Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6 [Updated 12 November 2021]

[shiny_car]

Thanks Duk!

[ANG156]

Hi Shiny,

Where did you purchase the black wire sleeving from?

[shiny_car]

Fleabay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PVC-Tubing-Wire-Conduit-1-2-inch-Black-10-ft-roll-/270774814749

1/2" diameter has been the largest I've readily found, at good cost. That same seller offers 3/4" and 1/4", which I also used.
I most recently bought 20' of 1/2" tubing (ie: 2 lots of 10', and sent as a continuous length, not cut); postage was US$7, so the total was a smidge under A$20, delivered.

[Beatle]

Have you ever used 'heatshrink'?  It can be quite handy stuff for tidying and insulating wiring and a host of other uses.

[shiny_car]

Yeah, plenty of heatshrink has been used. I covered the 0ga wire with heatshrink. The ends of the pvc tubing are terminated with heatshrink, as are individual small branches of wire, etc. Definitely helps neaten everything.

[Duk]

Shiny, I'm keen to see/read what you plan to do with your boot mounted battery set up.

I'm (still  ) contemplating my own 'non engine bay' set up and am toying with the idea of mounting the battery under the boot floor so that it isn't right next to the fuel tank and maintains boot space.

[Beatle]

Shiny,

What tools and what products are you using to carry out the detail polishing of paint and components around the engine bay?

[shiny_car]

Hi Paul

Not sure if you are curious about any particular part I've done, but here's a summary of most of it:

*repainted parts (eg: brackets, pulleys, thermostat housing): cleaned, roughened with wire brush or wet&dry sandpaper; sprayed with 'etch primer' for metal; finished with sprayed VHT Engine Enamel in Aluminium/Satin Black/Matt Black
*engine bay (red): rather than the expensive, out-sourced task of spray painting the engine bay (which would require removal of engine, trailering the car, etc), I hand-painted; paint was prepared by local paint supplier using Alfa Rosso 130 paint code, in tins of 500ml (or whatever size I want); painted using a brush and finished with a small roller to achieve an even textured finish; paint dries very quickly and is relatively thick, so thinners required
*engine bay (red), parts that were resprayed (firewall/wiper cowl, top edges of quarter panels, slam panel/bonnet latch panel): these areas were masked, prepped (cleaned, sanded, wiped), and resprayed with aerosol cans of Alfa Rosso 130, produced by the same company as above; then finished with clear coat (no specific brand); the section of the slam panel is a high gloss finish that required a high quality finish because it's readily on view; after many layers of clear coat, this was carefully sanded (down to 1500 grade) to remove 'orange peel', then machine polished (I use various grades of buffing pad, and Menzerna polish including Intensive Polish and Final Finish (Menzerna seem to rename their polishes every few years so mine are older products now)); my favoured finishing wax is Pinnacle Souveran Wax Paste
*black hoses/plastics: I use various products including Poorboy's World Natural Look and Gtechniq C4 Trim Restorer
*cam covers/plenum: after cleaning, these were sprayed with VHT Wrinkle Plus

That covers most of it. If there's other parts you're interested about, let me know.

[ARQ164 Shane]

good day shiny m8,
 

Are you renewing your sparkleads ?  If so would you have an aussie part number  thanks .Alphie

[shiny_car]

I have a new set that I bought from Centerline, US.
https://www.centerlinealfa.com/ignition-system/1347

[ARQ164 Shane]

I found some at auto pro ;Eagle or ngk but there all blue not black .
I think it would look a bit crapy eg red car black motor blue leads?

[ARQ164 Shane]

hey all found out that are very similar in construction to the alfa v6 leads.
that said; http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/diy-submission-forum/660129-993-beru-silicone-copper-replacement-ignition-leads.html

the Alfa spark wire is Reinshagen FZL2XG .

[shiny_car]

Another month, another update! 

Wiring is nearly all done; only a customised 'groundwire kit' that I'll create, and headlight wiring remains.

Here, the 2ga wire that passed from the battery positive terminal to the starter motor was connected to the distribution block. As such, power from the battery feeds via 0ga from the boot to the distribution block, then to the starter motor. For show, all wires to/from the block were made Stinger. I connected a short length of Stinger wire after cutting the original starter wire shorter; used a Stinger 0ga joiner.











A new 'engine block' groundwire was created using black Stinger 0ga Pro Series wire. Tinned copper lugs were hex crimped onto each end.







This wire serves as the groundwire for the alternator, so rather than connect to the original bolt on the engine (which was one of the PS pump bracket bolts), I secured it directly to the alternator casing via the tensioning bolt. I fitted the groundwire at the time of fitting the alternator and belt, which also drives the water pump. Connection to the chassis occurred later after completing all the +12V powerwires.





I refashioned the short wiring loom that connects between the alternator and the terminal board on the side of the engine bay. This loom contained 4 wires: the main alternator output wire (original wire was 6mm^2), light green alternator output monitoring wire to the ARC computer, and two grey/red wires from the oil level sensor which is positioned in the sump near the alternator. The main output wire was upgraded to 4ga (20mm^2) and fitted separately, so the remaining 3 thinner wires were grouped together in new pvc tubing. The far end of the wires was terminated with the 3-wire plug.









New alternator output wire created from red 4ga Stinger Pro wire. Lug terminal hex crimped, and wire covered by heatshrink.





The monitoring wire and oil level sensor wires were connected. The main output wire bolted to the appropriate terminal on the alternator. All wires were then supported with 2 P-clamps which bolted to the back of the alternator.





This powerwire originally connected directly to the battery terminal, and from my understanding, supplies the ECU and/or fuel manangement controller. A short length of red 8ga Stinger Pro wire connects this via a joiner to the distribution block.







The alternator and ECU powerwires are connected to the distribution block. Fuses yet to be fitted.



The power steering pump was refitted, with its new belt.





The AC compressor belt was fitted, completing the 3 new auxiliary belts.





The belts are all new Bosch components. The model numbers reflect their specification: the 11A0850 is a 11mm wide belt of 850mm length.



The PS fluid cooling bars were cleaned and lightly resprayed, and reattached to the chassis.



The 3 relays at the front of the passenger side of the engine bay were refitted into position. The washer fluid motor relay is original. The other 2 are replacements, in black (originals were white and silver/metal).



Next upgrade was adding 2 new relays for the headlights: lowbeam and highbeam. The relays are triggered by the original headlight wires on the passenger side; thus, these wires no longer power the H4 globe. Power to the headlights will be directly from the distribution block via the relays, for a more robust supply and should provide brighter output.

I sourced OE-spec relay holders off ebay, manufacturer is AMP, only in white. These clip to the existing holders, same locking mechanism that clips the holders to the engine bay bracket. The original headlight wires were fitted with the supplied spade terminals and locked into the holders.





Two additional small powerwires (including power to the horns via the horn relay; the other remains a mystery to me at this stage) were also connected to the distribution block using a joiner and 8ga Stinger wire.





Creating powerwires to feed the headlight relays from the distribution block: using 8ga, a joiner, then 2x 12ga wires from the joiner to the relays. Also groundwires for each relay coil.





New headlight relays (dual output SPST; these ones are white, secondhand from ebay; same 'MP' OE brand as used throughout car), fitted to the relay holders. The only remaining wires/terminals to fit are to feed the headlight globes.





All the +12V powerwires to/from the distribution block are fitted: 0ga from the battery + 0ga to the starter motor; 100A fused 4ga from the alternator, 30A fused 8ga to the ECU/fuel management, 30A fused 8ga to the horn relay/other, 30A fused 8ga to the headlight relays. Stinger MIDI fuses used throughout.



Attaching the groundwire from the alternator to the chassis. Utilised an existing hole, enlarged to 8mm. Paint buffed/sanded down to raw metal using the Dremel and sandpaper. Wire bolted to the chassis with an 8mm titanium bolt, and carbon grease on the contact surfaces to improve connection and prevent corrosion.







Replaced the passenger side, front quarter panel screws along the top inner edge. Same process as the driver side. With the screws/clips removed, the area was cleaned, sanded, and masked, then resprayed Alfa Rosso 130 and clearcoat. M6x16mm titanium bolts and captive nuts fitted.









Last task for the month was refitting the firewall trim, which I previous cleaned, dusted over with black spray paint, and removed the old, torn open cell foam rubber pieces. I posted this pic previously:



New 4mm medium density closed cell foam rubber was bought from Clark Rubber. A4 paper templates cut by trial and error, to follow the contours of the engine bay components along the bottom edge of the trim, to replace the original foam rubber. Pieces were then cut to shape, and stapled to the rear of the trim in a similar fashion to the original foam.











The trim was refitted to the engine bay. The cut edges of the foam neatly surround various components and looms for a neater appearance.







Thanks for looking!

[Sheldon McIntosh]

Is this going to be ready for Spettacolo?  I think I speak for many when I say that I'm gagging to see it in the metal.

[shiny_car]

Thanks Sheldon

Unfortunately, won't be anywhere near completed for 2012 Spettacolo, and I doubt it will be ready for 2013. The realistic aim is 2014 Spettacolo - well beyond my original plans. Spare time, funds (big ticket items in the future like suspension, brakes, interior retrim, etc), and being more thorough than anticipated...will blow out the time. But, all good things take time! 

Richard