68 1300jnr oil in radiator

[ralph2007]

intruding a bit here.  i bought a 68, 1300jnr about 18 years ago.  drove it as primary vehicle for many years, but over last few years has rarely been driven.  fired it up again and have a fair bit of oil in the radiator.  not mechanically gifted by any stretch, so am wondering whether this type of issue has been experienced.  the previous owner put a 2l alfetta engine in.  i have always considered replacing with 1300 to get closer to original condition.  perhaps time to do so, and if so, any ideas whether any chance of coming across a recon 1300.  any help is much appreciated.  i live in nt, so hard up for local assistance.

[Colin Byrne]

These engines are very prone to failed head gasket and oil in the water is a good sign of that. Other symptoms can include, water in the oil, excessive steam out the exhaust and loss of coolant.  It's probably not terminal and head gaskets are relatively easy to change over on these engines.

[cjheath]

Alternatively, and just as likely, you have corrosion between the base of the cylinder liners and the block. The damage is normally terminal, as it affects the block worse than the replaceable liner, and folk used to just throw the block away and get another. It is possible however to get an aviation or specialist alloy welding place to build up the liner seat in the block, then machine it back so a new liner can be fitted.

Either way, you're up for a full rebuild. I'd go for the engine swap instead.

[Colin Byrne]

Alternatively, and just as likely, you have corrosion between the base of the cylinder liners and the block.

That hasn't been the case in my experience, I've never had this problem and I've blown plenty of head gaskets

Either way, you're up for a full rebuild. I'd go for the engine swap instead.

Not sure I would rate changing a head gasket as a "full rebuild" it is relatively painless and can be easily done in a couple of hours.

Depnding on what work was done with to install the 2L re gearbox and clutch actuation, swapping it back to a 1300 may not be as simple

[cjheath]

No, I mean if you have corrosion problems, it's a full rebuild whether you switch the block or not.

You might not have ever had this problem, but you've never had an engine sit idle for a decade without fresh anti-corrosive coolant either.

I don't know how to tell which problem it is though, without pulling the head off, and then you might not be able to tell it wasn't just the HG anyhow.

[Colin Byrne]

but you've never had an engine sit idle for a decade without fresh anti-corrosive coolant either.

Geez, impressive that you know the list of cars I've worked on!

I'm not saying its not a possibility, as it could be.  The majority of the time a head gasket goes there is plenty of visible evidence of the failure that can be viewed once the head is removed.

[1750GTV]

These engines are very prone to failed head gasket and oil in the water is a good sign of that.

Have to agree. With these engines, it's not a matter of if the head gasket will ever fail, but when. It's the major weak link in an otherwise great motor.

Do what Glen (Sportiva) says. Change the water, drive carefully and observe closely.

A couple of other signs are bubbles or froth in the radiator water with the engine running and an oily smear originating from between the head and the block on the exhaust side of the engine toward the rear cylinders - this is a common point of failure in these engines but if the gasket fails between the cylinders you may not see any external signs.

If the engine runs fairly well and the oil is OK, it's not a major disaster and is quite easily fixed - but you'll need to get it sorted soon.

Chris

[pep105]

I can vouch for the head gasket failure as well, especially as the 2 litre engines Ive owned have typically done a head gasket, with similar symptoms as outlined (oil in water etc). The only one that didn't was my 1600 and by the way it was treated it probably should have.

If converting back to 1300, make sure you try get a complete an engine as possible as you'll need to change the flywheel and starter motor, and being a 68 model stepnose Junior it may have been converted from cable to hydraulic clutch.

The good news for you is the 2 litre flywheel is expensive, I was quoted $350 for it on its own (was going to convert an 2 litre Alfetta engine to 105 spec, but ending buying a 105 donk instead) so you may be able to recoup some pennies if you decide to sell it, as well as the engine, 2l carbies etc

Good Luck

[cjheath]

but you've never had an engine sit idle for a decade without fresh anti-corrosive coolant either.

Geez, impressive that you know the list of cars I've worked on!

Hey, I never questioned your experience. I just know you aren't one to leave such a car undriven!

The majority of the time a head gasket goes there is plenty of visible evidence of the failure that can be viewed once the head is removed.

Definitely the way to go then. I wanted the OP to be warned however, as I've had to rebuild/replace an engine with internal leaks twice in my 25 years of Alfas, and only once had a HG blow. Don't know if that makes me lucky or not!

[mario-jnr]

sorry to but in but ive got a early 1300 complete engine with flywheel has been machined no carbs and no exhaust or water pump but all is there and it was working when i pulled it out of my jnr 3 weeks ago i too have gone the path of the 2ltr conversion if your keen give me a call mario 0412207607

[ralph2007]

thanks guys, this is very much appreciated.  i'll have a go at removing the top parts of the engine and take it from there.  sounds like i can still drive carefully.  absolutely love the old 'girl'.  missus bought a 64 datto fairlady, which has cost us a fair bit, but we have kept as a daily drive.  funny thing is that when i drove the alfa home after quite a few months idle, it is still a much more solid car than the datto.  time to get the old 'girl' back to where she should be.

[Balocco]

Dont think that head removal on these cars is going to be easy,as years of gasket attachment usually means that it will not separate itself easily from the head.If you have difficulty,removing the head,you will need a special tool that uses the spark plug hole ant the top of the head studs as a leverage point to crack the seal of the head gasket,after that it will be easy and straight forward. A word of warning,do not let the timing chain drop down,when you disconnect it,just tie some long pieces of wire to the chain ends to prevent it from dropping down. Good luck