916 GTV rear shocks suggestions

[ugame]

Hi all.

I know that one of my rear shocks has a leak so it's time to replace them both.

Dont want to spend more than I need to given the car was only $3K to buy, but I'm also open to take the opportunity to upgrade.

Something slightly stiffer than stock? But not bone shaking?

Been looking at the Koni offerings but I read people talking about "yellow, red, blue?" or something being the different rates.

Just wondering what shocks people recommend.

[ugame]

Did some more internet trawling and looks like Koni sports is a convincing upgrade that wont brake the bank or the back
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-andamp-916-spider/170695-koni-sport-shocks-or-alfa-origional.html

"The trick with the Koni Sports is to put the rears on the softest setting before fitting, as you can't adjust them once fitted. The softest setting is good enough for the rear, quite firm and compliant but also giving a much more assured ride, even over broken services. " - Spider95

[Colin Edwards]

I put Koni Yellows on my 159.  Very happy with the result.  They are presently set at about 65% stiff front and 50% stiff rear - on standard Ti springs.  The front yellows as fitted to the 159 are adjustable when installed.  Not sure about a 916 GTV though.  If you can access the front shock upper mount at the strut tower all should be good.

[ugame]

I put Koni Yellows on my 159.  Very happy with the result.  They are presently set at about 65% stiff front and 50% stiff rear - on standard Ti springs.  The front yellows as fitted to the 159 are adjustable when installed.  Not sure about a 916 GTV though.  If you can access the front shock upper mount at the strut tower all should be good.

Cheers mate.

Only doing the rears at present as they "need" doing.

I know it would be better to do the whole set, but I'll save that kind of expenditure for when I get a V6 or when the fronts also "need" doing.

So yeah, just the nice easy rears for now. Which is great as they are a 2 bolt easy DIY job.

Thanks again. Think I'm pretty much settled on Konis.

Did you get yours online or from an Aussie supplier?

That said, I'll be tripping to the UK shortly so I could even go with Alfaholics or EB spares and bring them back on the return flight.

[ugame]

Has anyone here used Koni streets on the rears?

I ask as there is a considerable price difference, and most people run the koni sport on the "soft" setting anyway.

[Citroënbender]

I would be gun-shy about bringing shocks as accompanied baggage. Most contain both oil and pressurised nitrogen, this takes them (per my reading of the current IATA rules) solidly into the grey area and IMO not worth the risk it may bring to you as a traveller.

My most recent shocks purchase was with Demon Tweeks, customer service required some applications of heat but they arrived in about four weeks total elapsed time. And - DT sent them via normal air freight, not Dangerous Goods! Their choice and risk, not mine...

[ugame]

I would be gun-shy about bringing shocks as accompanied baggage. Most contain both oil and pressurised nitrogen, this takes them (per my reading of the current IATA rules) solidly into the grey area and IMO not worth the risk it may bring to you as a traveller.

My most recent shocks purchase was with Demon Tweeks, customer service required some applications of heat but they arrived in about four weeks total elapsed time. And - DT sent them via normal air freight, not Dangerous Goods! Their choice and risk, not mine...

Ah good point. Thanks for raising that. Hadn't even thought about the contents and pressurisation being an issue.

Was blinded by the "small and light for a car part" side of things. I always travel light so would easily fit them within my allowance.

Thanks for the headsup.

Just found a little thread on that topic in the US:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/archive/index.php/t-459065.html

So even on internal flights, as checked baggage, they are turned away.

I like some of the points made though
Like the fact that the planes own shocks seem fine (but they'd be specifically designed) but also the fact that, that's how FedX ships them anyway lol

But rules are rules.

Again, thanks for the heads up. I'd have lost my shocks in London or Singapore

Shipping is only about 35 pounds to Aus anyway.

EDIT:
https://www.singaporeair.com/en_UK/us/travel-info/baggage/baggage-restrictions/

Not listed or anything like it, however I'd still seek writen clarification if I were to bring them back myself.

But for the sake of purchasing peace of mind for as low as $60, I may as well ship them IF I can't find them locally at a good price.

So back to the questions....anyone used Koni Streets? Are the comparable to Koni Sport in soft setting?

[Colin Edwards]

I purchased the Koni yellows locally from Top Performance in Vermont.

Last time I used Koni "reds" was over 30 years ago when tuning Toyotas.  Back then the main diference (apart from price) was the red was not gas pressuised.  Also, the reds had to be removed from the car for adjustment.  Never had any problems with them on a road car.  Always found a suitable setting with them on standard or higher rate springs. 

[ugame]

Well struck a bargain and I wont quite believe it until they arrive.

Koni Streets....in stock..... from EB Spares....

For 88 pounds for THE PAIR!!!!
http://www.ebspares.co.uk/parts/EB4/EB8498.cfm

Snagged a pair and I'm told they should be with me next week.

I couldn't get anything close to that locally and everywhere would have to order in.

Shipping was 38 pounds on top.

[Citroënbender]

It's good to see a relative bargain had now and then. :-D Keen to hear your opinion once they're bedded in.

[ugame]

It's good to see a relative bargain had now and then. :-D Keen to hear your opinion once they're bedded in.

Yep from what I read, and the response from Koni themselves, the streets (str.t), are generally get to a similar setting to the sports on "soft".

However they did also point out that, they are not duel pressurized.

So what I'm anticipating is a feel very much like the Sports on "soft" (which is what most people say to set the rears to anyway) and I just hope I dont find that my springs are shot too lol.

I'm expecting an improvement on my aged originals so I'm sure it will be fine.

[ugame]

Well I ordered them last Thursday evening our time.

To my surprise they were waiting for me at home when I got in from work TODAY!!!

Awesome

[ugame]

Fitted these on sunday arvo.

Easy job thanks to this thread.
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-andamp-916-spider/266715-how-to-guide-front-andamp-rear-suspension-change.html

4 bolts and your're done. And I'd already done a very similar job on my beetle which is the same setup, except torsion bar instead of springs. But the shock is separate, just like on the 916.

Hardest part tbh was working out how to jack the car up so that I could also put stands under the car as there was no way I was going to be using some of my persuasion tools with the car not on stands.

Opted for trolley jack on the alloy bar across the back end of the car as detailed at the bottom of this thread:
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-andamp-916-spider/951889-jacking-up-a-gtv.html
(Note: This thread also details scissor jack failures that I was not aware of, which was very helpful to know)

Procedure
As my trolley jack is a smaller one, my method was as follows:
1) With car on ground, begin the persuasion of the 19mm bolts at the bottom of the shocks.
2) Loosen wheel nuts
3) Jack car to full extent of trolley jack from centre of the bar which was JUST enough to raise the wheel off the ground, but not enough for the high setting on my stands.
4) Carefully remove wheel
5) Drop car onto stands on 2nd height setting
6) Place scissor jack under end of control arm to take pressure off shock bolts (tip from threads above)
7) Loosen bottom 19mm bolt
8 ) Persuade top 17mm bolt and loosen
9) Remove bottom and top bolts completely
10) Persuade old shock out of place
11) Insert net shock and persuade into location.
12) Insert bolts. Adjustment of the scissor jack for the bottom bolt is key.
13) Raise on jack, refit wheel, and drop to floor.
14) Repeat for side 2.

See pic of shock installed
I'm not one to go gaga over car parts but I think it's the sexiest shock ever....coz I installed it

Pop Quiz
Also see other pic of an odd part that was rattling around at the base of the spring on the drivers side. What the hell is that? And .....do I need it? lol

Comparison between old and new shocks
It's early days and they need to bed in, but first impressions are best summed up as "noticeable difference".
I'm not going to claim to have a racing drivers butt, that can feel everything the car is doing. I dont. But the ride is stiffer, has less roll, and less bounce.
It's solid but still comfortable.

The only issue is now I want to do the fronts, which now feel vague in comparison.

Bench test comparison video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhyGYQ7_H3o

[ugame]

mate just noticed at lunch time that the car is still sitting lower on the driver side gggggrrrrrrrr

So we assume that because the shock on that side was more worn, that spring has taken the weight over time and compressed more than that of the other side.

That's the theory anyway.

So I guess new springs are in my future lol.

[Colin Edwards]

Hi ugame,

Broken part looks like it broke fairly recently given the color of the old / new surfaces.  If it was inside the spring and therefore a smaller diameter than the spring its unlikely to be a spring shim or part of the spring seat.  Spring seats are usually rubber and a shim wouldn't be plastic.  Is it part of the bump stop?
Whats the difference in ride height left to right?