1982 GTV renovation

[bazzbazz]

After all the time, money & effort you have put into the car wouldn't putting it in a Safe be a more appropriate option? 

[shiny_car]

The cover looks good!  I have a 156 version on my 75, lol.

[Anth73]

Completed my audio installation over the weekend and Australia Day, taking inspiration from an AlfaBB member's bluetooth audio setup in their Spider. As mentioned in an earlier post I fitted a NOS GTV6 radio blanking plate instead of a period style AM/FM radio cassette. My plan was to use that free space to install a bluetooth audio receiver with speakers in the rear door cards.

The bluetooth receiver I used is a JL Audio MBT-RX that is A2DP standard and designed for installation in cars, boats and other AV vehicles. It comes with a fused power wire, ground wire and two RCA connectors which suited me fine. I wanted it setup so that it would power on with the engine running and found the easiest power source available was that going to my absent glove box light. Current draw is a tiny 20mA to 32mA so no issues using this connection in my mind. Conveniently the glove box light wiring commences at a 3-pin connector just behind the radio/ashtray compartment.

I also fitted an RCA line level controller bought from Jaycar to function as a volume button so I don't have to touch my phone when driving to alter the volume. It comes with input RCA plugs that connect to the RCA jacks on the MBT-RX and output RCA plugs that go to my boot mounted amplifier. It fitted nicely in the centre console under the ashtray for easy access whilst driving and keeps everything else looking stock.

I bought a JVC 4-channel amplifier as it was a known brand, well priced and small enough to mount in my boot near my battery. I was also going to mount a small subwoofer in the boot however, the amplifer pulls 15A and the subwoofer another 15A. I'm not really into doof-doof thumping bass lines and opted to save my valuable idle amperes for my cooling fans. You'll see I bolted the amplifier to the boot floor on small wooden blocks.  It was recommended on several audio websites to avoid mounting directly on metal surfaces (introduces a lot of noise, crackles and pops) and the heat generated from the amplifier had me worried about toasting the factory original GTV6 moulded carpet set I bought from the Netherlands. Happily all the wiring is nicely hidden behind my battery ad the boot carpet needed just a little trimming to fit around my floor mounted battery.

The Pioneer 5.5" speakers I bought were a dead easy fitting as they exactly matched the existing cutouts and screw holes in the rear panels near the window winder knob. I upsized the photographed 250W speakers to 300W as they are the same profile and only a little more expensive. Overall the sytems produces more than enough noise for me, it's great to have some modern audio connectivity in the car and besides, who wants to drown out the magic of a worked busso V6 being driven as Giuseppe Busso intended!

[GTVeloce]

I love that blanking plate. Looks fantastic.

I hadn't heard about not mounting the amp on metal. Mine is mounted on the metal, boot side of the rear seat wall. I might look at insulating it from the metal.

Where did you mount your speakers?

[Anth73]

Where did you mount your speakers?

Factory mounting is in the rear near the window winder knobs. The 5.5" speakers are  as big as you can fit I think. Realised I wrote "door cards" by mistake...have fixed that now.

[Anth73]

Having completed the installation of my buetooth receiver and amplifier I wanted to replace the bulky single USB adapter in my cigarette lighter with a flush fitting dual USB socket. Despite many attempts I was unable to find a dual USB adapter that was long enough to fully engage and power up with the standard cigarette lighter.

A bit of googling and I came up with a solution comprising of:

- 12V to 5V 3A dual USB female charger bought from Amazon (photo 1 below)
- 22mm USB connector socket with dual male 60cm connectors (photo 2 below)

Most USB sockets I found were around 28mm in diameter and made of plastic. So I was very happy to find a 22mm wide socket with aluminium body to fit in the standard 25mm hole in the centre console for the cigarette lighter. I had already wired up a connector when I installed my bluetooth adapter, but you could easily use the existing wiring for the cigarette lighter. Just make sure you use the correct yellow wire for power as there are two. One is used for the light bulb next to the cigarette lighter, the other powers the actual cigarette lighter. Once you remove the centre console it is very straight forward to determine which is the correct wire if you don't have a wiring diagram handy, and removing the cigarette lighter is as easy as squeezing the metal body of the light bulb fitting to remove it from the cigarette lighter and that then allows the cigarette lighter to rotate and free the retaining clips.

Installing the USB socket is very easy, as it secures with a large plastic nut from the underside. The socket comes with an optional plastic cover which wasn't to my liking. I hid the USB charger alongside my bluetooth receiver in the cavity where the radio would normally go. The 60cm length male connectors wired to the socket were perfect.

I think the flush fitting looks smart without detracting from the otherwise standard look of the interior.

[Anth73]

Sourced a few more bits and pieces as I tick off items on the to-do list. First up is the rare power distribution terminal complete with cover that is mounted on the firewall near the brake booster. The covers are starting to be 3D printed but I was happy to find an original and complete unit. All that was required was a section of 10G wire to join the two terminals. I used the left terminal for the main battery feed and starter motor cables, right terminal for everything else.

I'm also planning to convert my manual windows to power windows and already have the correct motors for my earlier style doors. Inspired by GTVeloce's recent posts about the illuminated power window switches he installed, I bought four aftermarket illuminated switches and wiring pigtails online,  installed two into the dash and kept the originals  I received with the motors and two illuminated aftermarket switches as spares.  The aftermarket switches were very easy to install using four pin terminal connectors between the original Alfa wiring loom and the aftermarket switches which require a fifth wire due to the extra earth connection.

Luke Clayton recently posted about a large supply of spare parts and from that I was able to source the emergency window winder and a LHS front indicator lense to replace the one on my car that was actually a RHS unit fitted upside down.

Lastly, I never did gel with the 350mm Momo steering wheel that was on the car. It always felt too small for my liking, even with power steering now fitted. I had been looking for a 360mm Momo steering wheel to replace it, ideally that used in the SZ but they are incredibly rare. Similar Momo Ghibli steering wheels are also now stupidly expensive locally as they were used on Brock / HDT Commodores. Then I happened to see a Facebook post from a reputabe Alfa specialist regarding a restored SZ "replica" wheel. It has the same Momo identification numbers stamped on the back, 360mm diameter, manufactured May 1990 and came with the Zagato Design hornpad. I think it looks really good!

Other than a trip down to Sorrento I haven't been able to get the GTV6 out on the road lately. A drive in the northern hills beckons this long weekend.

[GTVeloce]

I've always loved those Momo SZ steering wheels and it looks great in the GTV6. Agree the 360mm size is about right. I have a 360mm Nardi in mine and very happy with that.

If you want to see how the rest of the wiring for the electric windows runs, my dash is off making if very easy to follow the trail of spaghetti... It's actually pretty easy. The wiring part is very straight forward for these cars. Probably the hard part is mounting the motors in the doors unless you have the complete set of parts. I did it to my current car but I used the glass and everything making it reasonably straight forward.

[Anth73]

Today was the first real opportunity to give the GTV6 a proper early morning run in the countryside using many secondary and back roads I'm familiar with from my road cycling training rides through the north eastern hills. My good friend Steve and his friend Carmine joined the fun in their GTV6 and 4C respectively. Commiserations to Julian (aka GT Veloce) who had to pull out last night due to illness.

Below are the links to the route we travelled via Warrandyte, Watsons Creek, St Andrews, Yarra Glen, Healesville, Castella, Kinglake, Nutfield, Kangaroo Ground, Eltham and Viewbank if you'd like to use these as a basis to plan your own drive. It was about 180km in total and there are many variations, but do check the roads around Christmas Hills as many are still gravel. My favourite sections were Pigeon Bank Rd / Menzies Rd around Kangaroo Ground, Clintons Road from Rob Roy to Smiths Gully, Buttermans Track from St Andrews to Yarra Glen, Myers Creek Rd from Healesville to Castella and the Kinglake descent which I had all to myself and the fabulous Busso V6 spinning from 3000rpm to 6000rpm. I'm very happy to have fitted the Tarox 6-pot 298mm front brakes as they were fade free despite plenty of heavy braking.

My GTV6 ran beautifully, handling the corners with ease thanks to the revised roll centre brought about by fitting the extended top arm ball joints up front. It was a noticeble difference compared to when I had the Twin Spark 75 motor fitted and no revised roll centre. Steve and I swapped cars from Healesville, the 2.5V6 in the GTV6 really does sing a sweet note. However, on a sour note the clutch had been complaining for some time prior to today, downshifts got progressivly harder and it packed it in once I reached Castella. Stuck in gear, Steve's GTV6 was disabled by the side of the road. On a positive note I got to drive Carmine's 4C while we waited for the tow truck. What an exhilirating drive! 

The only minor issue for me was a few crunched 4th to 3rd shifts even though the cluth was fully depressed and shifts taken patiently, something to look into at the 1000km run-in service. Lastly, skip the Beechworth Bakery in Healesville, coffee was average and there are much better options.

Link to the google map route to Healesville: https://goo.gl/maps/6eHFj3eZqGGHpz2d9

Link to the google map route from Healesville: https://goo.gl/maps/zEEZeAMxTmkqu7MP9

[bazzbazz]

It's a little strange to look at the GTV6 & 4C together, but eons apart.

One being traditional & old school, the other futuristic & alien, you wouldn't ponder that they were the same manufacturer.

[TEE Z2]

That's because the GTV was designed in Milan and the 4C in Turin 

[GeeTV]

Whilst they are unfortunate circumstances, what a great photo with the two gtv6's.
The Healesville are alive with the sound of Busso!.... sorry couldn't help it 

[TEE Z2]

what was the issue with the GTV6?

[Anth73]

I've been making use of the poorly timed wet weather of late to complete a few odd jobs on my GTV6. First up was to install the front and rear splash plates in the front wheel wells. I bought the splash plates from EB Spares in 2021 and they sat in a box waiting for the engine conversion to be completed. Fortunately this delay meant reproduction rubber pinchweld seals were able to be sourced from Italy to keep debris out of the cavity formed behind the rear splash plate. As you can see in the photo below of the dustpan, quite a lot of stones and other debris gets flicked up by the front tyre. I brushed out over 300g worth from the passenger side alone!

Installation was very straightforward once I was able to hammer out the body seal where the firewall and inner guard meet back into a vertical line and position the rear splash plate against it. Mine had been hammered flat to provide a little more clearance for the front tyres with a lot of castor added in for racing purposes I'm guessing. So far no signs of rubbing thankfully.

The front spash plates don't have anything attached to the bottom "L" bracket as the factory inner guard on my car must have met it's fate with rust and an angle grinder when the car had its bare metal restoration. All were secured with stainless rivets except for two attachment points visible in the engine bay on the front passenger side spash plate. For those I used 5mm stainless steel bolts and nuts.

[Anth73]

Here's the parts labels for the pinchweld. It was quite expensive due to shipping and you may find something similar from Clark Rubber could do the job also.