Heater Hose

Tim Jobson · July 06, 2009, 08:08:14 PM

I have just refitted my heater with new tap and hoses as the PO had disconnected it (probably too lazy to lie on his back for hours and scrap his fingers getting the heater box clips off)

When fitting the new hose that goes from the heater to the front of the engine, I was wondering where the original position the hose was routed. I am guessing that it must come out of the firewall and fit along the right side of the engine bay as you can see from the picture, it looks as if there was a hose clamp near this area originally.. is this correct? or does it go straight under the carbys?

I also noticed a small hole at the bottom of the air filter housing that looked blocked, I guess this is to drain excessive fuel away, what sort of fitting is it??

Regards

Tim

1750GTV · July 07, 2009, 08:42:47 PM

Hi Tim,
I've attached a couple of photos of my air intake plenum and a spare one I found in the shed - I even managed to clean a bit of the crap off it so you can see the detail better.

The one on my car - original - has a small drainage hole as you describe. On the other end is a long piece of black plastic pipe that pushes on to the nipple on the underside and dangles down near the steering box. Nothing fancy.

The second plenum does not have a hole. It was off a Series I 1750GTV and I don't know why there is a difference.

As you said, it is there to drain excess liquid fuel. Under normal circumstances, because these carbies are mounted with about a 5 degree downward tilt (toward the manifold) fuel should not collect. If however your floats don't float you may get raw fuel in the plenum with the attendant fire risk. When I rebuilt my carbies, this hole was blocked - it is now unblocked and probably about as useful as it was originally

As to the heater hose, mine is draped along the RHS as shown. It seems to have always been like that. My engine bay is unrestored and there is a definite colour difference under the hose.

Hope this helps,
Chris

Tim Jobson · July 07, 2009, 10:13:29 PM

Thanks for the photos Chris, I will place the hose in that spot and make up a couple of hose clamps where mine have broken off.

The drain hole looks so small in the carby inlet box, will probably drill out the contamination and fit a retic hose underneath.

Your carbys look great and a neat engine bay, I have along way to go yet before my dellortos get a clean up!!

Thanks again for the help, will try to keep you updated on work I am doing as you seem to be doing similar things, ie; I need shock absorbers and am interested in your post regarding Koni yellows for the front and Reds at the rear!!

Regards

Tim

1750GTV · July 08, 2009, 08:00:21 AM

It didn't take that much effort to clean them - just lots of time, in between everything else.

At some stage soon, I want to rebuild the suspension. I was going to do it around Easter but my Mum got really sick so it's been put back a few months.

Chris

Tim Jobson · July 13, 2009, 03:12:13 PM

Hi Chris, trust your mum and your car are better now.

Noticed during my usual Saturday play on my car an electrical wire coming out of the steering box, is this for the horns? and have you settled on yellow front/red rear konis? and if so what you you ask for when shopping around for them, ie; is there a part number for them?

Regards

Tim

1750GTV · July 13, 2009, 08:59:11 PM

Thanks for your kind thoughts - the car is OK but Mum passed away peacefully after what most would euphemistically call 'a brave fight'. The family have grieved and are quietly moving on. Please don't feel bad about this - it's nice to talk about it now.

As to your wire - yes, that is the connection to the horn relay. Pushing the horn on the steering wheel earths this wire, closes the relay and activates the twin horns. Somewhere in the shed I've got an old, but perfectly functional, pair of FIAMM air horns and pump - if you want to wake up the neighbourhood on a Sunday morning, these will do it

I haven't thought much about the suspension for a while, but I think what most people do is fit the stiffer shocks on the front with the softer ones on the rear. That way you don't have your teeth shaken out.

I'm told that Vin Sharp at Pace Engineering (03 9844 0147) is the guy to talk to for all things that squeak and rattle. I should give him a call soon as I'm looking for something to do on the weekends. Maybe I just need to buy another late 60s Fiat Bambino

How did you go with the fuel drain hole in the intake plenum ? I got all inspired on the weekend and completely cleaned that half dirty one that I photographed a week ago - you can literally drink soup out of it now.

Regards,
Chris

Tim Jobson · July 14, 2009, 10:36:42 AM

Having lost my mother 11 years ago unexpectantly I feel for your loss. It does make you sit back and take stock of the meaning of family and not take things for granted. ( She always used to call me the grease monkey of the family!)

I have removed the air box and drilled the hole out, fitted a new drain pipe and found the air box was missing a couple of studs, will probably fit a ss screw if I cannot find a stud to match.

Thanks again

Tim

1750GTV · July 15, 2009, 09:40:54 PM

The studs should be easily available at any carby shop.

How did you go with your doors and 1/4 windows?

Chris

Tim Jobson · July 16, 2009, 06:36:46 PM

The doors I got to fit nice and flush with the body, I will think again about how to best align the left door quarter window frame when I start to fit new door seals, too far down the track to worry about this yet, plenty more issues to deal with at present.

The doors are back off and I have finished welding one sill on, next are the small repair panels that fit over each end. It has taken me a while to learn how best to drive my doggy second hand welder! I made one mistake by POR15 too much of the sills inside where the welding occurs, it heats up and runs out like tar!

So much to do....so little time!!

Regards

Tim

Sportscar Nut · July 17, 2009, 03:11:27 PM

Tim

Where did you get the heater core tap from as I need to replace mine? Appreciate any information.

Regards
Paul

1750GTV · July 17, 2009, 08:43:34 PM

Paul,
The heater taps are available from Alfa spares parts dealers (eg: Alfaholics in GB) though they are expensive. The early ones were metal while the later ones were plastic.

You could try the local dealers for new or second hand ones.

Turin Imports (South Australia) 1800 888 225
Milano Spares (Victoria) 03 9462 2138
The Spare Place (South Australia) 08 8212 3505
Avanti Spares (Queensland) 07 3266 6623

Hope this helps,
Chris

Tim Jobson · July 17, 2009, 09:10:00 PM

Paul, I got mine from Alfaholics however it was removing the heater box that was the painful part.

Those clips at the front are such a swine to refit, there must be a better way!

Regards

Tim

cjheath · July 19, 2009, 11:39:59 AM

Quote from: Tim Jobson on July 17, 2009, 09:10:00 PM

There's only one sensible way to work on the heaters in 105's, and that's to first remove the dash... speaking as someone who did it the other way the first time. The dash comes out pretty easily once you know how.

Sportscar Nut · July 19, 2009, 07:53:48 PM

Thanks all for the feedback; much appreciated.

I have a perfect original dashboard to go in the car so will change the heater core/ tap when the dash is out. Purchased a tap from Alfaholics for 40 pounds which I thought was okay. Take the advice on the clips too...look forward to the challenge!

The dashboard in my car is in good condition (original with around 5 cracks repaired) as the car has won 3 show'n'shines at AROCA Vic Spectacollos. Would be an easy repair to make perfect if anyone is interested (make an offer).

Also on the hunt for original NOS Carello front lights. Have one new inner and unfortunately Alfaholics just sold their last original inner light. Any ideas anyone? Maybe will get other reconditioned.

Thanks again.