Front brakes

[Evan Bottcher]

I'm running QFM 750 degree pads in the Alfasud (only 900 odd kilos).  Highly recommended, they have much more friction than the DS2500s I was running, although maybe take a little longer to come up to temperature.  Possibly a little extreme for a street car, you might try one of their other pad materials.  I still think they're better than the DS2500s, and cheaper too.

Bruno at Maranello Motors supplies them 9386 9650.

[Robert. Dale]

If you are after a serious Front Brake Set Up for Competition Work see Bruno at  Marranello for a set up similar to my 75 Twin Spark (same as a STD GTV6 from Factory).

Bruno has made adaptors from old disc rotors and fitted 156 Rotors with 4 Spot Volvo Calipers and Braided Brake Hoses.

The 156 Rotors are about 10-12mm larger in diameter than the GTV6/75 Rotors and slightly thicker.

The set up works very well, at the 6 Hour we used QFM Pads and they are less than half worn after over 2 Hours on the Track with two drivers.

We use 100mm Brake Ducts from where the Fog Lights used to be at 6Hour events and remove them for Sprint events.

If you want to get really serious have a look at the Outboard Rear Brakes on my Car they came from Alan Goodall's sadly missed GTV6 Race Car.

Rob Dale.

[Scott Farquharson]

Call Howard at Race Brakes for professional advice - his no. is 03 9326 6088  He has a range of compounds depending on application - as Jim pointed out what may be good for a 6 lap sprint may not be great for the 6 hr.  web site - http://www.racebrakes.com.au/

Or Hugh at Monza's - he has his "secret" compounds that work a treat as well as the usual brands and has a lot of experience (and the proof is how quick he is) 9720 4442

If you are doing a lot of road use then some of these pads are not going to be the way to go - they need heat and in most cases are not going to be suitable for the road - noisy and will lack bite till warm.  I would buy a set of race pads and a set of road pads and swap.

Forums are great for getting some opinions and research but for this I would go and talk with the pros about your particular curcumstances and application.

[Colin Byrne]

If it's brake feel your after pad compound, brake line and discs will make a difference but make sure you don't overlook compliance (flexing) in the brake pedal, linkages and master cylinder, particularly for alfettas which have a shocking mount for the master cylinder/booster to the firewall.

[Jekyll and Hyde]

but make sure you don't overlook compliance (flexing) in the brake pedal, linkages and master cylinder, particularly for alfettas which have a shocking mount for the master cylinder/booster to the firewall.

This is definitely on the list too, I'm contemplating the difficulties of lathing up aluminium bushings to replace the rubber ones around the bar that crosses over from the pedal to the booster, and checked the freeplay in it the other night.  I'm guessing that the other thing to do is reinforce the firewall where the pedal box and the booster mount to?  I have also noticed that the Brembos seem to flex quite a bit when the pedal is pushed (like when bleeding brakes), not sure what to do about that other than possibly the 156 disc/volvo caliper conversion (which at this stage I'll leave until the V6 brakes prove themselves not up to the job).

I'm running QFM 750 degree pads in the Alfasud (only 900 odd kilos).  Highly recommended, they have much more friction than the DS2500s I was running, although maybe take a little longer to come up to temperature.

Thats a good thought too, I was wondering whether QFM did race pads, as we buy a lot of pads off them through my work.  Idle thought comes to mind that they may come up to temp quicker in the 1100 kilo Alfetta than the Sud?

[Colin Byrne]

I have also noticed that the Brembos seem to flex quite a bit when the pedal is pushed (like when bleeding brakes),

This probably looks worse than it is with the wheel off the car as the disc may not be pulled up hard agaist the hub