Entering a world of pain - restoring my 1984 GTV 2.0

[MattK]

Oh - including bodywork etc. I'm moderately confident that the front right wing and the spot on the rear hatch are the only rust zones - I had a 33 and believe me I am familiar with the rust habits of 80s Alfas. My only concern is the right rear - as you can see from the first pic there has been some bodywork there, or at least respraying, and I am not sure how much filler there might be / hidden rust perhaps. The only places I think might hide rust are the sills. And there are also slight cracks in the doors where the window frame joins the body of the door.
When I get a good spot to work on it, I will go over it carefully and make an honest account of what's likely to be problematic.

[Citroënbender]

I believe the real "pick of the litter" GTV longer term will either be a debugged early car or a swansong edition. Either would sport a factory V6 manual drivetrain without mods and be bone stock inside. Use the 205GTi as a yardstick, all the souped up, turbocharged or caged cars are worth less than a minter or lightly restored "matching numbers" build.

So if one is cynically talking about "worth it" in terms of open market retained value, they are the aspirational points. Anything else is - to a greater or lesser degree - personal indulgence. Which is fine in my book providing it's acknowledged thus.

Final comment from me (I hope!) re the $10K limit: Not achievable.

[As the day goes]

$50,000 for a full strip and restore is not unreasonable from what I have heard.  Including interior.

If the paint were in very good nick and there are no mechanicals to be done, then you could get away with $7,000-$10,000 with a trim and windows out.  Thats 'my' experience.  I would replace all window rubbers at the very least.   However there is already evidence of rust that needs to be taken care of.

[poohbah]

Get a magnet and check the hip-line along the base of the rear side windows, especially where the skinny upright joins the body. A favourite location for secret bog-cicles.

The magnet can be a very mood-deflating tool...

[bonno]

Hi Matty
My two bobs worth is get the car roadworthy first, meaning rust repair (cut out and weld in replacement panels, then undercoat/prime them only) and carry essential mechanical repairs that includes brakes, clutch and cooling systems. Once registered and on the road, then carry out a freshen up of the entire vehicle, that includes full body respray and external trims. This would be a much cheaper option and should fit within you $10K budget. One word of advice based on long term sitting out in the weather is to check and double check for corrosion in particular the usual problem areas (mud traps), such as lower guards, sills, floor and windscreen (the magnet tip is useful for detecting dodgy repairs). Finally a simple plan for all this work.

[poohbah]

Just start by getting it roadworthy - doesn't have to be pretty to be enjoyed. Someone else posted this link a couple of years back but its still valid evidence: vimeo.com/149232132

[MattK]

This is all great advice - thank you. Roadworthy adds so much flexibility in terms of options, then panels, then paint if it's all worthwhile. Good thinking and some useful clarity thanks.

[MattK]

Poohbah - great clip thanks. Worth remembering what it's all about!

[poohbah]

Out of interest sake - what/where in the transmission did it go bang? Is it usual worn 2nd gear synchro or something more substantial?

The planetary gear in the diff busted in mine. That was a transaxle-out job.

[MattK]

So long since it happened I have forgotten. I'll report back when I find out. Not a synchro though, I think it was a show stopper.

[poohbah]

I look forward to hearing how things pan out.

[As the day goes]

And looky here:

http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=3892.0

[Duk]

Was considering one of the electronic ignition kits I saw on the Highwood Alfa website.

It should already have an electronic ignition.

Keep in mind that the Alfa electronic ignition is just electronic (solid state) switching of the ignition coil. The actual ignition advance curve is based on a purely mechanical mechanism.

[poohbah]

I fitted one of the elctronic ignition kits to my '81 - it still had mechanical points. I assume by '84 they were no longer fitted?

[Duk]

I fitted one of the elctronic ignition kits to my '81 - it still had mechanical points. I assume by '84 they were no longer fitted?

I had the old Jaycar/Siliconchip magazine electronic ignition system in my '80 Giulietta.
The points were used to provide a switching signal to the electronics with a large transistor doing all of the heavy lifting (so to speak). The point's contact surfaces last much much longer because there is bugger all current passing thru them with the electronic ignition. Tho the rubbing surface of the points would still wear.
The next step along would be to have a hall effect or optical trigger and suitable disc.
Advance curve was still controlled by the distributor's weights and springs.

Tho in this day and age, a proper 3 dimensonal programmable system would give the best overal results and be tunable to suit any changes made to the engine and better match the fuel you intend to use.
I reckon it'd be great to have another carby fed Alfa and do that along with some typical head, cam and carby upgrades.