handbrake adjustment

[poohbah]

I knew who you meant Russ - my procedure is "ask the forum"!

[aggie57]

Hi guys,

This takes me back quite a few years when I used to work on these things on a daily basis. So allow me to put my 3 cents worth in... but before I do, the information already shared is gold!

The hand brake works on one brake pad within each caliper only. If the cable adjustment is out, as in too tight, then the corresponding pad adjustment will also be out, but compensated for by the cable. The next thing is that these calipers are supposed to be self adjusting. The reality is different!!! They get sticky, and do require adjustment periodically (even from new). So to start from scratch and set it up properly, slacken off the cable completely. Then adjust the calipers correctly. Use the procedure from Poohbah. FYI, we used to adjust them so the wheel would just start to have some resistance when turning, and back off a quarter of a turn. And that's for both adjusters. Then adjust the cable, making sure the wheels turn freely on the second click. At this point, any adjustment needed in future should be at the caliper. As I said, the reality is different and they don't like to self adjust. Whenever the handbrake needed adjusting at service, we ALWAYS did it at the caliper. It should take a long time for the cable to stretch but if there is constant pressure on it due to being incorrectly set up, it will stretch prematurely. FYI, this info goes for all of the inboard stuff, be it GTV, 75, 90 or Sud (albeit front).

And here is a thought to ponder over. If you were to always make the adjustments at the cable, and the calipers do not self adjust, you will have one brake pad which is close to the disc running surface, and the other which is way out. Hence the importance to set these things up correctly. It's a little bit like setting up cable disc brakes on mountain bikes. Calipers first, then the cable. I hope this helps a little.

Cheers Russ

+1

Hardly anyone who plays with these brakes acknowledges that they're designed to be self adjusting.  But when you think about it they have to be, otherwise you have no way for the handbrake to stay properly adjusted as the pads wear.  Russ is right though, the self adjustment doesn't always work but it's actually a pretty simple design, located inside each caliper piston.

I started writing up an explanation but in looking for some pictures found a couple of write ups on Alfabb (of course!):

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/milano-75-1985-1993/39059-leaking-rear-brake-question-2.html#post464538
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/suspension-steering-brakes-wheels-tires/155782-rebuilding-pesky-milano-gtv6-rear-caliper-2.html

Make sure you follow the link to PMB Performance's facebook post on rebuilding Ferrari calipers, an absolutely top shelf resource for anyone contemplating rebuilding Alfetta rear brakes. 

https://www.facebook.com/pg/PMBPerformance/photos/?tab=album&album_id=473740938192

[poohbah]

Thanks Sportiva, that is greatly appreciated. I will print out and read it properly.

Seems that this "little" job is one that is of interest to a lot of Alfetta owners!

One final question for all - do rear wheels need to be free to turn to do this? I don't have axle stands, but do have wheel ramps (usually back it onto them to get access under rear end).

[poohbah]

OK, thanks - good to know.

[Rising Sun]

Thanks for the welcome Sportiva. And yes, this has generated some great discussion. Personally, I wouldn't trust the feeler gauge method as it wouldn't account for any runout in the disc. A tight brake pad will cause heat build up and only become tighter as you travel. Best to invest in a good pair of axle stands. You'll have them for life. Supercheap have them on sale from time to time and you should be able to pick up a set for around $50.

[poohbah]

Cheers Russ, have been meaning to buy some stands for a while.

[aggie57]

Thanks Sportiva, that is greatly appreciated. I will print out and read it properly.

Seems that this "little" job is one that is of interest to a lot of Alfetta owners!

One final question for all - do rear wheels need to be free to turn to do this? I don't have axle stands, but do have wheel ramps (usually back it onto them to get access under rear end).

Yes.  The feeler gauge method is frankly bull dust.  One of those 'nice in theory' things you read about in manual.  In the real world you adjust the pads until they start to bind and back off 1/2 a turn or so.  Just like Russ said.