Twin Spark Cup 156 Project

[Colin Edwards]

Zero toe would be a good place to start, however the regs allow you to replace the factory bushes with polyurethane.  Not much point playing around with toe settings if the respective bushes allow the suspension geometry to move around like an overcooked noodle.  Go for poly bushes that allow caster and camber adjustment.  Heaps of caster is a good place to start.

Given the 156 wants to naturally understeer, making the best use of the front tyres is fundamental to sorting a FWD car.  An increase in rear roll stiffness can dial out bit of understeer / dial in a bit of mid corner oversteer.  The regs mention 400lb springs at the rear.  The Eibach springs should have a part number painted on them - this will detail the spring rate.  If they are under 400lb you will probably be at a disadvantage.

I cant advise on tyre pressures.  Give John B a call?  But purchase the best pressure gauge you can afford. 

I have one of these.
https://www.alfano.com.au/product/alfano-tyre-control-2-pressure-gauge-inc-temp-sensor-probe/

[warsch]

Zero toe would be a good place to start, however the regs allow you to replace the factory bushes with polyurethane.  Not much point playing around with toe settings if the respective bushes allow the suspension geometry to move around like an overcooked noodle.  Go for poly bushes that allow caster and camber adjustment.  Heaps of caster is a good place to start.

Given the 156 wants to naturally understeer, making the best use of the front tyres is fundamental to sorting a FWD car.  An increase in rear roll stiffness can dial out bit of understeer / dial in a bit of mid corner oversteer.  The regs mention 400lb springs at the rear.  The Eibach springs should have a part number painted on them - this will detail the spring rate.  If they are under 400lb you will probably be at a disadvantage.

156/147 don't really need adjustable bushes, the camber increases with lowering the car. So my car has good -2.5 at the front with simple polybushes in top arms and just new lower arms. I do have all the rear polybushed though, and it's nice, but not really needed.

Eibach spring are nowhere near 400 lbs, they are like 30% more stiff than stock.

[warsch]

What about a good wheel alignment spec? The Bushes and sway bars are factory. It has red eibach springs but not sure about Shocks. Wheels are the alfa 17s with 225 45 17 federal rsr semi slicks. The car is not registered so can go aggresive on the wheel alignment without making it a pig to drive.

What about tyre pressures?

Tire pressure you'd have to work out yourself for your tires, tarmac temp, car weight etc. I run about 30 psi hot in Yoko AD08R in the same size. And 32-34 hot in Hankook RS4 215/45r17.

If bushes are good, I don't think it's worth to go polyurethane, but if you have spare cash, it does add to better response.

As already said - neutral toe is a good start, front camber will be ok when you lower your car, and I'd try to set about the same at rear.

Eibach with stock shocks is way too soft for track duties. Cheap coilovers are the way to go, in my opinion. You can get a set of DGR coilovers delivered for AUD 1250. They are track proven in 156 and are a control suspension for Hot Hatch cup here in QLD.

[warsch]

This is from the twin spark cup regulations:

You probably have to run that, true. But then your current suspension won't allow you to run for points there either. But I think you still can participate. I'm from QLD though, and sadly we don't have the number for TS cup. You better check with their orgs, I'm sure some are here in other thread/sections.

[Craig_m67]

Dry ice

Buy a couple of bags, place it on the floor, chip it all up, works a treat (did for me)
Should be able to get dry ice from your local fisho shop as they use it in esky's (chilly bins, etc)
Make sure to leave the doors open and ventilate


Heat just makes it sticky and leaves residue
Dry ice takes it off and leaves behind a perfect (primed/painted) surface

[bazzbazz]

Thanks. Is that safe to go near the wires as I haven't taken out the main wiring looms going down the side of the car?

Yes, as long as you keep the chisel away from the wires, and don't try to bend the wires when frozen (snap).

[bazzbazz]

Yes, in the 156 all the yellow sheathed cables are airbag related. The silver box you refer to is the Airbag ECU.

I'd keep the heater, as it works in conjunction with the A/C to defog. Besides, if you end up doing a 24hr or something similar in the middle of winter you'll curse yourself for removing it.

[alanm]

Hey Alfatango, I look forward to seeing you on the track – hopefully in the near future what with lockdowns and everything.

I was just catching up on this thread and wanted to acknowledge Colin's suggestion to limit your revs. Over the last 2 or 3 years I have witnessed the demise of roughly 10 TS's, mostly bottom end failures, in my own case a broken valve spring (if I remember correctly).
Not entirely surprising given their age, I guess. One Alfa specialist has suggested, as Colin said, that sustained revs at the limiter are to be avoided – I guess this is a track specific issue – holding 2nd gear at Winton short track turns 5, 6 and 7? – I have'nt driven there for a while!

Watching Twins Spark Cup cars in action in the UK I am blown away by the sustained high revs, but I'm guessing that these are purpose built engines, within the competition guidlines?

Food for thought!
Al.

[bazzbazz]

Thanks Bazz. Can I remove the airbag ecu now that all air bags have been removed?

Yes

[alanm]

Hi Alfatango, no I am not using a rev limiter, I had not considered anything to supplement the factory limiter until Colin suggested it in this thread.
I sprint my son's 147 very occasionally and am happy to reside at the slowest end of the lap times – a bit like you I'm not out there to challenge for the fastest lap time, my objective is to have a fun day and drive the car home after the event. 
The car is on its second engine after an engine failure at Winton whilst my son was driving, and I don't want to pay for number 3!
My son on the other hand is a little more exuberant (as you are when you're 22), and I reckon that a device to limit the revs to about 6,100 is a really good idea.
Colin, maybe you could elaborate on the best way to do this?

The other way to go about this is to go for it, and to accept that you might need to replace the engine at some stage. Imlachs wreckers have TS cars coming and going all the time and you can buy a complete second hand engine for $240 if you know what you are doing (I don't)  It is racing after all...

Cheers,
Al.

[Colin Edwards]

Probably less expensive and certainly easier to install would be shift lights - something along the lines of below.  An incompatible or poorly installed rev limiter can cause no end of dramas!

https://ecliptech.com.au/shift-p2/

Factory tachos can also drift out of calibration as they age.  Given your 156 is now unroadworthy, maybe you could get it on your trailer and drop into your local Auto Elec to have the tacho accuracy checked. 

[warsch]

After a few events at the same track you would know the shifting points, so you can just upshift earlier. Otherwise a shift light would do. I'm sure you can hit a limiter a couple of times to tweak the tacho/limiter. TS is not that fragile.

I'm also curious what's different about VIC and NSW track which makes them destroy engines whereas mine works just fine here in QLD. Or maybe I'm just lucky or Penrite Racing oils are really good.

Either way, a TS engine costs about as a pair of cheaper tires.

[alanm]

Yes those shift lights are cool, make a very nice birthday present I think!
Re. TS second hand engine costs, I got prices ranging from $1200 to $250 (installation costs of course on top of that).
For $1200 you might buy an engine that's already been removed from a low klm car, known to a Alfa specialist with a documented service history and (maybe) a couple of months warranty. For a $250 engine you need to know what you are doing! Tip: don't remove it from a car with no body damage – chances are it's broken a cam belt!
Just wanted to qualify what I said in my previous post!
Cheers,
Al.

[warsch]

Starting to look like a race car.

Nice - I still have a set of rims like that and same rotors. Also my 156 is same colour, albeit it's all sunburnt now.

[Craig_m67]

Just as a side note, I have noticed how much it is easier to work on cars with higher quality youtube videos compared to even 10 years ago. Working off forums with no pictures and videos was hard. No idea how you guys used to do it pre 90s. Magazines had articles but it wasn't a very dynamic process where you could ask questions. Even buying tools is so much easier now with ebay or Bunnings stocking kinchrome stuff etc.

Dude, we were smarter

(and invented the internet and youtube to make it easier .. and porn)