Want to buy - Weber Carburetor (twin) 40 DCOE 28

[1300-GT-Junior]

All,

I am looking to buy the above. The Solex's on my 1300GTJ are on the way out and am making the car run lean.

Any ideas where I can get a good set?

Cheers all.

[BradGTV]

http://www.alfaholics.com/race-performance/alfaholics-performance-and-racing-parts/fuel-system/

and

http://www.ahmotorsports.co.uk/index2.htm

both sell them, im not aware of anywere in oz that you can buy them?

im no expert but gaskets and seals are the only things that wear out on them, maybe a rebuild kit?

or i have a set of delloroto's in fully working condition $275

[branko.gt]

most 40DCOE will work fine for you.

you do need 28 chokes though ....
although if you put 105.48 cams, you could change the chokes to 30 and adjust the jetting for some very nice top end response.

there is little bit off a flat spot just under 3000 but IMHO that is a fair trade-off.

we have done that on my 1300 junior and it is just fantastic :-)

[1300-GT-Junior]

Some of you are aware that I am still in the infant phase of learning about my car.

I got presented with 2 options

1. Keep the original thermostat and replace my Solex's for Webers (I am told that the butterfly is rattling around, the bushes and shafts are worn) causing the car to have just over 3 cylinders on start up. I am told that the bearings inside the Weber's are a point of difference here.

2. Put a different manifold with the new Webers on and change the thermostat.

This is all a bit confusing for me, the original book has 40 DOCE 28 but it obviously appears that other 40's are suitable.

[AikenDrum105]

You're right - a 40DCOE 28  is just a 40-series which was sold with 28mm chokes inside -  If you can find a set of 40 DCOE 32 of a 1750 or 2L (thought they're normally dellortos)  you can refit them with the 28mm chokes, and the right jets / bleeds etc for the 1600.

or try Branko's idea which gets my vote

My super has a set stamped 40DCOE28,  which has 32mm chokes and is jetted for a 2L instead.

I think There are differences in the weber production timeline -  40DCOE28s (if off an alfa) were used a lot early on for 1600 duettos / sprints etc - and are often an earlier model.   some later webers for the 1750 and 2L engines have different progression holes and so forth  (although I think these can be identified as pairs stamped 40DCOE-150 and 151 for example - not 100% on this)    pretty sure if you find a set stamped 40DCOE32 or 28 etc they are earlier ones.

Very early ones have a brass throttle spindle which can bow / twist with age/misuse misaligning the throttle plates - if you find a set - check they have steel throttle spindles to save grief later on.

Wiser folks might chip in with more info on this (I hope)    I learnt most of this off posts on the alfabb in the fuel / carburetion section.

Oh - I have a set of Solexes that came with my super - they seem quite tight as far as spindle slop etc goes - they *should* be jetted for a 1600.  If it helps at all,   you are welcome to try them to get you moving again.   I'm not 100% but expect you can change the 1300 jets / chokes etc out of yours and drop them straight in to these ones.  Just an option anyway.

Not sure what the motivation is to change the thermostat style, unless it's just a  'might as well do a manifold upgrade while the carbs are off' thing   I think the later types provide better bypass circulation on startup,  self bleed better when used with an evap tank, but require an extra hose or two fouling up the area near the dizzy

Hope that helps.

[branko.gt]

Some of you are aware that I am still in the infant phase of learning about my car.

I got presented with 2 options

1. Keep the original thermostat and replace my Solex's for Webers (I am told that the butterfly is rattling around, the bushes and shafts are worn) causing the car to have just over 3 cylinders on start up. I am told that the bearings inside the Weber's are a point of difference here.

2. Put a different manifold with the new Webers on and change the thermostat.

This is all a bit confusing for me, the original book has 40 DOCE 28 but it obviously appears that other 40's are suitable.

Don't worry about the manifold. There is no need to change the manifold, screw in thermostats are little bit dearer but we are talking $20 here, it is not like you have to change thermostats every day.
BTW, other than the thermostat and few other water connectors, most manifolds are the same and will readily interchange between engines.

If all you want to keep the engine running as is,  just get a set of sound s/h solexes and a rebuild kit and bob's your uncle. They shoudl be cheaper then Webbers.  I have a set that came of a junior that i'd be happy to let go for a small change. But that is really a short term strategy as sooner or later you will want to replace them with webbers or dellortos. Why? Because everyone does. There is nothing especially wrong with solexes but they are not that great and not as tinker-friendly as the other two brands.

On the other hand if you want to start tinkering here and now, get a set of Webbers and pay someone to fit correct jets.
A good s/h set should be about half a price of a brand new set. Some may also tell you that the old Webbers are better than the new production (made in Spain) but i am not really convinced that is actually true.

BTW, Are you doing this yourself or having it done?

[1300-GT-Junior]

Thanks for the great responses, truly appreciated.

All work will be done at Italservice in Adelaide, very happy with how I have been treated so far.

Spent the afternoon driving the car, the car struggles to hold the idle, which I hope is just the carby issue but quite happywith the acceleration through the gears.