TS whine with replaced belt - belt tension?

[mpwdhc]

hello,

i've just replaced the timing belts and tensioners on an 02 spider.

* i used the cam locks
* i tensioned the main belt so the finger points to the hole above the locating peg
* the tension tool required a metal blade/spacer between the tool and tensioner to get the finger to move up that far
* i set the balance shaft tensioner so the rotating notch sits in the middle of the fixed notch

on start up, there is a whine which sounds like an over tensioned belt.

removed acc belt to check - no change. removed cover to recheck tension - ok.

the car had been sitting so long, apparently with its original belt and tensioners, that i didn't really run it long enough to take note of sounds, prior to disassembly.

is a belt type whine par for the course with these, or have i missed something?


thanks
davide

[bazzbazz]

When replacing the Timing Belt did you -

A/ Loosen both inlet & exhaust camshaft Pullies, rotate them to the right BEFORE fitting the new belt in the
    following order - starting with the Crankshaft pulley then the Idler pulley, exhaust pulley, inlet pulley, Tensioner then
    water pump, AND ensuring the timing marks on the belts match up on crankshaft pulley and the exhaust camshaft
    Pulley?
B/ Then set the Tensioner to MAXIMUM tension, then tighten both camshaft pullies
C/ Then rotate the belt 2 full rotations back to TDC and THEN set the tensioner to point to the hole

These procedures MUST be done or the belt tension is all screwed up.

Baz

[mpwdhc]

hi Baz,

thank you for the reply.

i fitted the cam locks and loosened the pullies. i made sure there was plenty of available movement to take up the belt slack. i fitted the belt (cant remember which order), set the tensioner to the locating peg, which, with the tool, seemed to be maximum tension.

perhaps the key will be to set the tensioner to maximum with a screw driver or similar. i'll give it a go tomorrow.

by turn the pullies to the right, do you mean clockwise?



thanks again!

[bazzbazz]

Yes, pullies rotated clockwise.

Ok, the FINAL set point is to the HOLE, not the locating peg.

Setting to maximum tension has the pointer as far above the hole as possible.
Then rotate 2 full revolutions and the retention the pointer down to the hole.

If your final set point is to the locating peg then the belt tension is too loose.

Just to check something, did you just replace JUST the belt, or did you also replace the Tensioner as well as the Idler pulley?

Baz

[mpwdhc]

thank you. i set the initial tension to the peg, as i seem to recall reading in a how to guide. i then tensioned it up to the hole.

at this point do you think it will be necessary to loosen the cams again, or do you think i can get away with max tension, rotation, then setting to the hole?

[Mick A]

Who knows.. we didn't do the job. Take it to a mechanic who knows what they are doing.

[bazzbazz]

Mick's advice may sound a little harsh, but it's only because he knows what happens if you don't know what your doing in this area and has seen the unpleasant results time and time again if you screw up the slightest .

And in this case, he may be right. Why do I say that? Put it this way, when putting the new belt on did you make sure that you had the special timing marks on the belt line up with the timing marks on the crank shaft pulley and exhaust camshaft pulley?   

If your reply is "No", or "Huh" or as 90% of most people will say, "What special timing marks?" then you might want to take Micks advice.   

(please one and all, take this post with the good intensions and humour intended)   

Check Six

Baz