Water pump removal

Started by mickl, June 15, 2011, 04:03:14 PM

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mickl

hello again
I have just tried to remove the three hose water pump from my 2 litre berlina. I emoved the radiator and all hoses, removed 9 x 10mm nuts from around the waterpump casting, removed the adjust bracket and fan belt, removed the cable from the tacho and then prised the waterpump away from the engine...it moved Ok but only as far as the crankshaft pulley allowed it. The part of the casting where the tacho cable enters fouls on the pulley before the waterpump casting is free. Is this normal? How will I get it off to replace the waterpump..........it looks like removing the crankshaft pulley will be needed. The nut is 35mm ??...but I do not know how to remove this nut to enable the pulley to be removed. can anyone help please?
Mickl

Barry Edmunds

Mickl
The pulley nut is 36mm. I've got you can borrow if necessary.
I always thought the 2 litre had enough clearance to remove WP without taking pulley off whereas the 1600 or 1750 motor required the pulley to be removed to take WP off. Can't remember which.
A while since I did that job but am sure that the water pump on a 2 litre can be removed without having to remove the pulley. A long time back but I do recall that removing a couple of the lower WP studs gave me enough room to manouvre the WP clear of the pulley.
Barry
0405 383 431

mickl

Thanks for the tips gents.
Barry, the pulley is definitely in the way and has to be removed. I thought maybe a stud puller could remove the bottom studs but there is no room to get it on the studs. I don`t have a rattle gun but I did manage to borrow a 36mm socket and with the help of a 1m long pipe and after filling the cylinders with rope i managed to free the nut on the crankshaft. Pump comes off freely then. Looks like I now need to press off the fan and get a new one ordered. I don`t have a workshop manual so what torque is needed to refit the pully nut? Are there any tricks to removing the fan etc and reassembling the unit once I get a new pump from UK?
Thanks
Mickl

LaStregaNera

Replace that stud with a bolt while you've got access.
66 GT Veloce
Bimota SB6

Craig_m67

'66 Duetto (lacework of doom)
'73 1600 GT Junior (ensconced)
'03 156 1.9JTD Sportwagon (daily driver)

Sheldon McIntosh

Quote from: mickl on June 17, 2011, 09:44:25 AM
and after filling the cylinders with rope i managed to free the nut on the crankshaft

Huh.  Never heard of that trick before.  Cute.

mickl

Thanks for the tip to remove a couple of the studs and replace with bolts, also for the torque chart...but why the caution about "new engine"? Should I torque a little lower or higher?
i heard that the pulley should be pressed to the new pump after heating both to 80 degrees celsius. This seems a little over-the-top, is it necessary?
mickl

mickl

I was a bit hesitant with the rope trick but a mechanic said it would be fine and was often used. The car is on stands with no wheels or brakes ( and lots of other missing bits too) so I could not get the engine to stop turning by just putting it into drive.... I tried that also with the handbrake on hard and a bar through the driveshaft. The rope worked well and comes out easily without leaving anything behind.
Mickl

LaStregaNera

The rope trick is standard practice for doing valve springs in the car - much safer when there's no cams to open the valves...
66 GT Veloce
Bimota SB6