is cut almost through which reduces its tension and it is pressed off without heat. This requires a new lock ring which should be done as opposed to re-using the original one in any case.
The fitting of the new lock ring is usually heated and once this is done it slips on easily and just pressed fully home. ( sort of the reverse of your procedure).

If you have the transmission out as I see that you do, given the age of it and once again a minimum cost against the nuisance of oil leaks, the front seals on the box should also be replaced at this time.

When you say you have changed the transmission mounts, I take it that this included the rear suspension mounts as well?

I do sympathise with the cost blowouts. These projects always, always wind up costing more that one initially expects. We all fall victims to the  "oh, while you are there.." syndrome and cringe at the bank statement later.   

[Divano Veloce]

Very happy with sound advice. And that's great info on the bearings and retainers!

I did ask for some info before I did this work and got no response...... fortunately the process is well described in the workshop manual.

If you use a cold chisel to remove the retaining nut i can understand why you'd replace the bearing; there is no way to know if you've done damage to the bearing. Its a slow and brutal approach when compared to using a bearing separator, press and heat. It also sacrifices a reuseable part.

Although brinelling is unlikely when pressing off a transition fit, replacing the bearings is ok advice but why replace the retainers if removed as i did?

[MD]

Divano,

Mate let's not make a Ben-Hur novel out of this small job. I have provided you with the basis of accepted workshop practices in the service of these components. Feel free to use the advice or modify it according to your beliefs. However let's be clear on this. If you believe that using a cold chisel will damage the bearing then simply you do not know how to use a cold chisel in this application. Your assumption is completely wrong.

Finally ( from my viewpoint) fitting a new retaining ring maintains the  security tension on the output shaft bearing assembly as originally prescribed. Pure and simple.

[Divano Veloce]

MD I don't know you, but you seem like a well intended guy. Maybe don't get upset if your authority on a subject is questioned. To be honest I would not follow any of your advice if I was to do his particular task again but that does not mean your input is not welcome.

[Divano Veloce]

Finally got the car back together and running. An unexpected challenge was finding the ignition key. The car came with only one, and a pair of keys to suit the petrol cap (which i could find..). So instead of finding the single ignition key i pulled the ignition barrel out and shifted some tumblers about so that the petrol cap keys now suit the ignition. Win win!


It was a massive relief that the vibration was gone, the car feels much better to drive, the motor has loads of torque and revs really nicely. For a 25 year old sedan with an old 8v motor its surprisingly quick. I just need to re-adjust and re-bleed the rear calipers until i have a decent pedal. So its time for the Berlina to go up on blocks.....