Spider purchase tips

[edavund]

Hi, my first post as a newbie to this forum, greetings all. I'm looking for some real world tips on early '70-74 Spiders (Aust. delivery), there's a couple of candidates I'm currently considering. Apart from body issues, my main concern is what is the practical life of the 2000 motor & gearbox/drivetrain, assuming a non-thrashed history (Are there visual clues to an 'untouched' original motor apart from obvious gasket disturbance?). I'm mechanically & body/rust literate, but more at 'home' with UK makes of same age. I'd also welcome some budgetary estimates on engine/gearbox rebuilds/key failure areas, I'm not yet across A-R spare part availability in case I find a good one with tired donk. Thanx in advance, and feel free to contact me if you are in/near Victoria and are considering selling your 70's Spider. 

[cjheath]

Ahhh yes, the legendary "Good spider that's cheap because it has a tired motor". You'd be more likely to find a leprechaun. Spare motors abound, the thing that's hard to find is a good body. Although rebuilding a motor isn't cheap, it is a very predictable cost compared to doing bodywork. The motors start to show tiredness after around 100,000mi but can run to 160,000mi typically. The biggest risk is if the liners have rusted at the base and you will have internal leaks; you can get bitten through no fault of yours or the sellers. A 1970's beast will almost certainly have had a rebuild or two, and your apart from the obvious (listening, looking at oil, coolant and for excessive leaks, compression test) your best safeguard is to find a seller you trust to tell the truth - like a club member who knows that you'll find out if s/he told porkies. Talk to their mechanic about the car too. But the bodywork is your first and foremost concern.

After that, it's a simple matter of totting up all the things you'll have to spend $$ on to get it into the shape you want it in. There's perhaps 20 main areas, but go beyond the obvious. For example, the tie rod ends in the steering might all be good, but the idler worn - not expensive, but such things all add up. You won't be able to negotiate all the costs away (or the seller would fix it themselves), but if you get more than half you're doing well.

[Brett C]

And there I was hoping I was the only person in Melbourne looking for a seventies Spider.... Damm, now I have competition

Rust is certainly what is worrying me the most. Can anyone please offer advice on where to look beyond the sills and floorpans?  I have been reading the varius Alfa books, but the rust in Australian cars seems to be a little more subtle!?

For interest, what should one expect to budget for a good 'street' engine rebuild?

Brett

[SimonR]

Guys I would recommend a very good 105 expert panel beater/resto shop look at any car fully prior to any purchase as the body and rust is by far the most expensive area to fix compared to mechanicals. I have a 1973 spider which I have owned since 1992, it was purchased as a rough goer and I drove it every day until 2001 when it had a full 2 year expensive body, mechanical and interior restoration. I could see all of the bad areas when I purchased it so I didnt have any hidden surprises when it was restored but I would be very carefull purchasing a mid priced car as it is likely to have rust either covered up by bog or the rust hasnt exposed itself just yet fully. This is why an expert really needs to look at it with you, otherwise you could easily get caught out with future expense for this part. Apart from sills the spare wheel well is also prone to rust as is all of the floor area and at bottom of doors (inside part) and in between the 3 rear panels where you cant see fully. I purchased many brand new panels from the UK (and Milano in Thomastown) as well as much other stuff so parts availability is now very good for almost all parts you could ever think of.
Engines are very strong and provided you keep it full of good quality oil and radiator coolant/rust stuff then they go almost forever. My alfa mechanic has had many customer cars motors that have done well over 400ks still going ok, but starters and alternators start to go before then though. Rebuilds depending on machining and mods you want isnt too bad really when you think of the life you will get out of them , 2nd gear syncro tends to go in these Gearboxes and I think I had the first 4 changed and a bearing and now it is perfect and the cost wasnt too bad. I have all recepits still at home so feel free to PM me and I can dig them out. I was living in Melb when I had it restored but I am now in Sydney but I am happy to email photos if it is helpfull for you, or feel free to PM me for any other details.
Regards Simon

[John Hanslow]

I would suggest that you have a look at our sponsors link, top right of home page.

http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/content/view/20/33/

We have a few Alfa Specialists who have been established for many years and are well versed in the 105 series cars, spiders included.  I would suggest you give them a call, try Maranello-Pursang Motors, Monza Motors, the Italian Job and speak with them.

A pre-purchase inspection costs about $100 and they can check out the problem areas and give an reasonably accurate estimate of costs, repairs etc.

These guys are pasionate about the marque.  I recommend you join the club as some give discoounts to club members.  The club may even hold a Restoration Workshop mid year if we have time- popular and very informative.  Good luck with your purchase.  

Cheers.

[Brett C]

Thanks Guys,

I joined the Alfa Club last year and have found the members helpful and certainly passionate about the marque, but good cars are thin in the market. I certainly intend to get a pre-purchase inspection done when I find a candidate.

Brett