Twin Spark Cup 156 Project

[Craig_m67]

The twinspark used by Alfaholics (Alfa75, 155, 164, etal) bears no relationship to the twinspark used in the 147/156/GT.  It's a completely different engine, with a completely different lineage (heritage)

[bazzbazz]

That's an expanding band clamp (It goes by many names).

Basically to release it you press down on both the rectangular protrusions, this releases the internal metal bands from the groove in the pipe spigot on the radiator.

To refit it you just push it on and it clips into the groove, there is a rubber O-Ring in the fitting that seals the connection.

Unfortunately in your attempt to get it off you appear to have damaged the clamp. To be honest if I were you I would purchase a new lower radiator hose (it comes with a new fitting already attached), as when they get old the sealing O-Ring has a tendency not to seal well again once disturbed and can leak.

As it's going to be a track car, you don't want upset the track marshals by dumping coolant all over the track. 

And yes, you can continue to use the green coolant green, just make sure you give the radiator AND the block a good flush.

[bazzbazz]

So figured I would spend some time on finishing up a few things. Trial fit of 60s le mans 24 hour race car livery .

Well if you're ever coming up behind someone on the track they can't say they didn't see you coming . . . . . the guys on the ISS could see you coming! 

[warsch]

The speedlines are the sturdiest of 156/147/GT stock wheels. I have a set, but one is slightly buckled nonetheless. Ti wheels are the lightest of 17", 2 kg lighter than speedlines.

Though you'd eventually want a set of 16" to fit within TS cup regs.

It's been 17 pages, so I forgot if you've got tires already or not. So I can recommend Hankook RS4 or Sailun Atrezza. Both work well on track and are cheap. Hankook will last a bit more but is more expensive too.

[Colin Edwards]

I'm curious as to how much car mass has been lost as a result of the fairly comprehensive shedding of material.
Did you weigh the car prior to hacking in to it? 
The club has corner weight scales if you want weigh the car.  Just need to find a very flat surface.

[warsch]

I'm curious as to how much car mass has been lost as a result of the fairly comprehensive shedding of material.
Did you weigh the car prior to hacking in to it? 
The club has corner weight scales if you want weigh the car.  Just need to find a very flat surface.

My 156 is give or take in the same condition and it weights 1130 kg with full tank but there's still some stuff to be removed. We've got a competitor here with full on race 156 and it weighs 1050 kg with a roll cage

[warsch]

I bought the control tyre for the ts cup but obviously can't race it due to the size of the wheel. May as well get used it on sprints.

Warsch you are right about the rear pads being pretty useless. These were down to the metal and I couldn't tell on the drive home when I bought the car .

Regardless car is on the home stretch as will be ready for Phillip Island in a couple weeks as it's going to Maureci Motors to get the bucket seat and harness installed, timing belt and water pump and wheel alignment. Just ran out of time to do the timing belt etc myself.

Federals are a good choice, though for some strange reason they never appealed to me. 225 is a tad wide for 7" wide rim, but they'll be fine. The paint on the wheels looks quite good.

Good luck with your first outing, please make some pictures and videos and share

[Colin Edwards]

I'm curious as to how much car mass has been lost as a result of the fairly comprehensive shedding of material.
Did you weigh the car prior to hacking in to it? 
The club has corner weight scales if you want weigh the car.  Just need to find a very flat surface.

I am happy to weigh the car Colin. If you are at Phillip Island at the AROCA sprint than we could set them up? I took out the foam bumper bits behind the bumper, most of the dash is gone etc

I'll be at PI on the 21st.  I can bring the scales.  Make sure you bring a good trolley jack that will pick up one half of the car at a time.  Have you booked a garage?  The floors in the garages under the main grandstands aren't too bad. 

[bazzbazz]

Also here are the jack points that I am using for the rear. Found it by digging through threads. Disclaimer this isn't safety advice.

Just for future reference, that is not a good place to jack the car, as the rear suspension mount that you are using is made of alloy and bolted to the chassis at the ends, thus the center section is unsupported. I mention all this as people have cracked them in the past by using them as jack points.

Just thought I should mention it.

Have fun at the track, and do try and keep it upright. 

[warsch]

Wanted to research the touring cars weight and there is a book on it already. Amazon have some 2nd hand copies at a good price.

I have this book, it's a nice one but don't expect too much technical stuff to look up in it

[warsch]

I've got this one:
https://www.repco.com.au/en/tools-equipment/automotive-tools/braking/gearwrench-rear-brake-caliper-set-11pc-41540/p/A9716200

It works alright, though the older caliper that you have is more annoying to wind than newer ones

You need to wind and push at the same time which this tool does

[warsch]

I have a bag of calipers, but even though I have a set one like these, but one is half-seized too, caused the car to veer under braking. So I think the left one is stuffed.

I installed a set from facelift 147. Same rotor diameter but different caliper and pad.

[bazzbazz]

Could be any number of things, besides the obvious that you've already mentioned. 

How long has it been since you last started it?

Diagnostics would hopefully give you an idea as to what would be wrong, otherwise it's all "taking potshots in the dark" guessing as to what it could be.

I'll start it all off with "Any fuel in the tank" ? 

[bazzbazz]

Golden nugget of wisdom: Do not cut out the fuel cut off switch/wiring under the seat. This would make sense why it doesn't want to start and when cranking the fuel injector dash light warning is going on and off.

So the thought "I wonder what this does?" never entered your head as you were cutting the wires? 

[bazzbazz]

I had this diagram which showed it wasn't an earth cable.

Actually it IS an earth cable. The "Fuel Cut Off" switch works by opening the earth wire for the fuel pump.

"We're gonna need a bigger wiring diagram!"