My 84 GTV 2L EV Project

[MD]

All dehne has said plus undo the 6 transaxle crossmember bolts and lower away from propshaft to separate donut from flange otherwise the shaft cannot move backwards to come away from the front flywheel and be removed. Keep an eye on the clutch slave cylinder as you do or disconnect it from the tranny.

,,and last of all, pull yer finger out. We're all waiting to see what other fouls ups you come up with... ha haa.

[TheConverted]

Well, yesterday I removed the 3 rear prop bolts/nuts, then the 3 flywheel prop nuts and then 2 centre prop support nuts. It won't come out because there is no play at the gearbox end, as MD said, the gearbox crossmember mount bolts need to be removed to allow some slack. Which will be next weeks adventure.
I think trying to jimmy it out with a screw driver, or similar, will destroy the rubber couplings at both ends.
One note, the nuts at the flywheel end were a bitch to undo, because you cant get a ring spanner around the nut (due to it being so close to the end of the propshaft), and a socket (17mm) just half fits into the nut. Can anyone offer any tips when bolting it back on?

[TheConverted]

Thanks Choderboy, it will be sometime before it gets bolted back together.

It seems that an open end spanner is the only way, but I have my doubts on how much torque will be applied to tighten these nuts, if you get what I mean.

[TheConverted]

After a few weeks of life getting in the way of this project I had another look at removing the propshaft but without much success.

I removed the 6 bolts that hold the front of the transaxle sub frame to the body, but this did not give enough slack for the propshaft to slide out.

The only way I can see how the propshaft is coming out is by moving the engine forward, or by removing the 3 studs that join the propshaft and the gearbox shafts via the rubber coupler. See picture below. I did manage  to remove one of the studs but the other two will not budge.

I am wondering if the rubber coupler can be removed from the gearbox shaft? Or are they  permanately joined together? See arrow in picture.

[Mat Francis]

Undo the flexible clutch line from the body (have a few rags and a container ready, it can get messy if you're not careful), undo the speedo cable and reverse switch cable from the gearbox (sensor things just pull off, speedo cable is a 13mm screw, then the cable slides out). I am also assuming you have detached the gear linkage.

Now get your jack and raise the rear of the di dion tube. with the front 6 cross member bolts detached, this will lower the whole front of the assembly, and the propshaft will come away from the clutch on it's own.

You have already removed way more from the coupling than you need to; removing the 3 bolts from the clutch spider to the donut is sufficient.

Any guesses what i have done four times in the last week? 

[TheConverted]

Thanks for the fast replies you blokes. There is no room in the budget for a workshop manual choderboy, I was hoping you blokes would be my workshop manual,  I will give what Mat recommended ago. However, Im starting to think that the whole of the transaxle maybe coming out to remove the bloody engine soon....LOL.
Im also thinking it may have been an easier option to just remove the engine without the bellhousing now.

[Mat Francis]

Whilst i'm happy to give advice where i can, (everyone knows i need as much as i can get  ), i strongly agree with Choder.
A manual might cost you $50, but given the amount of time i'm guessing the lack having one has cost you so far, and with no smart arse attitude or disrespect intended (it's probably coming across like that in the text here), ideas like taking the bellhousing off to remove the engine are going to cost you much much MUCH more time than i could ever justify for $50. And i'm a student, with much more spare time (and less money) than most people 

[dehne]

if you get a large screwdriver and use it to gently jemmy it out ive NEVER destroyed a donut yet and it will take you a couple on mins all the other info about removing clutch stuff and wiring is not nessecary but if you like i can lend you my workshop manual but ill have to post it up to you
* just a note you can pull a tailshalft out in about 20mins this includes pulling exhaust of just remember you only need to undo the bare minumim of bolts ie 3 bolts front 2 centre bearing 3 rear you can just loosen 6 crossmember bolts makes it easier to put back in, jemmy centre bearing off the rear forward
but i saying that ive done heaps of them and ur in for a first but once you have done one you will be a pro at it and you also will work out easier ways

[TheConverted]

I am wondering if the rubber coupler can be removed from the gearbox shaft? Or are they  permanately joined together? See arrow in picture.

Just to clarify my question, does the rubber 'donut' seperate from the gearbox shaft?

Thanks Dehne, I did apply some pressure with a largish screw driver to gemmy it out.  But looking at the above picture, I cant see how that would work if the rubber donut does not seperate from the gearbox shaft. If it does, I need to apply more force to gemmy it out. Can you (or others) confirm if this is the case?

Oh! Regarding how long it takes, Im not to concerned about the time wasted, I enjoy the challenge, its after all a hobby, and not a living. My time is very cheap.

[MD]

Follow previous instructions to lower the transaxles and cross member from the body work but first put back the three nuts that fix the donut to the prop shaft engine side and be sure the nuts fixing to the clutch input shaft flange are off.

As the transmission lowers from the the body work, the coupling will come away from the flange. By all means give it come assistance with a lever and turn the shaft around to create an even prompting all round.

If that doesn't do it, I suggest some C4 and stand well back...

[meizhak]

get it out already.

[TheConverted]

get it out already.

Thats not what the missus is saying....LOL

Thanks for clarifying MD, I will give that ago.

[TheConverted]

Ok you blokes, its finally out. That prop at the rear was a mongrel to get out, what a crappy design.

The engine was a breeze, came out in minutes, single handedly too.

Thanks for all the tips gents.

Some pictures below.

Next step is to give the whole engine bay and under carriage a good degrease. There also seems to be alot of grease/oil all over the transaxle, that will come out for a good clean and inspection.

One good surprise from the GTV is the propshaft rubber couplings, I think these will make a good vibration free adaption to the electric motor.

[Mat Francis]

The only reason the rear of the prop was a mongrel was because you did it wrong 

From the car being completely assembled and drivable, dad and i had the clutch out, and dismantled on the bench in 45 minutes last Friday. A competent mechanic could probably do it in about half an hour. I certainly don't see any problem in the design

[BradGTV]

i agree with choderboy...
having not worked on alfas before the first thing i did was by a manual made the job a hell of a lot eaier,
and i bought it of ebay for $15.