105 standing pedals - pivot bushing

Evan Bottcher · January 27, 2011, 09:16:31 PM

Hi folks,

Has anyone ever re-bushed their standing pedals? There's a bushing (shown in the attachment - 105.09.44.307.00) which is worn on my clutch pedal. Or is there an alternative?

thanks,
Evan.

Barry Edmunds · January 27, 2011, 10:00:39 PM

Evan
Fairly sure that bush 105.09.44.307.00 is a sintered bronze bush. I have not had to re-bush any of mine. Might be worth checking out other clutch pedals to see what difference there is. I have got a couple of spare pedal mounts if you want to compare.
Barry

tjb0274 · February 16, 2011, 12:41:09 PM

Slightly off-topic, but does anyone have a suggestion for getting rid of slop in the pin holding the clutch actuator fork to the pedal (2160.17599 in Evan's diagram)?

The Ricciardi has slightly modified pedals, with the hole for that pin being above the pivot point rather than below (because the slave is in the engine bay in front of the pedals, rather than beneath the seat), and on my car the hole seems to have been worn larger (and I suspect oval shaped), resulting in a huge amount of play in the clutch.

I've thought about putting some kind of bushing in both to eliminate the play and to prevent future wear, but I'm not sure where to source one.

Colin Byrne · February 16, 2011, 04:03:18 PM

I've welded the hole up and re-drilled to fit before

tjb0274 · February 16, 2011, 04:56:22 PM

Quote from: Colin Byrne on February 16, 2011, 04:03:18 PM
I've welded the hole up and re-drilled to fit before

Hmm - I didn't even consider welding it. Good thought - thanks!

Barry Edmunds · February 16, 2011, 07:17:09 PM

W about driling hole/s and using larger clevis pin?
Barry

AikenDrum105 · February 16, 2011, 09:14:33 PM

Quote from: Colin Byrne on February 16, 2011, 04:03:18 PM
I've welded the hole up and re-drilled to fit before

I've done the same (in a few other places as well...) - works a treat. Removing the slop in the pivot shaft / sintered bushings the pedals pivot on will stop the pedal twisting as you use it - keeping the pedal / clevis / master in the same plane and reducing wear on that hole as well.

Re the bushings, I redid a pivot a while back using some phosphor bronze bar stock - we turned up some new bushings, bored out the old, pressed in the new and reamed to size. The pivot shaft was ok in that case - I know the one in my super is not, so will have to make a new shaft as well as bushings (one day). Any small engineering shop could do this work for you if you don't have access to a lathe & press (vice

)

I haven't done any, but I think it's basically the same way the steering idler housings are renewed.

If you could find proper sintered bushings with the right ID they would work better. Perhaps a grease nipple somewhere for the bushings would make them last indefinitely...

I just moonlight in the machine shop sometimes - wiser members might (I hope) chip in with an easier / better / safer way to do all this

Cheers,

pancho · November 14, 2011, 10:54:41 PM

Evan, What did you end up doing here -> getting a Melbourne machining place to mill one up or did you find the bushings ? I've pulled my assembly apart and found that it has play that I'd like to eliminate.

Evan Bottcher · November 14, 2011, 11:05:19 PM

Haven't got there yet, sorry Pancho. Let me know how you get on

pancho · November 14, 2011, 11:10:51 PM

no problem, I am going to contact some machining shops around here tomorrow or Wednesday and find out what the deal is. If I find any NOS units I'll let you know as well.

AikenDrum105 · November 15, 2011, 01:53:57 PM

Is there much wear in the shaft Pancho ? if not - I have the lathe running again and know where the phosphor bronze bar is - tell me the size of the bush you want and I'll knock one up for you. If the shaft is worn you might need to turn it down a smidge and make the bush oversize, or sleeve the shaft - or turn up a new shaft

If you wanted one out of sintered material - there are places in melb that will make them up for you. You can buy the sintered bar stock and machine them - need to use a clean and sharp tool with light cuts to avoid smearing the pores over - same for the ID - new sharp ream.

There can be fairly hefty side loads on those pedals - I'd probably go the phosphor bronze with a grease nipple / zerk.

Cheers,

Scott.

pancho · November 15, 2011, 02:12:32 PM

there doesnt appear to be a whole lot of play but seeing as I am doign this all properly I deem there is enough to warrant getting it replaced. The shaft seems to be ok with only a light amount of corrosion on one face of the shaft. I hope the pics are sufficient.

honkin shaft side

Smooth shaft side

Bushing showing corrosion areas

the black diamonds are indentations that are full of grease/dirt

I'll PM you so we can have a chat.