TS resto

[DJH]

Hi all

Having been suitably impressed with Shiny's return to work on his 75 I have brought my twin spark out of storage where it has sat for the last 10 years and decided to do a pretty thorough mechanical resto to get it back to being a daily driver.  I will be incorporating a few little upgrades along the way but nothing too dramatic. 

I have a spare TS motor that has been re-built and have pulled the flywheel off it to take to the machinist.  Unfortunately it apparently wont fit his equipment and he needs to attach it to a crank to spin it.  Anyone out there got a TS crank lying around that I can borrow for a few weeks and return (only has to be straight and wont get harmed in the process!).  Im in Melbourne but car is in Geelong so either of those towns would work.

thanks

[shiny_car]

I can't help with a crank, sorry, but keen to see your progress.  You'll probably finish well before me!

[DJH]

thanks Shiny

Im hoping it will be done in the next couple of weeks (its not quite to the same level as yours! its a pretty original car with a freshen up so that I can enjoy driving it every day).  I wonder if a Nord crank would bolt up to the TS flywheel - that would probably work as well.

Ive got a few pics of bits and pieces that have been done.  Started by pulling out the rear transaxle to replace some synchros and to check bearings and seals of box and diff (was pretty good before I stopped driving it, just usual weakness on 2nd).  driveshafts to be rebuilt, poly bushings and SZ style de dion A frame bearing.  Here's the start of it:

[shiny_car]

Looks good! At least you avoided tackling the rear wheel bearings, lol.

[DJH]

OK - no luck on crank so change of plan - sticking with standard (lightened flywheel will have to wait for another day).

Next topic though - where to get a new radiator.  Current one full of leaks.  Im hoping they are still available from one of the more mainstream places - any tips?

Also, some more pics - gearbox related this time.  All pretty good on the inside (consistent with how it drove).  Couple of new synchros gone in and some seals otherwise should be good for some more kms.  The new synchros dont look an awful lot different to the ones that came out - must be pretty fine line between good and iffy.

[MD]

Couple of things:-

The Nord crank will be the same at the flywheel end. The flywheels themselves will fit the same. The ring gear teeth numbers are different.

The proper servicing of the transaxle synchro function is the replacement of the dogs on the gear, the replacement of the synchro mesh ring and the replacement of the synchro clamp ring.

Doing just one of these is a bit like brushing your teeth without the paste. Sort of works....

Trouble is that some of these parts are almost unobtainium now.

[LukeC]

Regarding flywheel lightening... When I lightened the flywheel for my 3.2 engine (same issue in my lathe chuck cannot grip the outside), I cut off the back of a 2.5 crank and bolted the 2.5 donor flywheel to it to grab onto. Bit of chatter, but skinned that cat.

I recently had a guy ask me to lighten his Alfetta 2.0 flywheel and ran into the same problem. I quoted him what I thought it would cost to make a jig etc. He passed also.

[DJH]

Yeah, I had to curb my enthusiasm a little.  Still, trans and rear end went back together quite nicely. Nearly back to rolling chassis.  Was able to source a new radiator as well for $350 (which I think isnt too bad)

[shiny_car]

Very nice spruce-up.

[DJH]

Thanks Shiny - starting to get pretty close.  Back on its wheels and the engine bay has been given a decent clean up and the re-built engine is pretty close to being dropped in.  I know that a lot of the twin sparks seem to have lost their spark plug covers, but I think they look pretty good on it.  Wish Id seen the detail on your transaxle re-build before mine was done!

[DJH]

A few more pics as it is getting close to start up.  One problem seems to be that even with a new battery there doesnt seem to be any power - didnt have any issues before  Will go through the usual suspects but any hints greatly appreciated (be a bit of a shame to put it on the back of a trailer for its first outing)

[GTVeloce]

Engine looks great!

When you say no power, what exactly do you mean? You reference the battery so I'm assuming you are referring to electrical power to the engine. If you are getting power to the rest of the chassis i.e. lights etc then you have three main suspects. There is a power wire that fees the ECU. It should connect to the battery. Have you connected the earth between the engine and battery/chassis? Finally, the green/black wire that goes between the the ignition switch and relay 4 (IIRC) in the engine bay. This wire feeds those four relays when you switch the key on.

On my car it became faulty and caused me all sorts of headaches. I finally created a new (thicker) wire to replace it and everything was honky dory.

[DJH]

Thanks GTV

Yes, definitely electrical power (nothing at all).  Thanks for the tips, will report back. 

Some pics of the exhaust system in the meantime.  All fluids going back in the car now.

[Beatle]

Really nice work (and pics).  And might I also add you seem to have one very well resourced workshop!!! 

[Paul Gulliver]

Looking good . What sort of exhaust system are you running and where did you source it