Jobs on 75 TSpark - Engine Mounts

[shane wescott]

Hi Guys

Just thought I would share some insight gained from skinned knuckles and the uttering of many profanities, on how to replace the passenger side engine mount.

Short version.

1. Be careful - engines are heavy, fingers are fragile. Check for prickles in your work area and remove them.

2. Use a curvy 13mm spanner on the bottom nut on the body side, the other nuts/bolt are relatively easy.

3. JAck the engine and when putting the new mount in, screw in the bolt first while making sure the slot in the mount is above the stud on the body side.

4. Use your curvy spanner again to do up the last nut.

Time for a coffee.

Long Version.

Part of the life of an Alfisti is the love of working on cars designed by people who never have to repair them. While there are certainly some parts which offer "ease of maintenance" engine mounts certainly don't fall in that category.

I have a 75, my current "summer project", just fixing it up as I get time so it can be my Daily Driver and something for the Wife to drive on Alfa events.

Todays job was engine mounts. A quick look at Drivers side V Passenger side told me I should tackle the Passenger side first, get the easy one done before you tackle the hard one.

A browse of the web didn't glean any gems of wisdom so in we go.

The first thing you notice is the engine mount is not designed to be removed unless you have the exhaust removed first - bugger. The second thing you notice (if the exhaust is still on) is how big your hands really are - bugger again.

All up there is 4 nuts and 1 bolt holding the mount in. A bolt and a nut on the body side and three nuts on the engine side. All are 13mm. I jacked the motor for support and attacked the bolt, easy access no probs.

**** Note - engines are heavy, fingers are fragile - be careful ***

The middle of the three nuts on the engine, socket goes straight on, the right hand nut is also easy access. The left nut on the engine is a bit of a pain to get too, but by sliding under the car a little, not too bad to access with a spanner.

That's when I realised another golden rule of working on cars on the backyard, check for prickles and thistle bushes first - oWWWW. I was so intent on getting to the nut i neglected to see the spiky weed, and now I had an ear full of spikes - great.

That was the first time that day the new neighbors opened their curtains after a loud profanity. The're probably used to it by now, after all they put up with a couple of weekends of verbal Alfa abuse when I was replacing the water pump on the GTV6.

Now the lower nut on the body side - what a mongrel !! Unless you have a trained spider monkey around, or your hands are so small you have to buy gloves in the kids department (like a work colleague of mine) it's a challenging job.

Eventually, and I do mean eventually, I was able to get it loose with one of those curvy spanners that live at the bottom of your toolbox.

A bit higher on the jack and the old mount is off. Very much worse for wear and definatly in need of changing.

New mount in place, and a number of attemts at raise - lower - raise -lower to see if it falls into place. Can't get the stud or the bolt hole lined up on the body side - a couple more expletives

Then an idea, tilt the mount and apply pressure until the bolt hole is aligned and the slot is over the stud. Screw the bolt part of the way in and lower slowly making sure the mounts slips over the stud. Run the nuts down, and get out that trusty curvy spanner again.

Eventually, again really eventually, the last nut is tight and the new mount is in.

Another quick look at the drivers side mount convinces me it is definately a tomorrow job :-)

Catch ya

Shane

[shane wescott]

Today was the turn for the Drivers side mount. This looked like the more chalenging side but thankfully access to (most) nuts and bolts was o.k.

Short version

1. Be careful with jacks, and spiky plants.

2. Take off the air cleaner and the strut under the inlet manifold.

3. take the bracket off the back end of the starter.

4. remove all the bolts and  nuts, give it a jack and the mount is off.

5. With the new mount remember bolt on the body side first, then the other nuts.

6. Starter bracket after the mount nuts, and then the strut.

Long version.

There are six nuts/bolts on this side, not five like the other side. Two for the body side, again a bolt and a nut, three into the engine and another bolt which holds the rear mount for the starter motor.

Now as you are going to be near the starter etc, good idea to disconnect the battery. Stops those annoying sparks and expletives coming out.

Start by clearing some room, remove the aircleaner box, disconnect the cable from this (watch that wire clip).

My recommendation is to remove the strut supporting the inlet manifold bits and pieces. One 17mm bolt on the engine mount, two 17mm bolts, and a pain in the butt to get too 13mm bolt up the top between the inlet pots. There is an earth wire on one of the 17mm bolts so dont forget to reconnect that.

Watch out for wires around the starter area. Uncliping them in advance is a good plan. I didn't and I now have a wire, but don't know where it came from :-( It is out of the same lume as the starter control wire but not sure where it goes *** Any ideas would be appreciated**

Next you should probably take off the Starter bracket, this gives you much better access for the left nut on the engine side.

Take the weight of the engine with a jack **careful**, take all the nuts and bolts off the mount and you should then be able to jack up the engine high enough to remove the old mount.

Mine looked old but not drastically worn, but seeing I replaced the other side, good idea to do both.

New mount in and using the body side bolt to align everything, it slipped in pretty easily. Attach all the nuts before you put the starter mount bracket back on.

The strut is a bit of a pain to get back on. Start with the bolt attaching it to the engine mount first, and then the top 13mm bolt. Finally I found a use for a set on uni sockets. The socket itself is a universal so good for pain in the butt access areas.

Thats about it, apart from my spare wire all looks good. Next tasks are rear discs, pads and rear gearbox mounts (yuk).

Catch ya

Shane

[alfagtv58]

Love your work Shane.

And - just so you know, when working on Alfas your tool kit need only consist of three tools, 1 x 13mm combination spanner, 1 x can WD40 (if it doesn't move and should, use this), 1 x roll race tape (if it moves and shouldn't, use this).  And one more less tangible item, a considerable amount of patience.

[shane wescott]

Yes the old Gaffer tape - love it.

I have come to the conclusion that it is the porblem solving that keeps me working on Alfas. Your first look at the job has you saying "How the F%^& do I get to the Nut/bolt/spring/wobbly bit/broken wire"

And it is then, as you say, patience, and some inventive creative use of tools that lets you enjoy driving again.

CAtch ya

Shane