alternator in the 2.5L 2002

[cc]

bit of a war of wills at the  moment with the car. Doesnt want the alternater  bolted back in. its a snug exact fit and a flat steel plate that, if it lifts off the engine means the snug fitting flanges on the alternator that the  2 long bolts that fix the alt. to the engine. Interfere with the steel. See pic with .3mm feeler gauge in gap where steel is lifting.. Its this extra .3mm preventing the alt. being put on its mounts... The pressed in nut pic shows where the long bolt goes in and screws into. When the alt was being removed, once the bolts were out, the alt had to be pulled off the engine due to the snug interference fit.....

[bazzbazz]

You should be able to hammer the "pressed in nut" further to the right giving extra clearance.

Baz

[cc]

hi baz
Yes, im frightened tho of loosening it in the enclosing aluminium and it not being able to do its job when the bolt is screwed in and puts tension on it..

[bazzbazz]

File it down?

Baz

[cc]

ok. Spoke to the auto electrician who did the overhaul re having the alternator marry up to its mounting points. He advised its ok to 'love tap' the threaded steel sleeve (pressed in nut) in the alternator flange. The tap moving the sleeve out by 1/2 mm to allow the alternators flanges to slid over the mounting points on the engine. Installing and tightening the thru bolts as they thread in then pull the sleeve into their original position. I didnt tap the sleeve. Instead a G clamp a socket and a piece of flat round steel was used to press it back. See pics.
Worked fine. Then after torqueing it in place to 30Nm I realised its probably impossible to tighten the retaining nuts for the 2 cables on the back of the alternator!!!! So out it comes again... Need to get a long socket 13mm 1/4 drive or 3/8 to either attach the cables with the alternator partially in position or to do the impossible and attach the cables with deep sockets and a very restricted drive, with the alternator bolted in position. Hope I dont have to take the oil filter off...

[bazzbazz]

"If it won't fit, FORCE IT, if it breaks, eh needed replacing anyway!" - Old Mech Motto   

[cc]

Alternators back in and cables attached. : ) the smaller cable with an 8mm nut was screwed down by a 1/4 " drive ratchet and longish little socket with the alternator not bolted onto the engine, but in position with the back of the alt. half facing up. The larger cables; 13mm nut was tightened with the alternator bolted in position onto the engine. A 3/8" drive long socket was used and a long extension arm with an universal joint. Had to take the oil filter out to get access, as the filter is right up against the back of the alternator. So if also changing the filter when doing the alternator, attach the alt. cables before! the new filter is put on. To insert the upper long retaining bolt on the top alt. flange mount. The engine was jacked up about 15mm using a block of wood under the sump and the rear engine mount out. There is a recess in the steel panel that gives room to angle the bolt in from..
Be super careful here as the back of the engine isnt fixed and if its not securely and well supported (the front cross member is out). Coming off the support/jack will cause the engine to partially fall out of the car, pivoting on the 2 front mounts still in place. You dont want to be under it if it happens..

[cc]

After replacing the camshaft position sensor. The non starting was addressed! but the suss alternator effect on the engine when under full electrical load, especially when the twin radiator fans kick in on a hot day meant it wasnt useable in stop start traffic. Symptoms of the electrical issue were; no speedo, temp gauge would climb after the fans came on. Headlights flickering in time with indicator lights at night. Hand brake light on. Transmission warning light coming on and the car going to limp home mode. Once the alternator with new rectifier, brushes and skimmed commutator was in and importantly a loose earth bolt under the battery tray that was taking a couple of cables, was tightened up. (Baz baz said the flickering headlight issue identified a loose earth) The car, at least while idling in the garage was stronger.
When up to engine operating temperature 90 deg, the fans were on and everything electrical was turned on. Including the hazard lights, high beam and stereo. Happily the temp gauge stayed on 90 and didnt climb, no warning lights. The only remnant of an electrical issue was that the interior light behind the mirror would pulse with the hazard lights.

As 2 issues, the alternator and a loose earth bolt were simultaneously addressed, its not possible to say which of the 2 issues was the cause or if they were both contributing.. The alternator did need a birthday tho, the brushes worn right down and a scored commutator..

Now just need to address the coolant leak!