Koni red settings - what do people use on a 105?

[tjb0274]

Getting back to driving the Ricciardi again has made me determined to sort out all the nagging issues that I never got around to when it was last in regular use, and one of those is the handling and ride. Roadholding has never been a problem (light car, fat tyres), but I've never had the feel in the car that I wanted, and it's always been inclined to jump about a bit on bumps, which can be unnerving (I spun it once when I hit a bump in mid corner, fortunately without hitting anything).

I knew that it had adjustable Konis, but have always been hazy on how to adjust them (or how to know what settings to adjust them to!), but I've been doing some reading, and have convinced myself that they've been set too stiff (my fault, because I asked for the car to be stiffened after I first bought it) and need to be softened - especially at the rear.

I got frustrated today that it was too rainy for an enjoyable drive, so I took the toolbox, hydraulic jack and stands down to the storage unit with the intention of checking the suspension over and fixing a couple of nagging problems (non-functioning speedo and auxilliary fan), and ended up checking all the shocks and setting them to fully soft.

Wasn't sure which Konis it had in it, but it turns out to be Koni reds all round, which makes sense - the car is 400 odd kg lighter than a GTV and has lighter springs, so yellows valved for a 105 would presumably be too stiff. All 4 shocks were set a half turn stiff, and I deliberated about leaving the fronts there and just softening the rear, but in the end I set them all to fully soft as a baseline. The fronts are very easy to adjust - I actually did the FL without taking the wheel off, so it will be straightforward to stiffen them again if required.

Was only able to go for a quick test drive, but even at low speed the car is definitely more compliant over surface irregularities, manhole covers and the like.

The rears were definitely too stiff in rebound before - there's a noticeable difference in ride height now at the back, so I think the shocks were actually holding the springs back from full extension, which is probably sub-optimal!

It will be interesting to see what it's like at speed - I originally had it stiffened because I thought the back was a bit floaty the first time I drove the car fast on a bumpy road, but ever since I have felt it was too stiff, and gets too unsettled over small bumps (especially on corner apexes). Driving it again after a few years' hiatus, it did feel harsh and agricultural, which seems un-Alfa-like!

I've been scared of touching it again since it was first adjusted because the mechanic who did the work back then complained about having to take the axle out to make the adjustment (on the Ricciardi the rear shocks are mounted inside the spring). However, after doing the fronts I thought I'd have a go at the backs, and managed to adjust them by pushing the mounting stud down with a screwdriver to engage the adjustor, and then rotating the dust cover with my fingers stretched between the spring coils. Didn't take long, and now I wish I'd done it years ago!

This also gave me a chance to have a good look at the suspension mounts and bushes, and everything looked solid except for the RF caster arm, which seems to have the tiniest bit of play, presumably in the ball joint. Have to get that sorted soon.

Hmm - more than I meant to write! Apologies for the length. The point of the post was to ask what settings people use with the Koni reds in their 105s, and what sort of characteristics you measurefor to tune them to your car and driving. My guess is that I'll end up putting the front back where it was, and stiffening the back slightly but nowhere near where it was previously, but I want to drive it for a bit and understand what's going on - and get some new tyres on it. Plenty of tread on the old ones, but they're too old and have lost some elasticity.

[Barry Edmunds]

I'm not sure whether 105 settings would apply to your car as your vehicle's weight being a lot different to a standard 105 would tend to throw most calculations/guesses out the window.

105's traditionally ran with stiff set up at front and soft rear end.

I'd suggest you start off with soff settings all round, do a test drive to get used to the feel and handling of the car (a bit further than round the block) and gradually make changes, with a test drive after each change. Use the same road with each test.

It could be a long process unless you happen to hit on the correct/best setting early.

Make sure you note any changes for future reference.

[tjb0274]

I'm not sure whether 105 settings would apply to your car as your vehicle's weight being a lot different to a standard 105 would tend to throw most calculations/guesses out the window.

105's traditionally ran with stiff set up at front and soft rear end.

Yeah, it's hard to know how similar the behaviour would be. As far as I can tell the suspension geometry is almost identical, just with lighter + shorter springs and the different location for the rear shocks - which if I'm visualising the suspension movement correctly should reduce the influence of the shock. I think the roll centres would be similar.

I guess I'm interested in what the relative change is with different shock settings.

I'd suggest you start off with soff settings all round, do a test drive to get used to the feel and handling of the car (a bit further than round the block) and gradually make changes, with a test drive after each change. Use the same road with each test.

It could be a long process unless you happen to hit on the correct/best setting early.

Make sure you note any changes for future reference.

Agreed     

I just got back from a long drive - first time on the open road for many years. Took the car up through Whittlesea to Kinglake, dinner at the pub, and then back down the C746 and Diamond Creek road. Got a big scare coming in to Kinglake - very loud clicking noise suddenly started up, matched to the engine revs. Quick investigation, and discovered it was the tacho cable. Tacho duly gave up the ghost halfway back to Melbourne. Since the speedo went (again) last week, that's two cables I'll be replacing....

There's definitely something loose in the front end - probably that ball joint I noticed yesterday - making it wander a bit on transitions. Quite noticeable on corner entry. The shock changes have made a big difference, though. Much more compliant over bumps. I also dropped the tyre pressures a bit - they were around 34, which is probably a bit high for road use. Interestingly, both the passenger and I felt the ride was better and more compliant by the end of the drive, but I think that must be imagination.

If anything I think the car may need more compression damping rather than rebound. Got to get the loose bits in the suspension sorted first, though, and then we'll see.