wtb Alfetta heater junction

[AlfaACT]

The attached pic is of a heater junction from the rear of the engine on a 12 valve V6.

As pictured, the lower port "L" goes to the rear of the LHS head, the port on the right "M" goes to the tap on the heater matrix. The small top port "T" goes to the cooling system's header tank.

Advice on where to source a replacement would be appreciated.

Dimensions need to be:
"L" = 12mm;
"M" = 16mm;
"T" = 7mm.

Note, these dimensions are not pictured, but they do accord with the components that they connect to!   

[MD]

If you cannot source an original part, get a plumber to make one up for you or make one up yourself from barbed brass tube connectors and a junction block.

[ALFAAA]

Hi Guys,
Your local radiator repair shop can make these.
Regards

[AlfaACT]

Thanks guys,

As I couldn't find one, I did go down the brass fitting route. See attached.

The problem (as I see it) is that a) it is very bulky (especially for a crowded space) and b) it is quite heavy 25g vs 120g!
Given that the fitting is unsupported i.e. it just dangles on the hoses, I am loath to fit the brass replacement, as I suspect that it is bound to cause pain later!

The radiator shop might be the go, but my last experience - getting them to manufacture the "T" piece on the radiator outlet hose was less than ideal! (You can now get plastic replacements for these! I have one fitted and a spare in the shed.)

Option D: learn to weld?

[bazzbazz]

Well at least you know the brass item will last forever, and ever, and ever . . . . .

Is there anywhere near where it is fitted that you could mount a small support for it?

[MD]

Peter,
I am starting to get a little concerned that you have been in Covid isolation a little too long. You are dispensing with a perfect lifetime brass connection because of 95gms !! Snappin Ducks !! Your house keys in your pocket would weight more..
Add another 5 gms for a zip tie and your done.

BTW-you cannot weld copper.

[Beatle]

Thanks guys,
The problem (as I see it) is that a) it is very bulky (especially for a crowded space) and b) it is quite heavy 25g vs 120g!
Given that the fitting is unsupported i.e. it just dangles on the hoses, I am loath to fit the brass replacement.

The extra mass won't hurt anything.  Reinforced heater hose is very strong (high pressure fuel hose even stronger).

And I'm sure there would be a rust hole somewhere that will give you back the 95g.......  :-)

[AlfaACT]

"And I'm sure there would be a rust hole somewhere ... "
Nope!

And I just dont like the idea of that large dangly brass mass in my engine bay!

[Craig_m67]

Sooooo... make it out of poly fittings (irrigation, Bunnings)

Any reason it has to be brass?

[MD]

My last go.
Get a TIG welder to make one out of stainless steel tube. A mounting bracket can also be welded onto that part to support the assembly and not only hold itself in position but your hoses too. It will also outlast your car and your hoses.

To compensate for the weight, go easy on the Macca diet for week...

[AlfaACT]

Thanks MD, will do.

Bazz,
The elbow is connected to the back of the head by a very short piece of hose that effectively creates a rigid connection - head to elbow. There isn't really any need to tie the elbow to anything else as long as it is light weight - like the original.

[Beatle]

I'm not convinced that the brass solution would 'dangle'?  As you say, it's plugged to the engine via a very short piece of heater hose.  Add the other two hoses, cut to the correct length, and I don't see how it would move perceptibly more than the original elbow. 

Only the actual square block part will remain visible as the barbs will be inside the respective hoses.  Maybe a spray with black etch primer to hide it?  You could dress the square edges on a linisher/file so it looks more rounded (and reduce the mass).

And to allay your concerns that the heavier elbow might somehow cause a hose to fail, I had a Glynd hot water heat exchanger under the bonnet of my Landcruiser for years and it was only supported by the heater hoses fitted to each end.  It was approx 300mm long and significantly heavier than the elbow described here but the hoses alone kept it nicely located, and they were axially aligned with the heat exchanger where your elbow has the added benefit of an additional hose at right angles for extra support.

Granted the hoses were larger diameter (3/8"?) but I never had a hose fail or exhibit any indication of kinking and it bounced around in Top End heat on many dirt roads. 

Actually a larger dia hose is likely at greater risk of failure than a smaller diameter hose (lower pressure tolerance and a lesser diameter to wall thickness ratio). 

[Beatle]

Another option:

Can you remove the barb from the head and make the elbow a solid screw in fitting? 

The elbow is then rigidly supported, you remove the short hose (a possible fail point) and potentially give you additional clearance around the elbow.

[AlfaACT]

Another option:

Can you remove the barb from the head and make the elbow a solid screw in fitting? 

The elbow is then rigidly supported, you remove the short hose (a possible fail point) and potentially give you additional clearance around the elbow.

Interesting idea Beatle.
In which case it would not need to be an elbow, it could be a straight pipe with a small branch (for the header tank connection) near the end. But ... the threaded hole in the back of the head is recessed about 100mm forward of the rear edge of the head, see pic. The pipe would need to be long enough for the branch to clear the back of the head and getting it pointing in the correct direction might be a further challenge.