Fuel filter spider

[bazzbazz]

If disconnecting the MAF doesn't allude to anything just take it to the nearest mech who is an Alfa Specialist, and I bet within an hour he'll have found the problem . . . . Mick, you nearby, Alfamen. . . anyone?

Baz

[The Count]

Sitrep and update...
Have been away for a few days but now have time to investigate further.
Will get in and replace spark plugs as my guess is this has not been done since new.
Will also check coil packs at same time.
Will disconnect and inspect MAF sensor, clean if necessary and order replacement if necessary.
Disconnect neg battery while working to reset ECU when work complete.
Anyone interested in photo documenting this?
Will post updates as work progresses.
Nick
PS... Anyone recommend an OBD connector and software for Alfa? Might be very worth while to have on hand for the future.

[bazzbazz]

Don't forget to check the main gearbox earth has been re-attached. Just that you mentioned all was well before car went in for gearbox service. I just don't believe in co-incidences.

Baz

[The Count]

Baz.
Should that earth strap be very visible (stand out like the proverbial dogs *****) or is it in some mysterious location?
Clues please as its not obvious from a cursory check?
If not in place can I fit aftermarket strap from local spares joint and if so where should I attach?

[The Count]

Update as of 7.00 am 17/11
Yesterday got in and replaced all spark plugs (some rust on No1 cylinder plugs and the usual oil residue in some plug housings).
Also replaced No1 cylinder coil pack  as older one looked a bit dodgy.
Pulled out MAF sensor and cleaned with isopropyl alcochol and allowed to dry before refitting with new hose clips.
Reset ECU following usual procedure (battery -ve off while I was doing the above work, reconnected -ve, moved ign key to MAR for 90 seconds, then off for 90 seconds with key still in, started engine and left for 20 minutes until thermo fan cut in, turned engine off and left for 15 mins with key still in)
Started and drove for around 20-30 km. Observation was that the engine was running smoothly and the acceleration was better than before but still with some lack of "pull" between 3000 and 4000 rpm. Overall as a warm running engine, an improvement over what we had before but not perfect.
This morning, a cold start (ambient temp around 12 degreesC) and still the "same old same old" with any movement of the accelerator met with coughing, spluttering and almost dying engine.
So, Houston, we still have a problem!
Baz, I checked earthing by doing a Heath Robinson workaround using jumper leads to connect engine to chassis in 2 different places at the same time with no positive result. I guess the question here is "do I now need to reset ECU with proper earth in place before I know for sure that this is an issue.
I will try this later today and see what happens.
Otherwise, it's disconnect MAF sensor with engine running and check if this is the problem but (and you may find this amusing) the MAF sensor wiring connector seems very hard to remove and I don't want to damage it. Is there a trick or some catch or clip that I haven't seen or found that releases this connector??

[bazzbazz]

Ok, to disconnect the MAF there is a little tab that you press on that pivots and lifts the other end of the tab clear of the locking pin. This becomes more difficult with age, (the cars, not yours) so get a small thin flat blade screw driver and lift up the bottom of the tag over the locking pin and pull off the connector.

As for the earthing cables, it goes from the battery earth, straight down to the left chassis frame, where it is bolted through, it then continues across to the back of the engine. Just follow it along from the battery earth making sure it is firmly attached at all points.

Baz

[The Count]

To all those who had sheep stations riding on the MAF sensor as culprit, I have bad news! Disconnecting MAF sensor has absolutely no effect whatsoever on the problem. Still farts, spits and threatens to die as soon as you apply any throttle to a cold started engine. Turn off engine and restart and it idles beautifully BUT any throttle will again cause same issue.
Will check gearbox earth today but still need some advice.... If I find earth is not connected properly, once I have fixed earth, will I need an ECU reset or not?
Nick

[Jekyll and Hyde]

Checked the air intake tube for splits?

[The Count]

Will check air hoses with soapy water method as I can see/hear no obvious air leaks.
N

[The Count]

Things that make you go Hmmmmmmm....
Set up an alternative earth to the engine from battery negative and when I disconnected battery -ve noticed (for the first time) that there is a threaded pole on the battery connector that points upwards but has nothing attached to it. Am I missing something here or just adding to my paranoia?

[The Count]

SITREP as of 1700 25/11
Today set up extra engine earths (YES PLURAL) and then did ecu reset and left engine until cold. On starting we have Groundhog Day!!!!! Still spits and coughs with any throttle from cold.
Can find no air leaks in hoses so am stumped from here on.
Took it for a good long drive anyway and noticed 2 things.
1. The spit/fart with throttle went away a little more quickly this time as engine warmed
2. When warm, engine more responsive this time. Revved quite freely with only a couple of hesitations at around 4500 rpm so this is a bit better.
Wonder if it might be an idea to drive it for a tank of fuel and see if the ecu "re-learns" and things improve.
If not...off to an Alfa expert
Nick

[bazzbazz]

May I suggest a good dose of injector Cleaner in the fuel tank and a "Spirited" weekend drive.

I mean you ARE in what must be the most incredible part of the world to go for a weekend blat !   

[The Count]

Baz... Great thought and now in action BUT as nearly everyone has pointed out, once you open Pandora's Box, the evils emerge.
Since replacing spark plugs and one coil pack I now have an air con that does not work!!!!
It seems obvious that in the process I disturbed the green wire that runs from the harness under the upper rocker cover down to the aircon compressor But I was very careful to dertach the wire at its connector clip right on top of the compressor and reattach making sure the connector was correctly slipped onto the tab on the compressor.
Have used my multimeter to check what happens on that green wire when the aircon is turned on and off and there is no voltage on it no matter whether the aircon is on or off so unless it has some other function, it would seem that there must be a break somewhere. Noticed that the black plastic shielding over the green wire was very brittle in one place and broke easily but the green wire under is SEEMS intact.
Before I go further, can someone enlighten me if I'm correct in assuming that when the aircon is switched on, the green wire goes live with 12 volts to engage the compressor clutch?
Getting ready with the large hammer as this is becoming VERY frustrating.
Nick

[poohbah]

Ah Nick, welcome to the delights of dodgy 932 series air-con. Having just replaced the  compressor bearing on my 156 I then discovered a ($2) switch in the compressor has worn out ... and can't be replaced itself, but requires the whole compressor to be replaced. What joy.

[Jekyll and Hyde]

Before I go further, can someone enlighten me if I'm correct in assuming that when the aircon is switched on, the green wire goes live with 12 volts to engage the compressor clutch?

Yes. And no.  There is also a pressure switch in the system, which will only allow 12v to be supplied if the gas pressure in the system is not to low or too high.  It is entirely possible you have a slow leak in the system, and there is no longer sufficient gas in the system to allow the compressor to be powered.  Co-incidence is an amazingly common and frustrating thing...

I don't remember off hand whether the green wire runs to the pressure switch, or whether it runs to the relay, and the pressure switch operates on the 'control' side of the relay.  I think its the latter, in which case you should be able to test continuity of said wire from one of the pins in the relay socket to the plug (on car wiring) at the compressor. Also test from the plug on the compressor itself to the aluminium body of the compressor, ensure you have some resistance through there, as would be expected from the winding of the electromagnet. Also ensure there is 12v power being supplied to the relay socket at the main power pin.