Penrite power steering fluid

[corona]

Hi,
Just wondering, has anyone used Penrite Power Steering Fluid?
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/power-steering-fluid
I spoke to a penrite tech guy about this vs Ldas for my new (to me) 159 2.4 JTD wagon and was recommend to stick with this.

I tried the fluid change yesterday (empty reservoir, refill, run, repeat) and it didn't go so well.
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-159-brera-andamp-946-spider/1133874-159-power-steering-fluid-change-sucked-air-new-post.html#/topics/1133874

If anyone else is using this fluid it'd make it easier for me to stick with it. Thanks!

[Citroënbender]

I have this PAS fluid in two Peugeots and two Alfa 147s. No problems anywhere.

[bazzbazz]

The 159 series has a manufacturing defect with the filter in the original Power Steering Reservoir, this is what is now causing your problems. To solve this you need to purchase a new updated Power Steering Reservoir AND USE LDAS ONLY!

You must also re-flush the system with LDAS to remove the mineral based fluid you now have in there. To do this you must -

1/ Jack the front wheels off the ground and  place car on stands
2/ Empty the reservoir, remove old reservoir & fit new reservoir to the outlet hose that goes to the pump only.
3/ Plug the return hole in the reservoir, Connect an extra length of clear hose/tubing to the return hose so that it can reach a suitable
    bucket or container on the floor.
4/ Fill reservoir with LDAS then slowly rotate the steering wheel from left to right and you will see the fluid being pumped into the bucket
    DO THIS WITH ENGINE OFF - DO NOT START ENGINE OR YOU WILL BLAST FLUID ALL OVER THE PLACE!!
5/ Keep topping up fluid and rotating wheel till you see fresh clean LDAS fluid running out the clear tube.
6/ Rotate wheel till the reservoir JUST runs dry, so you can reconnect the return hose without fluid going everywhere. (Don't forget to
    remove plug)
7/ Refit the reservoir to car, top up with LDAS, then rotate wheels left & right 20 times to bleed any air from the system.
8/ Check LDAS level, lower car & test drive

[corona]

Thanks for the fantastic detail @bazzbazz.
Other things I'd read had the car running to pump the fluid (quickly) which makes it a 2 person job to keep res topped up. This is infinitely easier and safer.

I've actually just got the car up on jack's to do a flush like you describe and was trying to figure out how to keep it topped up while running!

I've already been back to shop (in different car) to pick up more fluid and went for penrite's semi synthetic due to reading a number of stories of switching to OEM green starting seal leaks on cars that had been on red dex3 fluid to date. I thought the thinner green / Ldas might be less critical here in warmer climate?

On a related note, do you have any suggestions on where to get the newer reservoir locally (or deny shipping online)?
I need to also confirm whether mine has the newer reservoir already, for what it's worth the filter is still very much attached to return line side wall.

I'll do a return line detached flush now with the fluid I've got, hopefully get me back on the road to evaluate switching reservoirs and perhaps Ldas...

[bazzbazz]

If the Power steering is making noise it is from cavitation caused by the faulty older fluid reservoir.

You can flush till your hearts content, you still wont get a positive outcome till you replace it.

I don't know of anywhere in Sydney but you can contact Chris at CL Restorations in Brisbane to get one - (07) 3252 9315

[Colin Edwards]

+1 for LDAS.  Smells a bit more when hot than the red stuff though!

[corona]

I thought the frothing in the old reservoir was only if/when the internal filter comes loose? And/or it never affected the shorter stumpy reservoir in the 2.4?
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/7651937-post20.html

I finished a full flush as per @bazzbazz recommended (without reservoir change though) with Penrite Pas semi synthetic: http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/pas-fluid-power-assisted-steering-fluid
It's tech specs looked pretty in-between tutela gi/e and gi/r
For reference I sucked the reservoir dry, detached the return line, plugged the port. Attached piece of clear pipe to return line, into old oil bottle. Car jacked up, key fob in the dash to unlock the steering wheel, back and forth lock to lock pumping oil until res pretty much emptied, refill, repeat.  It took about 1.5L until the outflow in clear tube really looked green. Had to go back to shop in between for the second bottle, very annoying.
Reattach return line (with new house clamp), refill reservoir, turn engine on. Turn lock to lock.

No more groaning!

I pulled out the filter while res was empty; it was fully intact, no damage. Only a little bit of black muck in the end of it which I (mostly) cleaned out before refitting the filter.

On a related note, where the suction line enters the pump, the main line from res goes into a short bit of solid line that then has an even shorter bit of rubber line elbow attaching to the pump itself. This bit of rubber line was a bit oil-damp like it's been leaking a bit.
Anyone else seen this?

I really should have pulled it off to replace while I had next to no fluid in the system, but was running out of time already. Not too sure how to do so without making a mess though, being the intake at the pump it'll be hard to drain that far without sucking more air back into the pump so the alternator directly under it doesn't get drowned in oil taking of the pipe.

Thanks!

[Steve S]

The Penrite PS fluid is a lot thicker than regular ATF, it's what old Falcons require. M2C134D is effectively 10w30 tractor gear/hyd oil (UTTO), I'm surprised they recommend this as their regular PS fluid. LDAS is as the other end of  the scale, much lower viscosity.

[Citroënbender]

I'd think the pump will gravity prime, more or less. 

Have always emptied steering racks/rams by manipulating the wheel or spindle lock-to-lock with front jacked up, it shunts the fluid out pretty smartly!