3l GTV6 PRC project

[pep105]

Greg,

Uni Cup diameter is 24 mm (using my sophisticated measuring equipment   CMM   )

Tailshaft Flange PCD is 4 x 75 mm, probably not of interest to you as youll use the 105 diff flange

Hope this helps

Pep

P.S By the way only issue is dont have a diff flange for you to see out of the car

[redalfaracing]

Thanks Pep, I will be stretched to get away from work in time as it is, probaby won't have time to visit you in Port Melbourne as well. Happy to hear that it is 24 mm though.



Assuming that the 105 rear diff flange and uni will fit, does anyone have an opinion as to whether it will take, say 250 hp?

[redalfaracing]

And so it has finally come to pass.

I have been watching the discussion about "Club Rally Cars". Tonight i have searched around CAMS and found the attached file in the 2010 CAMS Manual of Motorsport.

Basically it means i can put a 3.0 litre 24 valve engine in my GTV6 and run in all road events excepting national and international events.

I could even use a 3.2 GTA engine if i could find one! (at a reasonable cost)

So, i have bought a 3.0l 24v  engine from a 166, pick it up in a couple of weeks.

Love to hear from anyone who has fitted a 24v to a GTV6, things to look out for,etc.


FUN TO BE HAD!!!!!!   

[redalfaracing]

And, looking at the 2010 PRC regulations, forest flares are now legal and replacement bolt on panels in composite or aluminium.

might be an interesting year for rally!

[redalfaracing]

can anyone tell me if the 3.2 gta cams are different to the 3.0 24v cams, and are they interchangable?

[Jekyll and Hyde]

can anyone tell me if the 3.2 gta cams are different to the 3.0 24v cams, and are they interchangable?

Only the inlet cams are different, exhaust cams are the same but timed slightly differently.  And yes, GTA inlet cams will go into a 3.0.

[redalfaracing]

Only the inlet cams are different, exhaust cams are the same but timed slightly differently.  And yes, GTA inlet cams will go into a 3.0.

Thanks Jekyll and Hyde, and would the difference in performance make it worth the effort or are there better cams available? Bearing in mind i am not after fire breathing top end performance, just a good power spread that revs out cleanly.

[Jekyll and Hyde]

Don't know how much power increase you would expect if running an aftermarket computer.  I think the guys that have done this (usually in 916 series GTVs) would be lucky to see 10kw at the wheels with rechipping - check around the UK forums for details.

I've been looking at Newman cams for mine, they have a range of 'fast road' cams on offer at about 600 pounds a cam  .  Colombo and Bariani also do various cams for the 24v, but at a much higher price.  Just at the moment, I may get shot on sight by certain individuals around here if I were to spend $2500 on cams for mine, so its a good thing I haven't yet managed to talk myself into it.  As such, no useful information on these offerings..... yet.

To be honest though, from memory you were pretty happy with the amount of power when you took the 2.5 12v for a squirt, and with a 3.0 24v on board running an aftermarket ECU you will have close to double the power and a huge increase in torque and rev range. 

  If I were you, I'd just focus on getting the engine in and running first, then if you reckon you need more power deal with it at that stage.  It's not too hard to get at the heads when fitted into a GTV, so swapping camshafts would be easy later on... And having looked very carefully at the heads on mine when it was apart, I doubt you'd get any huge gains from porting without a serious amount of other work going on - they are very well designed from the factory, and I believe shouldn't hamper a performance camshaft to any great extent if at all.

[redalfaracing]

Great advice, i am going to spend my time getting the composite tailshaft and 24v engine up and running. Although if i happen to chance upon some GTA inlet cams b4 the engine goes in, i will fit them. so much easier on the engine stand than bending over the engine bay. Don't you think?

Going to Sydney next week to pick up the 24v engine and a Corolla shell for another rally guy. will have an empty car trailer on the way up if someone wants anything delivered to Sydney for a share of the fuel, let me know.

[redalfaracing]

wondering if this 24v engine will have a dual mass flywheel fitted as standard ( from a 2003 166) and do these flywheels have a history of failing , or are they a reliable thing? I know the Subaru RS that ran a rally series had them as standard, they gave so much trouble they had to change the series rules to allow them to be changed to a solid flywheel. Are the Alfa ones rubbish ? or built better? Any one know?

Thanks Greg

[Fylnn]

Greg,

Just in the process of running the fuel system in my PRC GTV6.  I was going to put the fuel pump with a lift pump and surge tank in the boot and pipe it through the cabin.  But I just noticed the fabulous new rules for fuel pipes in Schedule R of the CAMS manual, and it has to be 70 bar braided line and crimp, threaded or whatever connectors.  This means all new pumps, tanks, filters and incredibly expensive hoses.  Probably $2K without even thinking about it.

I assume from the photos you are running the standard fuel flow-return system with fuel lines, pump and filter under the car.  Is that correct?  Part of me says it is a bit vulnerable but has survived 25 years and if retain original system then lots cheaper.

Peter

[david sammartino]

 "( from a 2003 166)", to answer your comment id say that the 166 was more than likely an automatic car so wouldnt have a dual mass flywheel.

[redalfaracing]

I assume from the photos you are running the standard fuel flow-return system with fuel lines, pump and filter under the car.  Is that correct?  Part of me says it is a bit vulnerable but has survived 25 years and if retain original system then lots cheaper.

Peter, no i am not running standard fuel system. I wasn't happy about fuel thingys dangling below the car. My GTV6 had the battery in the rear. At first i was going to remove the battery box to save a few kg's, but then i thought it would be a great place to hide the surge tank, pump and filter. if you look at the pic you will notice a vapour proof cover on the old battery box, with some pipes and a cable conduit coming from the LHS. New system works flawlessly.

I am not up to speed with schedule r in the new manual. i was led to believe that if there are no joins in the fuel line in the cabin of the car, as long as it is adequately protected ( wrapped with say, hydraulic hose wrapping) what i have done is ok. I will check with a scruitineer though. Thanks for the heads up.

[redalfaracing]

"( from a 2003 166)", to answer your comment id say that the 166 was more than likely an automatic car so wouldnt have a dual mass flywheel.

David, have picked up the new engine, and you are correct. Just a drive plate for an auto.
I have to say, engine looks a serious bit of gear. just have to get it out of the ute tomorrow and have a decent look at it.

Keep you posted.

[redalfaracing]

Peter, from my friend Dale ( scruutineer level 3) no need for the stuff you were talking about unless you are doing FIA events. New from last year, allowed to have bulkhead joiners ( previously banned) rubber braided hoses and steel bundy tube ok but must be well clipped ( no rubbing on metal fittings or panels) and pressure side must have hose clamps not clips. Spend your $2k on something else you need.

hope that allays your fears.