Best Alfetta GTV(6) chassis?

[GTVeloce]

Ok, I know there is an element of personal preference here that clouds judgement but I am curious about which chassis to start with as a base. Not interested in what each came with (i.e. gear ratios, badges etc) because for my purposes it will be largely irrelevant. I am also only interested in Aus delivered cars. Differences I am aware of so far
Chrome Bumper                  Early plastic                       Late plastic
Grill shape heart                  Straight grill                      Straight grill
Body integrated lights          Bumper integrated lights    Bumper integrated lights
Front valance                      Different front valance        As per early plastic
Metal stamped rear air vent  Plastic air vent trim            As per early plastic
Metal air inlet                      Plastic air inlet trim            As per early plastic
Long torsion bars                 Long torsion bars               Short torsion bars
Engine battery                     Boot battery (some/all?)     Boot battery
Non-isostatic body               Non-isostatic body            Isostatic body

Not concerned about brake or suspension differences however I believe the front and rear engine mounts were different for the GTV6 compared to all the four cars. Driveline? Any structural differences? I know the four and sixes used different driveshafts but what is stopping someone fitting a GTV6 shaft into a chrome bumpered car or vice-versa for example? Again, interior and electrical differences are of no concern unless they were structural. Sunroofs? Did all late GTV6's come with them? And some/all late fours?

Was there any difference in terms of quality/thickness of steel used? Any difference in rust potential? I don't believe any of them were galvanised at the factory.

The GTV6's used a larger boot mounted petrol tank while the fours had a smaller under-boot tank. And some difference to accommodate a larger radiator.

If you have a preference can you please substantiate why.

[GTVeloce]

Thought of another difference this morning; the body is different to accommodate isostatic linkages.

[aggie57]

What's your objective?  A base for what?

[carlo rossi]

I believe the post 1983 build have zinc coated bodies
and the iso mod

[john m]

Posted by: carlo rossi
« on: Today at 06:40:16 PM » Insert Quote
I believe the post 1983 build have zinc coated bodies
and the iso mod

Iso and short torsion bars came in with the 1985 models.

[GTVeloce]

Thanks for the responses.

I believe the post 1983 build have zinc coated bodies

Can anyone confirm this? I wasn't aware of this but it is an important difference.

The rear lights and dash are different but I believe that is just 'trim'. In that you could put a split dash into single dash car or vice-versa and other than some wires not aligning it should work. Like wise, you can put the old style lights on to a plastic bumper car with out any issues. Unless someone can tell me otherwise?

There are many variations gt GTV AND GTV6 but there was only two chassis the long torsion original from 74 to 84-5 and the short torsion bar alfa75 chassis 85 and 86 the last two years of the gtv were short chassis[100 mm shorter] alfa75 chassis

Essentially yes, but there are other minor differences (front valance, radiator support etc) and I would like to confirm these.

What's your objective?  A base for what?

Ok, I am looking at a new project and want to stay with a 116 GT(V)(6). I don't want to give too much away but am leaning towards a 70's silver bumper GTV exterior look but with much later internals and mechanicals and a Busso  So I am trying to work out were to start from as all will require some modification work but would like to minimise unnecessary work and have the best possible finished product. Hence I would be very curious to hear if others can confirm if the later cars were zinc dipped.

[Jekyll and Hyde]

Ok, I am looking at a new project and want to stay with a 116 GT(V)(6). I don't want to give too much away but am leaning towards a 70's silver bumper GTV exterior look but with much later internals and mechanicals and a Busso  So I am trying to work out were to start from as all will require some modification work but would like to minimise unnecessary work and have the best possible finished product. Hence I would be very curious to hear if others can confirm if the later cars were zinc dipped.

If your project involves horsepower and/or track work, you'd be better with a long torsion bar body.  They are stronger in the centre due to the welded in 'bridge' joining both chassis rails (just in front of the cast bridge that retains the rear of the torsion bars), where the later short bar cars had a removable crossmember in that location.  The later cars have been known to crack the floor/driveshaft tunnel in this area when used on the track, which doesn't appear to occur on long bar cars.

[carlo rossi]

Ok i have a 83 june build or april 84 deliver
I have Isostaic gear change and have been told by the guy who resprayed my
car that it had been dipped
so was the change mid 84 deliver or 84 build ??
ill check crossmember

[aggie57]

What's your objective?  A base for what?

Ok, I am looking at a new project and want to stay with a 116 GT(V)(6). I don't want to give too much away but am leaning towards a 70's silver bumper GTV exterior look but with much later internals and mechanicals and a Busso  So I am trying to work out were to start from as all will require some modification work but would like to minimise unnecessary work and have the best possible finished product. Hence I would be very curious to hear if others can confirm if the later cars were zinc dipped.
[/quote]

OK. Basically there are three series. There's the steel number cars, then there's the early plastic bumper cars which looked different and had different front and rear body work, then there are the late plastic bumper cars with the same body work as the early plastic ones but 75 derived chassis.

I've never heard of a late car cracking around the cross member and that would be my preference simple because access underneath is vastly better with that removable section. When did they change over?  I had an October 84 car, late chassis. My mate had a September '84 car, early chassis. Maybe earlier or later but they were the built plate dates on relatively new cars.

Several people have done what you're suggesting. Do a search in the BB.  You do need to change the rear and the front valance and of course US cars are always different there compared to ROW. Otherwise I'd start with a GTV6 and do the bodywork.

[GTVeloce]

Thanks guys.

I spoke with a very reputable eastern suburbs painter (painted my other GTV) and he confirmed that the later cars were zinc coated although he believes they are often rusty regardless. He couldn't confirm exactly when they started the practice.

I can see your plan and I think the chrome bumper cars look good but please don't put a gtv6 bonnet on a chrome bumper chassis

My plan is to NOT use a GTV6 bonnet i.e. power bulge. I love the smooth lines of the fours bonnet and wish to retain that. I have seen others achieve it so I know it can be done.

The GTV I am currently chopping up (whose parts I will be re-using where possible/worthwhile) was an 83 with long bars and I was hopeful of re-using them (28mm) but I am leaning towards a later GTV6 shell and will modify the body to suit my desires.

If your project involves horsepower and/or track work, you'd be better with a long torsion bar body.  They are stronger in the centre due to the welded in 'bridge' joining both chassis rails (just in front of the cast bridge that retains the rear of the torsion bars), where the later short bar cars had a removable crossmember in that location.  The later cars have been known to crack the floor/driveshaft tunnel in this area when used on the track, which doesn't appear to occur on long bar cars.

I am not looking at a horsepower monster or track dedicated car. Fast street only. Looking at a modified 2.5 V6 but nothing too crazy.

Peter, if you are reading this, it's all your fault. I was perfectly happy with the TS (although contemplating a small supercharger...) until I drove your GTV6. Oh, the sound!

I promise I will document the build once I get started in ernest. For now I am just stockpiling parts and researching/searching. Please keep any other useful info re chassis's coming.

[ACE]

Yes! And I am watching with a lot of interest :-)
Good luck, I'm sure it's going to be even more special than the last.
Hope to get a go in the next one too sometime ;-)

[alfa duk]

 Any of the plastic bumper models are a vast improvement in the body corrosion department.
As a rule, if it is out in the elements then walk away doesnt matter how good it looks.
For your project, a GTV6 is the best option, you dont have to modify any of the mechanics. If you have an early body there is the tunnel/ tailshaft and engine mounts to address and the more I think about it the bigger financially it becomes, driveshafts, tophat extensions, driveshaft bolts, radiator. There are so many combinations of components spaning from the alfetta GT to the last of the 75s that will fit provided you have everything from that particular car, BUT if you get bits from here and there its going to be a long project