Wheel bearing part numbers

[156Buck]

Hi all,

What is the difference between OE part numbers for front wheel bearings 51813925 and 71714478?
Looking on Arese Spares there is a big price difference between the two, but searching both part numbers online bring up the exact same bearing.

Thanks!

[156Buck]

For anyone else's reference - just spoke to Arese spares.

71714478 - Wheel bearing kit including new bolts and hub nut

51813925 - Complete new hub with wheel bearing pre installed

[Craig_m67]

.... and unless you have a big press (or access to one), you want the hub/bearing preinstalled version

[bazzbazz]

.... and unless you have a big press (or access to one), you want the hub/bearing preinstalled version

And I get the feeling that will cost a lot more, let me know if I am wrong.

[Domenic]

If you google the part #'s there are no pictures of a Genuine Alfa part with a hub installed. So i cannot understand the explanation of one has it installed and one doesn't ?

Alfa never sold the wheel bearings and hubs complete. They have always been separate on the front of 147/156 cars

The different part # will refer to Alfa getting the bearings from different bearing manufacturers

[bazzbazz]

I think one may find the difference is that one will be just for the Wheel Bearing alone, and the other will be for Bearing + mounting bolts + Hub Nut.

[Domenic]

it could possibly be that Bazz, but when you see the price difference between the two numbers i don't believe the bolts and hub nut are that much more expensive 

[Craig_m67]

There's a couple of bits to make it all work

1. The bearing, not reusable.
2. The bearing carrier/hub. Bolts to the upright, reusable.
3. The hub flange (slides over driveshaft splines, is a press fit into the bearing), reusable
4. 36mm nut, reusable (but why would you)


You can't remove any of it without first removing the driveshaft (easy), then pulling/pressing out the hub flange (which destroys the bearing).  You can then access the four bolts holding the bearing carrier to the upright (as they're just behind the flange) if you need to remove/replace it.  The bearing is easy, falls out of the carrier.  Actually, on second thoughts I may have frozen it to get it to fit.. can't remember

Getting the hub flange back into the bearing/bearing carrier/hub is the bit that needs a big press.

There are different hub flanges to match different driveshafts (splines/thickness) to match different engines .. Ask me how I know

Some pictures here as the terms for bearing, bearing hub and hub flange seem to be getting conflated. 

https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Results&category=19&secondary=38&opts=3381&term=Alfa_Romeo_156_Mk2_(2002_to_)_2.0_JTS_16v_Wheel_Bearings_/_Hubs

They're not expensive (subjective obviously), if you have a press you can do this at home.

[156Buck]

To me it could makes sense considering there is a ~$100 price difference between the two and how there would be a market for the bearing pre installed in a hub + carrier to save the need of a press to do the job. It is a massive amount of cast and machined metal and added work for the price which is odd as Bazz mentioned. Searching ePer was no help either.

71714478 I'm confident has bearing + bolts + nut all in one as I was ordering Hub nuts separately and so Vlad double checked that 71714478 came with one to save doubling up. I'm just relaying the info I understood. If any of that's wrong will definitely edit to not add to the confusion. 

Cheers Craig. I done the driveshafts on both sides before. Personally I found it a struggle to get them out, although I did both without removing Lower WB's previously. I've got access to a press - I'm sure a bit of heat will save the day worst case. Will definitely freeze the carriers overnight before pressing in.

Thanks for the help!

[bazzbazz]

There are different hub flanges to match different driveshafts (splines/thickness) to match different engines .. Ask me how I know

I'd ask, but I know you'd throw something big, heavy & deadly at me.   

[156Buck]

Just got done changing the wheel bearings themselves - grouping in upper + lower WB, drop links and tie rods change to rid the wet noodle driving experience I've had for the past year! I made some pretty amateur mistakes along the way and hopefully I can save someone else from making this mistake with their wheel bearings. A  standard bottle jack press easily pressed out and pressed in the hub btw.

When the bearing is pressed out, more than likely half of the front bearing race will be seized onto the rear face of the hub. If you weren't paying attention (like me) you could start pressing the hub back in with this still in place (like me ).
You can apply localised heat to the race and hit the race with a Flathead screwdriver and hammer or the quicker way I've been shown is to grab the grinder and carefully cut a slot diagonally across to allow the race to expand open.
Make sure the bearing is supported underneath when you try press the hub back in. If your set up is not completely perpendicular, it may catch the second bearing and start pushing it out the back without you realising.

Another tip is to add a bit of grease to the bore before you try bolt to new bearing in. This will allow a little rotation of the bearing once its seated to line up all 4 holes and not cross thread each bolt. Or just make sure each bolt is threaded in a few turns before you hammer the bearing into place in the upright.

Live and learn as they say! Luckily I only pressed in the hub quarter way before realising my mistake and the bearing was saved.