Teledials on a 75

[shiny_car]

A different question - kinda on-topic - the centre bore hole diameter on 156 wheels will be 58.1mm. I'm reading on alfabb.com US forums that their Milano/75 has 58.6mm spiggot/hub diameter. Hence, 156 wheels need to be slightly drilled out to fit properly.

Does this apply to Aus-spec 75s? Is the spiggot/hub 58.6mm? I was hoping to fit my unused GT 17" wheels onto the 75, but not if they require modification.

[Neil Choi]

Yep, on modern 156 wheels, there are 5 little tabs in the hub centre hole, these tabs can be taken off easily with a die grinder or a file. 

[shiny_car]

Ah. Thanks Neil. I don't wish to bore out my GT wheels for the sake of it.

[dehne]

thats why you use spacers so you do not need to alter anything but 1 thing is i thin k on the later 156 the off set changed, as on my 156 i put later model rims on it (still factory) but i had to buy longer studs/bolts, and these rims would not fit on the 90/75/gtv6 with out putting longer studs through the hub but it you altered the rims centre it may work but not sure on that either

[aggie57]

Hey - just wanted to say I'm sorry if the conversation around mounting wheels seems off topic (well, it is a bit) but to put it in context over the years this is one of the area's we have had problems with at club events.  Not so much in recent years but as an example back when we started going back to Phillip Island we were loosing (as in writing off) on average 1 car a meeting.  

Around the same time R rated tyres became the norm as well so loads increased and wheel failures became worryingly common.  I can recall one GTV being backed into the wall and totally destroyed at Phillip Island, a 105 having the centre of a rim ripped out at Calder and a 105 having a GTA alloy collapse at Winton.  We also had a wheel fall off our old GT due to incorrect fitting in practice for a 6-hr way back when.

On the road it's potentially less of an issue as speeds and loads are not so high.   Although personally I've had studs on another GT break, on factory wheels using standard lug nuts, just because of temperature variations after being left in the snow for a week and then being driven down the Hume.

Anyway, my point is this is an area you really want to know what you're doing if you start changing things around.  Get it wrong, out on the track or at speed on country roads you get no second chances with this one.  Please just be careful.

[colcol]

Just remember wheels are located by the SPIGOT on the hub and not by the wheel bolts or studs, the taper on the bolts \ nuts are for applying friction by means of the taper to stop the wheel bolts \ nuts from loosening off, i always use anti seize on my bolts on the 33 and 156 to stop them cold welding themselves to each other, just remember that old engineering saying i am about to make up, spigots and dowels are for accurate location, fasteners are for clamping, not locating, and make sure you use the correct length fasteners as they vary for steel \ alloy, different wheels etc, Colin.

[Neil Choi]

Fascinating reading and something I have experienced first hand on this SPIGOT and STUD issue.  I spent some hard hours changing bits and pieces several times to solve a wheel wobble problem which occurs at high speed of >100km/h.  In the end, it was the spigot locating principle which I forgot about to apply.

The problem arised from trying to use spacers to space out wheel to clear caliper, once spaced out, the wheel centre hub hole did not locate onto spigot anymore, hence misalignment.  Did not solve problem in time and went back to original set up. 

Anyway, Colin, perhaps you can tell me, I have wheels where the centre hub hole is slightly bigger than the spigot, what would you suggest to solve this to prevent the wobbles and to locating them correctly.

I was thinking of having a spacer made which locates onto the hub spigot, and an outer spigot the size of the wheel centre hole to locate the new wheel.  But could be kind of costly as they need to be made.

Any other ideas?

Neil

[philpot]

Hi Neil, there are a multitude of already available spigot rings out there if various thickness', a 'Plethora' even...try googling them, wheel manufacturers and check out tyre/wheel places... u might be able to cobble something simple before going the custom machine route. The spigot rings on my TSW wheels are made of alloy by the way. As an aside, these South African made rims survived being T-boned at 50 k's plus, transfering the impact forces to the axle and rear shock tower. Run true, no damage, balanced properly. A very well made brand of rim, even after 17 years use! The momo's that were on the sud originally didn't survive lapping Phillip Island without cracking one of their 16 spokes...

Yes, colcol, thats what the gist of my input was aimed at. OE suds/33's use 'BOTH'  methods for a reason! Yes, I also use a thin film of lanox to make tightening the tapered seat bolts smoother and easier; and removal also.

Dont' have a prob of topics going off message as long as the original question has been addressed. Conversations can grow into very interesting, educational and somtimes humourous/infuriating beasts !

[colcol]

This is a serious subject as getting could cause a massive car accident, so if you are in doubt, don't do it, if your wheels are bigger than the spigot you may be able to shrink some reducing sleeves into the centre of the wheel to provide a snug fit on the hub spigot, but this would most likely be illegal, with spacers, they may be sound for wheel location, once again they are most likely illegal, and spacers to a certain extent add to the distance away from the hub the bolts and wheels nuts are which causes a certain amount of flexing which can lead to loosening off the fasteners or complete breakage, with catostrophic results, as for Suds and 33's, the bolts for the alloys are not interchangeable due to differing lengths, put 33 bolts on a Sud and it will not go anywhere because the bolts will foul on the suspension, use Sud bolts on a 33 and they will be slightly short which means they will not be fully engageing the whole length of the thread, which means they will be more prone to thread stripping and loosening off issues, Colin.

[f1worldchamp]

Thanks for all the replies guys, some good info and good reading.
I was under the impression that putting the teledials on the 75 was a fairly straight forward and oft done thing. Apparently not. 
I have done a test fit of these and the centre hub appeared to line up perfectly, as did the bolts. The only issue ( I thought) was that I would be needing longer wheel nuts.