New car - yay! New issues...

Started by GTVeloce, January 23, 2018, 03:30:26 PM

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GTVeloce

Well by new I mean a 1986 GTV with the TS engine, brakes and gearbox fitted. Generally she drives very well and passed a roadworthy easily enough.

However, I have a few problems that I am wondering if they are related or just coincidental.
1. At about 80km/h and above there becomes a vibration through the steering wheel. Feels a bit like a wheel weight has been thrown. However, occasionally the problem is not there. Then you hit a small bump and it's back.
2. The brakes shudder under hard braking. Braking force and pedal feel is otherwise very good.
3. The rear hand brake seems to stick on when you have been parked and requires a firm stop to free it up. A quick visual inspection of the rear callipers shows what appears to be new/refurbished callipers.
4. An inspection of the watts linkage unveils a customised upper link. It appears to have the normal ends for the bushing but instead of having a hollow tube connecting them, there is a small, thin metal rod. The lower rod appears to be standard. I can't see any reason for doing this. The rest of the suspension is stock except some Koni yellows. If the original was damaged surely you would replace with another? They are not that hard to come by. The exhaust is 2L meaning it does not pass the upper watts link.

Could some of these be related to each other or am I looking at four different issues with four different works required?

ACE

Congratulations!  :)
Colour ?

Otherwise:
1 tie rod ends/ball joints?
2 warped rotor?
3 common complaint! may need to reco the calipers to resolve.
4 unusual! Is it rigid under compression?

bonno

#2
HI GTVeloce
I would suggest they are all unrelated issues
1.   At about 80km/h and above there becomes a vibration through the steering wheel. Feels a bit like a wheel weight has been thrown. However, occasionally the problem is not there. Then you hit a small bump and it's back.
If it is confined thru the steering then worn steering components is the likely cause or vibration of car could be tailshaft alignment. You can find a previous post on this topic at the following link  http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=13734.0
2.   The brakes shudder under hard braking. Braking force and pedal feel is otherwise very good.
Rotor run out is probably the cause
3.   The rear hand brake seems to stick on when you have been parked and requires a firm stop to free it up. A quick visual inspection of the rear callipers shows what appears to be new/refurbished callipers.
The pivot point at the hand brake cable end is probably sticking might just require to be greased at the mating sliding surfaces.
4.    An inspection of the watts linkage unveils a customised upper link. It appears to have the normal ends for the bushing but instead of having a hollow tube connecting them, there is a small, thin metal rod. The lower rod appears to be standard. I can't see any reason for doing this. The rest of the suspension is stock except some Koni yellows. If the original was damaged surely you would replace with another? They are not that hard to come by. The exhaust is 2L meaning it does not pass the upper watts link.
I would replace the modified link with a standard component.
cheers
bonno

poohbah

Congratulations Julian on your new GTV. Good to see you back on the horse.

I get similar vibration in my GTV through steering at about 100kph - believe it is a front wheel slightly out of round, so maybe that is worth checking.

Re the handbrake, sounds like it just needs a simple readjustment (I recall that to set handbrake correctly you tighten the calipers until they very slightly drag on the disc then back off a little until it spins freely again)

Now:    2002 156 GTA
            1981 GTV
Before: 1999 156 V6 Q-auto
            2001 156 V6 (sadly cremated)

GTVeloce

Thanks for the replies guys. I was sort of hopeful they might be related in some way. Time is limited at the moment so hoping to not have to work my way through rear brakes, front suspension/steering and swapping watts linkages over but I think I just have to bite the bullet.

QuoteCongratulations!  :)
Colour ?
Red of course!  ;)

I have attached a couple of images. The first is the only picture of the car I have so far. Need to rectify that. The second is the 'home made' watts link. I was wondering whether that could be the cause of the vibration as may flex once under load? Certainly not taking it on the track until it has been replaced but still can't understand why anyone would go through the effort of making such a thing when replacements are readily available.

Looks like the action list to start with is;
1) replace rear watts link with standard unit (I have a spare unit)
2) replace tie rods and tie rod ends (I have good condition spares)
3) check rear discs for out of round
4) lubricate handbrake pivot points

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for an 86? My last couple of GTVs were 83 models and the wiring in the fusebox seems quite different to what was in those cars which was similar to wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual.

GTVeloce

And the dodgy Watts link...

ACE

Noice!
I like the wheels too, but I reckon they might look better on a silver coupe ;-)

btw #2 Brake shudder and warped rotor(s)?
Apart from feeling it through the pedal: Fronts are likely to felt through the steering wheel, whereas rears would be felt through the cabin or gear lever?
I would also expect the sensation to disappear between braking, only returning when brakes are applied. It would also likely create a spongy feel to the pedal initially, due to the extra pad travel required as the pads (on the warped disk) would be pushed further away from the disk than normal.

Good luck.

timothysmyth65

Quote from: GTVeloce on January 24, 2018, 02:49:32 PM
Thanks for the replies guys. I was sort of hopeful they might be related in some way. Time is limited at the moment so hoping to not have to work my way through rear brakes, front suspension/steering and swapping watts linkages over but I think I just have to bite the bullet.

QuoteCongratulations!  :)
Colour ?
Red of course!  ;)

I have attached a couple of images. The first is the only picture of the car I have so far. Need to rectify that. The second is the 'home made' watts link. I was wondering whether that could be the cause of the vibration as may flex once under load? Certainly not taking it on the track until it has been replaced but still can't understand why anyone would go through the effort of making such a thing when replacements are readily available.

Looks like the action list to start with is;
1) replace rear watts link with standard unit (I have a spare unit)
2) replace tie rods and tie rod ends (I have good condition spares)
3) check rear discs for out of round
4) lubricate handbrake pivot points

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for an 86? My last couple of GTVs were 83 models and the wiring in the fusebox seems quite different to what was in those cars which was similar to wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual.
Hey, I've just finished a twin spark swap in a 1985 GTV and am considering the exhaust. Are you able to post a picture of yours around the DeDion.
Also, I've got 2 Momo wheels the same as yours that are surplus to my needs if your interested. Some asshole stole 2 of them.
Cheers

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


GTVeloce

QuoteI like the wheels too, but I reckon they might look better on a silver coupe ;-)
I am uncertain about the wheels. I do have a nice set of Ronals I could put on but that will also require a change of hubs.

Quotebtw #2 Brake shudder and warped rotor(s)?
Apart from feeling it through the pedal: Fronts are likely to felt through the steering wheel, whereas rears would be felt through the cabin or gear lever?
I would also expect the sensation to disappear between braking, only returning when brakes are applied. It would also likely create a spongy feel to the pedal initially, due to the extra pad travel required as the pads (on the warped disk) would be pushed further away from the disk than normal.
The gear lever vibrates significantly under firm braking making me think it is the rear discs. As you say the sensation disappears between braking but the pedal feel and braking force is excellent. Go figure.

QuoteAre you able to post a picture of yours around the DeDion
Happy to. Can you PM me a phone number or email address?

If I decide to put the Ronals on these four wheels will come up for sale.

timothysmyth65

Quote from: GTVeloce on January 25, 2018, 09:23:48 PM
QuoteI like the wheels too, but I reckon they might look better on a silver coupe ;-)
I am uncertain about the wheels. I do have a nice set of Ronals I could put on but that will also require a change of hubs.

Quotebtw #2 Brake shudder and warped rotor(s)?
Apart from feeling it through the pedal: Fronts are likely to felt through the steering wheel, whereas rears would be felt through the cabin or gear lever?
I would also expect the sensation to disappear between braking, only returning when brakes are applied. It would also likely create a spongy feel to the pedal initially, due to the extra pad travel required as the pads (on the warped disk) would be pushed further away from the disk than normal.
The gear lever vibrates significantly under firm braking making me think it is the rear discs. As you say the sensation disappears between braking but the pedal feel and braking force is excellent. Go figure.

QuoteAre you able to post a picture of yours around the DeDion
Happy to. Can you PM me a phone number or email address?

If I decide to put the Ronals on these four wheels will come up for sale.
0404 295 919.
Can you send pictures of the Ronal wheels too, I'd be interested to see what they look like.
Cheers

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


Mick A

Replace your watts link immediately mate.

That is not strong enough, and is a dodgy and shit repair. Whoever did that should be shot.

I cannot stress this enough. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR, REPLACE THE WATTS LINK IMMEDIATELY.

If you need one, we have a million of them at Monza Motors.

Mick.