GTA clutch replacement quote

[Kryptonian]

Hi everyone

First time poster here so thanks for having me.

Question is pretty straightforward....

How much should I expect to pay for a 156 GTA clutch replacement, parts & labour?

Been quoted $3000 which is a bit of a shock to the system....I know it's a big job but 3k?

I'm in Melbourne if that helps.

Many thanks in advance,

[bazzbazz]

Well one of the VERY capable guys over at the AusAlfa site has just done his on his 156 and its just a 1.9JTD, have a look at the fun & games he had, a 3.2 would only be more difficult.

http://www.ausalfa.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=11495&start=15

Baz

[jorritkooistra]

Its just a lot if work, thats the issue. And being a gta it would have a duall mass flywheel. Which is very expensive. But 3000$ is quite a lot.

Sent from my Agora 4G using Tapatalk

[gtv19]

Good luck with your beautiful little Alfa. My experience has taught that the initial problem may lead to others (while you are down there). My suggestion ensure that the quoter has the correct experience to do the work. Suggest you contact one of the AROCA VIC advertisers/supporters for your best outcome.

Cheers,

Laurie

[Craig_m67]

Its just a lot if work, thats the issue. And being a gta it would have a duall mass flywheel. Which is very expensive. But 3000$ is quite a lot.

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I'd be surprised if the $3,000/ quote includes the DMF (does the GTA use a DMF?)
The OP should check what parts are being used (original, OEM, etc..)!
Its a big job for anybody, let alone an organised and competent workshop.
I had (realistic) labour quotes from 8-12 hours, @120./hr... Adds up.

For what it's worth (I'm the JTD guy Bazz mentioned), I bought an original Alfa clutch kit, Dual mass flywheel and clutch slave cylinder (plus some wheel bearings for a seperate project) from shop4parts in the UK (along with EB they're my favourite for 156 parts).  Delivered in three days all up $1,012.  The GTA clutch is essentially the same price and kit (friction plate is slightly different, the GTA clutch is an upgrade path for the JTD if you go solid flywheel).

As above, I obtained prices from two local indies to remove and replace, both quoted about 8-12 hours, pending stuck/nasty bolts etc. they were happy to fit my parts but would (quite reasonably) only warrant labour (correct installation). 

I decided to do it myself as; I can (I've done clutches before), I had the time and I enjoy the challenge. If I was time constrained I would have paid to get it done. It's just a clutch, there's nothing complicated about it, you just need to remove lots of other systems to get to it.  That said it was a long job and would have been a lot easier with two people to help manhandle the bigger items (gearbox, subframe, etc.). In the end my clutch (newish) and DMF (original 200K/km) were fine, it was the release bearing that had broken. I'm a big believer in replacing systems and preventative maintenance though so replaced it all while I was in there.

Couple of questions for the OP

1. What's actually wrong with the clutch ? (Mileage/age/symptoms) ?
2. Does your gearbox have a Q2 fitted ?
3. Any leaks or noises from your CV joints?
4. When was the front suspension last removed/refurbished ?
5. How long since or until the cambelt/water pump etc are due for change ?
6. Ever had any issues with your alternator and or steering rack ?

I only mention these as all (excl. 6) are consumable items that you should consider replacing (preventative maintenance) if you're paying somebody else to do the job as they can be done at the same time saving you labor costs (as the car is already disassembled) and personal downtime later.

..... It's easily a $3k job if done properly

<snip>..... and its just a 1.9JTD... <snip>

Baz

Pffft... How rude, the JTD is a torque monster!! 

[Kryptonian]

Hey guys,  cheers for the prompt replies,...much appreciated.

Craig, to answer your questions,

1. It's done a bit over 100,000km, the clutch itself has had its "feel" change over a period of 9 myths or so. Sometimes felt heavier,  other times like it was 'gritty' or something. .like it was pushing through something crunchy.

Now though, funnily enough, it feels fine. But I'm having issues shifting into reverse,  like something is blocking it. On cold startup it's fine,  but when the engine is hot after driving in stop start traffic for a while it just doesn't want to go into reverse. Usually I shift into 4th and then try reverse again, and that works 60% of the time,  but others i have to spend like a full minute getting it into reverse. Not ideal for a busy car park.

I've also noticed that the shift from 2nd to 3rd sometimes feels a bit 'crunchy'...not grinding, but just not completely clean. And first gear is a bit difficult too sometimes. Not clean and a bit stiff at times.

2. Gearbox has a Q2.

3. Some noise under braking but not sure if that's cv joints.

4. Suspension is fairly new and in good nick.

5. Cambelt and water pump were done a couple years ago, metal impeller.

6.don't think there's anything wrong with the alternator,  though on startup from cold there's often a static, scratchy sound

Hope that helps.

Cheers all

[Craig_m67]

Could be as simple as the clutch fork bushes needing lubrication. The fork is pushed by the slave cylinder and acts on the release bearing. If it doesn't move freely and smoothly the pedal feel changes (stiffer).  I'd be inclined to drop or spray a little bit of penetrating fluid/oil down into the top bush and see what happens. The fork is well back from the friction plate, itself behind the pressure plate but don't go mad with the oil.

Difficult gear changes could also be as simple as low or old gearbox oil. Check it and replace.

Unless the clutch is slipping, burning or making horrible noises, I'd leave it well alone.  Both are far cheaper starting points than ripping out what could be a good clutch.

[Evan Bottcher]

Unless the clutch is slipping, burning or making horrible noises, I'd leave it well alone.  Both are far cheaper starting points than ripping out what could be a good clutch.

Diagnosing faults remotely over the Internet is a fools errand at best, and dangerous at worst.  Get someone who's very familiar with these cars to drive it, and listen to their advice.

Here's my opinion:  Take the car to get a second opinion from another independent Alfa specialist.  Ask for both a likely and worst-case estimate $$.  Ring a couple more specialists to compare prices if you want confidence.

Alfa Men, Monza Motors, Mauceri Motors, Il Bolide Rosso, Maranello Pur-Sang, Alfa Donnini - all club supporters and with good reputation in Melbourne.

[Craig_m67]

Unless the clutch is slipping, burning or making horrible noises, I'd leave it well alone.  Both are far cheaper starting points than ripping out what could be a good clutch.

Diagnosing faults remotely over the Internet is a fools errand at best, and dangerous at worst.  Get someone who's very familiar with these cars to drive it, and listen to their advice.

...  a fool you say, cheers

What's the point of the technical section of the forum again? 

For what it's worth the V6 and the JTD use very similar clutch/fork arrangement.

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-andamp-gt/210617-gt-jtd-stiff-clutch.html


Plenty of other fools on the internet discussing it

[Mick A]

A 100,000km old clutch is certainly not going to be a good clutch still Craig, that is a certainty.

On the V6's, a heavy clutch is the first sign of an ageing clutch, it doesn't necessarily mean it is about to pack it in, but it does mean that it is old, the springs in the pressure plate are worn, the fingers on the pressure plate are also most likely worn out, and the friction plate will be worn. Lubrication will also be an issue as the grease on the guide and fork and fork bushes will have dried out a bit. Sometimes the guide get's wear too so the thrust bearing has a little play and binds up.

Once it is hard to find 1st and Reverse gears, it means the clutch isn't operating 100%, as it isn't at zero clutch disc speed, it is probably 200/400rpm so that is why gear changes are difficult sometimes.

I see this all the time with cars I work on, the owner drives the car all the time so they don't notice the gradual change in the pedals weight, and when I service the car and inform them they are amazed the didn't notice it earlier, as sometimes we've had a GTA or V6 with a fresher clutch so I show them the difference and they can't believe how light the pedal is.

Swap the clutch, and you won't believe that you put up with such a heavy clutch for so long.

Mick.

[Stuart Thomson]

Have to agree with Mick on this one.

I have two GTAs, one with a new clutch, one with the original 140k clutch.  The old one is really heavy by comparison and you don't notice it when you drive it every day.

And 3k is a reasonable price, it's a lot of work.

Cheers
Stuart

[Kryptonian]

Thanks guys, again much appreciated.

Tell me, while the gearbox and various other components are out, is there anything else that is worth doing to save on potential future costs? Like the timing belt?

Also, how much can be saved from buying the clutch online? Does anyone have experience with EB spares, in terms of reliability and their parts being genuine alfa parts?

Cheers!

[Kryptonian]

Another thought....is it worth getting the gearbox looked at while it's out? Would it be crazy money to get it refurbished? Just worried about the possibility of damage there due to the deteriorating clutch...

[Alfa156Melb1]

Mick and Evan are right - I had my GTA clutched replaced last year and it was chalk and cheese - so much lighter..

And it was less than 1400 parts and labour... I also had a Q2 fitted and a few other things so I can't tell you exactly what it was.. but $3000?  thats ridiculous.

If I were you, call Monza if you're on the east side.. Marenello if you're in the middle, or Alfamen if you're on the west side... I went to Alfamen - and they did a great job.