rear hub conversion?

[bt46]

just after some opinion on what would be a more easy way to convert from four stud to five at the rear
a: swap the hubs and have the benifit of new rear wheel bearings
b: swap the a-frame

[MD]

To pull the hubs off you will kill the bearings for sure. Its a prick of a job. I think they cost around $100 each to replace. Depends what a replacement complete frame with good bearings will cost. Do some homework.

[bt46]

i have a complete frame with bearings that are ok from an old car of mine

or i can get bearings from skf at trade price

i was wondering which was the more easy of the two jobs in your opinion?

have changed many a transaxle but have only done one rear wheel bearing and it was a long time ago

[bt46]

im asking because im not sure how much of a bitch the rear hubs are to change.............if there a pain in the ass ill be changing the frame for sure

[bt46]

i did it 16 years ago....i cant even remember last week!

[VeeSix]

What was the topic again??? 

[Mike]

my recollection of the bearing swap out is that you need:
1*very long bar, say 1.5m
1*freezer
1*oxy

Have to get stuff nice and cold and nice and hot to get things to go back together.  And it takes some serious force to pop the flange out.  I'd still swap bearings personally, then she'll be nice and new.  I mean pulling the transaxle out is probably going to take about as long anyway.  A stitch in time saves nine.

[bt46]

Yeah Mike
I know the rear flang nut is mega tight.
I do have all the tools in my workshop (inc a freezer and oxy) and it would be nice to have new bearings.
Im so indecisive...worse than a freakin woman.

Anybody know who can bend up some neg camber and toe on the A frame in Melbourne?
I know Beninca can do it so there is one.

[MD]

..at least you're honest with yourself.

I am having the A frame cambers reset on the wheel aligner. CHeck out a crowd that is prepared to do it. Failing that come to Brisbane. I 'll hook you up .

[bt46]

Still interested in the people that can bend up the a frame?
Im tipping alot of heat and removal and replacment of wheel bearings.

[MD]

Nothing of the sort.
You cut and you weld.
Adjust for camber and toe if that's what you want .
Weld in stages to keep it cool.

The bearing are nowhere near where the welds are anyway.

The more critical is the control of shrinkage during the welding so you don't wind up with much more adjustment than you intended.

[bt46]

ok thats interesting. I may have been told the wrong information. Makes sense as the outter ends are welded on anyway.

[MD]

Sorry, I think I was a little harsh on you.

What you proposed is in fact one of the techniques. However unless you have blacksmith skills, it will simply turn into a nightmare and yes the bearings would need to come out first. Co-ordinating the alignment measurements at the same time would indeed be a tricky business hence the alternative that I have described for you. This was done to my last race car build and so I know it works. I also intend to do the same on the one I am building now.

[Jekyll and Hyde]

Still interested in the people that can bend up the a frame?
Im tipping alot of heat and removal and replacment of wheel bearings.

Hugh at Monza motors can organise that for you, ....

[aggie57]

Not sure where the cut and weld comes from.  We used to use a large oxy torch.  It's a little hit and miss so you may need to go through a couple of iterations.

My recommendation is to get an old steel wheel and weld a strong long straight bar across it.  Use the bar to both do the be bending and measuring the results.

You will fry the bearing using that approach. The factory tool to replace the bearing is a simple but decent size slide bar.  If you've seen it you'll never do it any other way.  Beninca's have one......it takes oh all of a few minutes each side.

Alister