Anyone fixed the headlight stalk mechanism before?

Started by AgeG, November 16, 2008, 11:36:06 PM

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AgeG

Hey guys,

Anyone had any experience with the light stalk on a GTV6? My nephew was in the car and over twisted the light stalk and has broken an internal part which meant the lights wouldnt turn off and the stalk spins freely and actually comes out. I disconnected the power to the mechanism for the short term but just wondering whether you can fix the internal components, or is it all one piece with the indicators.

Any info would be much appreciated and look forward to seeing some nice Alfas this weekend!

Regards,

Adrian ???
1989 AR 33 1.7ie Red
2005 Citroen C4 Grey
1985 Alfa Romeo GTV6 Silver
2012 Abarth 500C EsseEsse

robh

G'day, Have fixed broken switches several times and it can be done.
The 3 switches are all in an assembly held to the steering stem with two screws and are meant to be replaced as an assembly, expensive and hard to get. The trick is to pick up cheap spare ones, even if one switch is broken, for parts.
Complicating matters, the switches are not all identical between years and models and were sourced from at least two, probably more different manufacturers but the mounting base is similar as is the size and overall function of the switches and i have successfully grafted switches of one type into the assembly of another but it may take some creative thinking, cutting, araldite etc.
Each switch can be dissembled individually, some have screws holding the cover on, others metal rivets. The rivets can be carefully drilled and driven out and replaced either by pop rivets (use small washers behind to stop the rivet pulling through the softish plastic) or with screws/nuts.
Watch out for the internal springs, pull covers off slowly and be sure to note the placement of everything.
The problem you will probably find with yours is that the metal stalk is bonded to a plastic block inside which holds the copper switch contacts, springs, pivot, etc. The plastic section will almost certainly be broken and difficult or impossible to glue so you are looking at finding a replacement but if you can find an assembly with a broken blinker of wiper switch it may well provide the parts you need and will be muuuch cheaper than a good assembly.
Moral to this story, dont throw any assemblies away!
One thing to keep in mind if replacing assemblies is that the switch for the later models with intermittent wiper is a little larger than the earlier ones and the plastic surround covering the steering stem on the early models wont quite screw together properly (although it will work) and will have a small gap showing so it is a good idea to get the surround as well if upgrading to the intermittent system.

Luke

When the same thing happened to the light stalk in my Alfetta, I (rather, an auto electrician) retrofitted a button under the dash instead. It's quite discrete, and the stalk still operates the high beam function.

AgeG

im pretty sure only the plastic block is broken, the lights were working perfectly before hand, although i dont know if any collatoral damage has been done now.

will open it up tomorrow and have a crack at fixing it, although i hope it doesnt mean i stuff something up that I cant get the car to spetacollo!

Anyone know how tricky it is to get the assembly off, and whether dismantling it is overly difficult to get to the plastic block?
1989 AR 33 1.7ie Red
2005 Citroen C4 Grey
1985 Alfa Romeo GTV6 Silver
2012 Abarth 500C EsseEsse

robh

The assembly comes off easily after removing steering wheel and plastic shroud. It is held on by two screws with nuts behind. You will have to disconnect wiring of course but connectors are all straightforward and shouldn't require marking as long as it's all still standard.
Note routing of wires through plastic shroud and openings in steering stem, if displaced on assembly they may make refitting of shroud difficult or interfere with the steering stem height adjust lock.
You are quite right, the plastic part is the weak link, all the electrical contacts are chunky and robust and rarely fail. Trouble is the plastic block is the bit which provides the pivot and does all the work and once broken will be hard to fix.
Best to pull assembly out anyway because if not repairable you will need to take it in to try and match up with the correct switch type.
Getting into the switch internals isn't too hard, if you are lucky you might have the type with screws or clips on the cover, if not the rivets will need drilling out, just be careful that the drill doesnt catch in the soft plastic after removing the metal rivet head, it can quickly get out of control and feed down into the plastic causing damage to the hole.
No problem if the light switch cant be repaired, the housing will remain intact and can be refitted to get you to the shop.

AgeG

THanks Rob,

I swaped the combination for a second hand job, $100 from Milano and that seems ok, except the highbeam function wont stay on (when stalk and pushed down into place) Im not sure but i assume that the switch must be buggered. Ill open up the one i just pulled out of the car and replace the switch in the new (second hand) one i just put in. I think all the wiring is right as the highbeams come on when i hold the stalk towards the steering wheel
1989 AR 33 1.7ie Red
2005 Citroen C4 Grey
1985 Alfa Romeo GTV6 Silver
2012 Abarth 500C EsseEsse

Anthony Miller

I'm pretty sure the Milano boys will replace that switch until you get one that works properly
Now-  '99 156 2.5l V6 (rosso)
         '88 75 3.0l V6 (grigio)
Then- '81 Giulietta 2.0l transplant (ol whitey)
         '82 Giulietta 2.0l transplant (ol brownie)
         '82 Giulietta 2.0l TS transplant (ol red)

Red Devil GTV6

Hi All,

I am trying to replace the complete indicator and headlight stalk.

I have taken the steering wheel off. But now have a large nut in the middle of the steering column. I need to get the steering wheel mounting bracket off but this nut is terribly tight. When i try to turn it, it moves the whole thing and the wheels move.

Is this correct? Or is it just extremly tight?

Any tips on how to get it off?
Thanks for your help

MD

Not a post that is going to help you directly but may be food for thought..

Blame the Alfa bean counters. When they export the RHD production, they do not reconfigure this assembly for correct RHD operation. Indicating, dipping,controlling lighting,flashing,gear changing and handbrake operation all with the left hand is just impractical big time.

I got so annoyed by this nonsense I decided to convert the entire assembly together with rewiring for a more conventional stalk assembly where the indicators and lighting controls are on the RHS of the car where they should be. This requires some hours of scouring wrecking yards for just the right fit and then a lot of stuffing about later but the pain is worth it. It did this on an Alfetta sedan but have long since sold it otherwise I would post some pics. From memory I used an early Nissan unit. Simple compact and robust.

Any 75 owners that hate the LH stalk operation and want to make it more conventional all you need to do is  turn the assembly 180* on the colum and retighten. The light control with be reveresed in operation but this is a minor penatly for a major ergonomic gain.

AgeG, the about the only direct suggestion I have is to be sure the stalk contacts are well protected by sufficient relays to minimise current flow through them and improve voltages at the point where they are needed.
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse.

Current Fleet
Alfetta GTV6 3.0
Alfetta GTV Twin Spark supercharged racer
75 1.8L supercharged racer

Past Fleet
Alfa GT 3.2V6
Alfetta GTV 2.0
Giulia Super 2.0
Berlina 2.0

MD

QuoteI wound't want my alfa to be conventional

Sorry mate but when you drive one in Italy everything is in the place it should be...and incidentally, ambidextrous has nothing to do with it.
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse.

Current Fleet
Alfetta GTV6 3.0
Alfetta GTV Twin Spark supercharged racer
75 1.8L supercharged racer

Past Fleet
Alfa GT 3.2V6
Alfetta GTV 2.0
Giulia Super 2.0
Berlina 2.0