Penrite LDAS for Selespeed

[warsch]

I've found some old post suggesting that Penrite LDAS is a good substitute for Selenia CS. Penrite also claim compatibility on their website. Checking the datasheets show that these fliud are quite similar in specs.

My question is, can I top up (or in the other words) mix those two in my car?

This LDAS seems like a jack of all trades, last I topped up my Citroen hydraulic suspension with it. And again, local Citroen enthusiasts say it's a good replacement.

[Citroënbender]

Overfill the reservoir slightly. Then you can have an Alfa which leaks green hydraulic fluid too.

I'm confident they would mix, I did a full drain and swap but it's probably overkill. Lots easier to buy LDAS in regional Oz than Tutela CS.

[warsch]

Availability is the main reasoning. I can walk into Autobarn on a weekend and buy LDAS like I did for my Citroen. Obtaining original fluid is a bit of a pain as I either have to shop around, then possibly take time off work to buy or order online which takes time.

[Colin Edwards]

Hi warsch,

I replaced the power steering fluid in my 159 with LDAS.  Regardless of fluid used the system does run very hot.  Only difference I noted was the LDAS does smell a bit when hot.  Not sure if the a Selespeed would run as hot as power steering.

[bazzbazz]

Yes, they are direct "Top up" replacements and can be mixed.

Baz

[warsch]

Now the next question. When I was checking the level, I found that the current fluid there is reddish. Which made me a bit concerned with what the previous owner put in there, the reddish fluid looks so much like ATF. What's the colour of Selenia CS? And is LDAS green?

[bazzbazz]

Ohh dear, you will find it IS ATF and is NOT suitable. It will work, but screws up the seals. Selina CS is golden and LDAS is dark green.

You should do a full system flush, bleed and recalibration.

Baz

[Steve S]

It probably is ATF but it could be anything, there are lots of similar special red colored hydraulic oils out there. Not sure why ATF would cause seal problems and LDAS or anything else wouldn't though.

[warsch]

You should do a full system flush, bleed and recalibration.

Hi Baz.

I've found your manual that covers flush:

Drain the reservoir first
Remove the return hose from base of reservoir
Don't forget to PLUG the inlet to the reservoir after removing the return hose
Fill reservoir with fluid
Cycle through gears to flush system, don't let the reservoir run dry.

How do I go about bleeding and calibration?

Is calibration just a function in FiatEcuScan? Are there any parameters I need to monitor? Clutch Adjustment Position should be 28 - 28.5 mm. Anything else?

Do I need bleeding at all if I just flush without letting the system run dry?

[bazzbazz]

Use the "Clutch Drain" function - it bleeds the system automatically, no need to do it manually.

[Citroënbender]

I found the manual depressurising screw on the actuator bloc, hotwired the pump relay and tried purging it that way - not unlike bleeding an older hydraulic Citroën.  By the time I had MES working the clutch drain procedure made no difference - either this method helped or time had allowed the rest of the air to be forced out.