75 clutch master seal kit - where to get?

[Divano Veloce]

Clutch master is leaking onto the carpet... where sells seal kits for these?

[GTVeloce]

I'm certain Mauceri Motors sells seal kits but I'm sure most of the other good Alfa mechanics have them as well. Maybe worth pulling the old one out first and checking the rest of the MC is in good condition. Worth considering that a brand new MC is not that expensive.

Good luck getting the old one out and the new/reco'd one in... I withdrew the steering column to allow space for my hand and tools.

[ARQ164 Shane]

Power Brakes  in gill plains in Adelaide they will post out to our home address

https://www.powerbrakes.com.au/

[Mick A]

Monza motors in Bayswater. 9720 4442 they have the correct kits.
You should hone the cylinder out first to check for corrosion and make sure it doesn't need re sleeving

Mick.

[TimD]

I would suggest finding a 6mm allen key socket with a ball head. I just replaced my clutch master and it would have been much harder without this tool.

If you have not done this before, it is not easy but it is possible. Shout out if you want a run down of how I tackled the job.

[Divano Veloce]

It looks like a fun job... Is it possible to remove the piston without removing the MC?

[Mick A]

No.

[Mick A]

I would also strongly suggest not to use the ball end hex for the initial cracking of the cap screw. If you round out the hex on the bolt, you are very fucked.

Use a good quality 3/8 6mm hex socket, with a long extension, and give it a whack with a rubber mallet or something similar to shock the thread of the bolt before trying to undo it.

[TimD]

I agree that if you rounded it you would be boned, but I could not figure out how to get a straight shot at the bolt.

Mine were not too tight so it worked out for me.

[GTVeloce]

Part of the problem is access to get a hand anywhere near the area. It is worse on the 75 than an alfetta as the 75 has the water heater tap on the drivers side whereas on the alfetta it is on the passengers side. I know it sounds crazy but removing the steering column made life much easier for me. It is not as hard as it sounds; a bolt at the bottom where it attaches to the intermediate section, the pinch bolt, the plastic surround and a few electrical connectors. No need to remove the wheel. Just make sure your wheels and steering wheel are centred and then put it back on exactly the same spline. There aren't many splines so you will know for sure so long as you centred before you pulled.

Also, many tools help. I used a different tool to crack the nut than I did to just run it on/off.

Sometimes I wonder whether it would be easier to just remove the whole pedal box but then I remember how much fun it is trying to get the brake cross bar to fit and align.

[Mick A]

I've done more than I can count on both hands over the years, yeah the 75 is a pain in the arse I agree, there is too much shit in the way.

Another tip, put plenty of copper grease on the bolts before you re-install them. That way at least you know they will come out again in another 10 years time.



Mick.

[Neil Choi]

For the sake of 4 bolts, pull the front seat out so you can lie down comfortably while wrestling to get at the MC bolts.

[festy]

Years ago I cut down an allen key and welded it to the end of a ~400mm long 1/4" square rod to make this less painful.
It *just* fits in the gap between the steering column and dash (on the 116 coupes at least) and saves having to turn yourself upside down and inside out.

[Mick A]

Years ago I cut down an allen key and welded it to the end of a ~400mm long 1/4" square rod to make this less painful.
It *just* fits in the gap between the steering column and dash (on the 116 coupes at least) and saves having to turn yourself upside down and inside out.

Then it won't work on a 75.

[Divano Veloce]

kit k7912x
secondary seal p4664
primary seal p5771

all pbr part no.s