Bilstein B6 into a 147

[Citroënbender]

My project for the moment; got to say there are times when I long for a simple McStrut setup. Old stuff out wasn't too bad, but the little insert eye bushings supplied for the top mount - what a pain! I tried original top mounts and the Bilstein insert was loose, then a pair of KYB top mounts - these required careful drilling and reaming to fit; for added security I used the thickest Loctite on the insert bushing.

Just when I though it was coming together, I noticed one of the upper shaft circlips had somehow fallen off the front shock shaft!  How the heck could that happen?  So - compress spring again, dismantle strut  (luckily not fitted yet) refit circlip and then try to make certain it stays put as designed...  I can see Monday's roadworthy plan not being possible.

[johnl]

The little top hat thingies that come with the B6 front dampers? I have no idea why Bilstein supplies these, I can't see any purpose to them.

I fitted my front B6s without them, exactly as the OE dampers were fitted. No issues at all, it all fits together and works properly with no odd noises. I don't know if these strange and seemingly unnecessary whatsits come with the rear B6s or not, as yet I only have front Bilsteins fitted.

I don't think you'll regret fitting the B6 dampers, they are far superior to the OE fitment, at least on the front. The rear OE dampers are not nearly as bad as the front ones, but I'd still expect a big improvement with the rear B6s.

And, I'm not falling into the trap of comparing worn out OE dampers to new 'upgraded' units. When I bought the car I knew I'd be replacing the dampers all round, but the new OE spec TRWs that I fitted were barely any better than the old ones that I binned, hence the purchase of the front B6s. The new rear OE TRWs are way better than the totally clapped out old OE and a lot better than the new OE spec TRW front dampers, but still not as good as I'd like, just not bad enough to justify replacing them...

Regards,
John.

[Citroënbender]

The B6s I received, had square section circlips at the thread base, whereas the Boge (or whatever the OEM were) had the typical round section circlip.  I can see that when assembled correctly, the insert bush "captures" the square circlip more fully, rather than resting on the top shoulder as would happen with an OEM insert.  But if it's skewiff like one of mine turned out, the system is inferior to stock...

That said, it did cross my mind to swap over the round section clips!

I hope they are OK dampers, after the hassles fitting I don't want to do it again soon!  I bought the set based on recommendations of people like yourself. It was either that or Koni adjustables, and the B6s were a shade cheaper.

[johnl]

From memory (possibly faulty, it's been a few months since I fitted them), the cir-clips that came with my B6s are made from a round section wire, like the ones on the OE dampers. I'm fairly sure I used the Bilstein clips, only because they were new. I still have the supplied 'top hat' spacers somewhere in the clutter on one of my workbenches.

From direct experience the front B6s are a lot more OK than new stock rated dampers (my previous front dampers were new 'OE equivalent' TRW, not Boge which I think may be the actual OE brand). They are substantially stiffer in bump and rebound / droop than the stock rates. Having said that, while I am very pleased with them, I think they could be a tad stiffer in rebound than they are.

This is a subjective impression, and perhaps influenced by my previous car (MY91 Accord, fitted with rebound adjustable Koni Sports all round, Konis being known for a greater bias toward rebound stiffness than most other dampers). The Accord steered and handled better with the Koni rebound damping set quite stiff. If I were ever to have these (non adjustable) Bilsteins rebuilt then I think I'd ask for just a bit more stiffness in the rebound valving (and possibly regret it...?).

Yes, my B6s were significantly cheaper than any price I could find on Koni Sports. I bought the B6s from Squadra Sportiva in Germany, who had better pricing than any I could find on Ebay. Freight costs were reasonable too. In total for two front B6 + freight I paid 223.48 Euro, which is AUD$329.52 at today's exchange rate.

Regards,
John.

[Citroënbender]

Note to self: Buy the correct offset socket tools next time. Vise-grips on the outside of a socket with a 6mm hex bit wedged up the centre, got old very quickly. At least the rears were less hassle overall.

Front: 1.870.663.000
Rear: 1.860.973.000

[bazzbazz]

Buy yourself a set of offset ring spanners. 

[Craig_m67]

Note to self: Buy the correct offset socket tools next time. Vise-grips on the outside of a socket with a 6mm hex bit wedged up the centre, got old very quickly. At least the rears were less hassle overall.

Front: 1.870.663.000
Rear: 1.860.973.000

It will be worse when you try to remove the 22mm nyloc nut and the 6mm hex head in the shaft strips out like butter without any effort at all. Then you get to drill the (M14) nyloc nut off and if your lucky only have to run a die over the shaft to restore the thread.

B6's are firm, really firm, firm as fuck (in the rear of a Sportwagon)
Hope you replaced the top rear strut mounts and top hat.. 🙂

[Citroënbender]

If I needed to remove the 22mm nut, I'd be sorely tempted by the rattle gun!  New (genuine) strut mounts at the rear, the top securing discs seemed OK, in front I fitted new (KYB) hats.

Baz - found on the rear struts, the top mount counterbore diameter was too restrictive for most tools, the only thing which fitted was a 22mm wheel nut socket with the nylon sleeve taken off. What deep offset ringy have you got in your kit that works there?

[bazzbazz]

Deep Dish Offset Ring Spanner is what I use. Don't forget, some tools need to be "modified".

(IE - bent . . .beaten with a hammer . . . . )

[johnl]

Some sockets come forged with an outside hex at the ratchet end, which can be useful. My socket collection includes one to which I have arc welded a large hex nut at the ratchet end (weld heat not good for the heat treatment, but it's never caused me a problem with this socket). In either case an Allen key / T bar can be inserted through the socket drive hole while the socket is held or turned with a spanner.

If removing a reluctant rod nut from a damper that won't be re-fitted, then vise-grips on the damper rod can work (and penetrating oil on the rod and nut thread). If the damper is to be re-used, and access permitting through the spring coils and if the dust shield and bump stop can be pulled downward, I have used vise-grips at the top of the damper rod, gripping the rod at a point where it never passes into the body of the damper. Note that an old vise-grips with worn / rounded teeth doesn't work nearly as well as a nice new vise-grips with fresh teeth.

Fitting a new damper or re-fitting a used one using some sort of 'never-seize' on the rod and nut thread makes later disassembly a lot easier...

Regards,
John.

[bazzbazz]

Or you can take to appropriate socket with angle grinder and grind a couple of appropriate flats on it for a spanner.

[johnl]

I have a couple of sockets modded like that too. I used a bench grinder though.

Regards,
John.

[Craig_m67]

For what it's worth, I had the correct dished ring spanner to undo the 22mm M14 nut, it was the rod that couldn't be held in place as the 6mm hex in the end burred out like chocolate. I even used a brand new 6mm hex socket from repco to ensure a good fit.

The B6 damper rod is just made of butter 

[Citroënbender]

I started to burr the OSF hex recess similarly; nice old Jap forged hex bit > German steel.  Did cross my mind to lightly kiss a quarter inch hex bit with the linisher (say, to maybe 6,15mm) and then whack it in!

Interesting "gotcha" on the rears and Bilstein need to be made aware IMO.  There's a single mechanical rivet (ie; burred over head) protruding down on the underside of the rear strut mounts, it's close enough to the centre bore it just conflicts with the OD of Bilstein's conical-to-flat adaptor.  I put a small bevel on the top OD of this adaptor and it sat flat, before that it was forcing the top mount cockeyed and making the 14mm thread bind in the mount's bore.

Now I just need a level-headed RWC inspection at almost zero notice (Friday would be nice!) - any suggestions in Sydney, seriously?  Prior arrangement just flaked on me (fell into the bottle again).

[bazzbazz]

For what it's worth, I had the correct dished ring spanner to undo the 22mm M14 nut, it was the rod that couldn't be held in place as the 6mm hex in the end burred out like chocolate. I even used a brand new 6mm hex socket from repco to ensure a good fit.

The B6 damper rod is just made of butter 

That's where you hold onto the shaft from the outside with some rubber strip around the shaft held with multigrips positioned so the lock against something as you rotate the spanner inside.

As I a tell my son, "I'm not smarter than you . .  .I've just been here longer!"