Fuel for 83 Sud Ti QV?

[Bourney]

Hi,

I bought a Sud Ti QV a few months ago and with a mate have dismantled it (engine and interior).

We have taken the head off the engine and it looks very good.Which brings me to whether I should do anything about the valve seats.

Do I need to do anything?
I have been told to use PULP and then every 4th fill use additive - can some owners confirm what they do/what works?

Appreciate your advice.

Apologies if this is a stupid question (this is my first post!)

Regards David

[colcol]

Congratulations on such a great car, David, my favourite Alfa Romeo.
The valves and valve seats are hardened and should be ok, as the seats pressed into the heads are hardened, i have not had any problems with my 105 horse power 33 engine running unleaded.
While it is out, you may wish to recut the valve seats and regrind the valve seats to ensure they are not leaking.
I always use Premium Unleaded 98 in my 33, as i have advanced the timing to where it just pings lightly going up a hill in top gear, this ensures i have maximum advance and its not running retarded, which will cause overheating.
Down here in Victoria the price of fuel is up and down like a brides nighty, so i buy 98 when its low, as its the same price as 91 when they have jacked up the price 20 cents for the weekend, enjoy your car David, Colin.

[Bourney]

Hi Col,

Thanks for your advice and kind words. I have always loved this model. Its my 2nd Alfa. I bought a 1984 2L GTV with 60,000k in 1988 after taking out a loan. Unfortunately it was not a good car with rust, head gasket and 2nd gear synchro issues appearing over the course of the year I owned I! I moved it on for a Peugeot 205 GTI which was a fantastic car.

Fortunately this car is looking good (so far)! After a very frosty reception from my wife when I came home with it, I have had a lot of fun working on my car with a good friend who fortunately has some mechanical skills (unlike me). I look forward to getting it on the road in 2-3 months. The plan is to replace the clutch, service the brakes and carbies and replace the consumables, etc. I then plan to drive it once or twice a week for fun.

Attached are a few pics.

Regards David

[Sportscar Nut]

As Col advised, just use 98 RON fuel - I have for many years without a problem. Good luck with the car, you will have a lot of fun as they are so much fun to drive.

Paul

[Bourney]

Thanks Paul. I am really looking forward to taking the Sud out on the weekend. The car has so much character. I love the sound, the look and the handling.

You have a fantastic collection of cars. What is your favourite?

Any tips for set up for the Sud such as suspension?

Regards David

[colcol]

The Suds is a very good handling car, so if it is for a road car, just leave it alone.
The Sud/33 body is not overly strong, as it was built in the days of expensive fuel and a fuel crisis, so they were built as light as possible, as there was no fuel injection until 1987.
Putting heavier rated springs, dampers and bushes transfers a lot more energy onto the body, causing stress and resulting in cracking, have a look on your Sud chassis rail at the front, where the drive shaft passes under the rail and if the rail isn't cracked, then congatulations, it the only uncracked one in Australia.
Make sure that the steering rack isn't seized up, ours was seized up in 1986 after being 2 years old, they fill up with water and rust up, jack up the front of the car and see if the wheel turns easy without too much effort or noise.
Check all the suspension bushes for cracking and full integrity and replace if neccesary, i got new bushes for mine at Italian Automotive Spares, so they are still available.
Look for leaking dampers, the original Spica brand used to last about 3 weeks before running out of oil, but good brands like Koni are a lot better, but even Koni leak after a while, look for road dirt stuck to the oil trail around the dampers.
Being light weight suspension, if you hit a matchstick, it will bend something, so check wheel alignment at an Alfa Specialist, who knows these cars, if it is a bit off, then it will handle like a shopping cart with 3 wheels, but if you clobber a kerb or something, the steering wheel will be off centre, and you will know, Colin.

[Bourney]

Thanks Colin, I will leave the suspension well alone, apart from replacing bushes and dampers if required.
Regards David

[Sportscar Nut]

Col is spot on with advice re replace all suspension rubbers/ bushes done and they are not expensive. I have never had a problem though with chassis rails cracking but did have small cracks on the inner guards where drive shafts pass through. Easy fix 20 years back with a solid plates welded over the 1cm cracks. This is caused by the torque steer which can be greatly reduced with a few suspension mods such as stiffened Koni sport/ lowered subframe & engine bringing control arms far lower to reduce torque steer etc.

Re favourite car - they are all individual and enjoyable sportscars to drive. Do respect a 911 Turbo. Drove a mates 930 the other week and boy it went off like a canon at 4300RPM.

Cheers
Paul

[colcol]

You have to weld up the existing cracks and put a plate over the cracked rail, the same thickness as the rail, as if you make it too strong, it will just crack somewhere else, the plate that goes over the rail needs to be just welded in a few places, to spread the load around.
I believe it is a weak spot, for an accident for the car to crumple in an accident.
Have heard of a few subframes breaking off, resulting in the car coming to grief, something to keep an eye on, Colin.