My 33's broken

[colcol]

Started putting the struts back together today, as previously noted, when at the side of the road, i tipped the strut upside down, and water ran out of the swivel bearing, so i have decided to use grease that resists water washout, it is made for trailer bearings on boats that are reguarly immersed in water, it is a blue grease and a engineer from Castrol told me it has the viscosity [runninest] of snot!, yuk, just try not to think about that, it is called Valplex, and is blue coloured, i reckon that it would be good in 33 and sud steering racks which always end up full of water, Colin.

[Karu]

You cannot beat archoil grease. Nano technology! The 8300 grease rebuilds the metal and stuffed bearings. It withstands 1,813,000 psi and is not affected by water. Put it into your cv joints and enjoy them for many years to come.

[colcol]

Thanks Karu for the good tip, where do you get archoil grease from?, i have never heard of it before, this is what the forum is all about, giving each other these tips, so much knowledge out there, Colin.

[Karu]

Mr.Ali Erdemir is a senior scientist in the Energy Systems Division at Argonne National Laboratory. He specializes in transportation and materials research, including super low-friction coatings and other nanomaterials. He helped develop a material 40 times slicker than Teflon. He has more than 25 years of extensive research work and experience in the areas of surface engineering, tribology, and lubrication primarily directed toward the development of fuel-efficient and environmentally-friendly transportation systems, multi-functional nanocomposite coatings, nanolubrication, and super low friction materials and coatings.Mr. Erdemir has pioneered development of nearly frictionless carbon films and a series of boron-based nanolubricants and superhard coatings for severe tribological applications. He has directed and conducted fundamental and applied research on solid lubricants and surface engineered tribomaterials. His recent research activities include friction and wear of multifunctional nanocomposite and nanostructured nitride, carbide, and boride coatings; fundamental tribological mechanisms of diamond, diamond-like carbon, and carbide-derived carbons; tribochemistry; implant materials and coatings, boriding; design and synthesis of novel materials and coatings providing super low friction and wear.

Thanks to his hard work and passion "archoil" have been able to improve this technology greatly. AR9100 friction modifier uses the oil as a carrier. The esters it contains strips carbon, soot and varnish from engines, gearboxes (manual and autos) and diffs An incredibly hard lattice structure coating grows throughout the internals, adhering to all metal, filling asperities and lowering the friction coefficient to 0.037.This of course gives better fuel economy, far less mechanical breakdowns and far less oil changes as the engine is not experiencing metal to metal wear. Metal on metal wear also leads to an acidic engine.
The Russians' found minerals in the Ural Mountains that like boron also had hard and slippery properties and spent 10 years developing archoil AR9300. AR9300 resurfaces your engine 5 times harder than original and loweris the friction coefficient to 0.003 (That is slippery). It lasts one year in your engine, gearbox and diff. Whereas AR9100 requires you put it in your engine every oil change. But remember, you can go 2, 3 or 4 oil change cycles before having to change your oil with 9100. If using AR9300 I recommend using AR2300. AR2300 is incredible; it will have your engine, gearboxes and diffs as clean as new after 4000-5000km and restore automatic transmissions and seals. Engines that blow smoke have been restored to like new with many owners saying that they had thought their engine was dead after 500,000 miles but after using AR2300 they had never experienced the power of the engine as they have now. In California a 560 SEC Mercedes failed their required emission test as it put out too much pollution. After using AR2300 it returned the amazing result of 12 parts per million.
I have a 1985 Suzuki Carry van with a 970cc engine and a high revving 5.9 to 1 diff ratio. My old man bought it new; it had a top speed of 100kph from new. I finally, after years of hassling him got it. I put AR9300 in the engine, gearbox and diff, and I drive it every day and I travel a lot of kilometres. Yesterday the odometer turned over to 322,000km (well past its use by date according to Suzuki mechanics). It is not unusual for me to drive 25kmh faster than its 100kmh top speed it had prior to AR9300 and even though it is as small as a Mini, it is amazing to see how much fits in the van. Late last year my parents sold their very large 6 bedroom house and purchased a 2 bedroom unit. They gave me most of their stuff and also I had to collect my stuff I had stored there and forgotten about over the years. I did four 600+km return trips in my tiny van, nonstop each way. Empty there and filled on return. The first trip I put in my Datsun engine and a large industrial mower, thanks dad, then we filled up the van till there was no more room except for me. Each of the 4 return trips I could cruise without any engine strain sitting on 110kph. The fifth trip I hired a large truck; of course I could have done that in the beginning –but-- I was trialling AR9300. The sparkplugs are still like new even though I bought them for $1 each at the Ballarat swap meet in 2010. The compression is excellent and I rarely have to brake. I can be doing 40kph in 5th and put my foot down without any strain on the engine. I was showing this to a mate who had his 33 stolen recently after a bloke smashed into him in Belgrave. Interestingly, the insurance company is refusing to pay up because; can you believe this? His 33 1.7 was stolen while has was organising a tow truck . The driver of the other car has stated he was at fault, the police were notified, the thief charged, he admitted stealing it but refuses to cooperate and tell where it is. But the insurance company claims that they have no proof the Alfa was ever stolen so they refuse to pay..
Anyway, Nanotechnology is the future and archoil is the leader, environmentally friendly and very affordable. It is in all my cars and family and friends cars. Fiona's 3.5 V6 Magna's trip computer went from a constant open road figure of 11.6 litres per 100 km to 8.3. I actually have seen diesel mechanics workmates argue over a few remaining bottles they had as it transformed their 4X4's to "Better than new."  In my front wheel drive cars I cut off the outer driveshaft boots and remove the grease, I then re-pack it with AR8300 (although AR8100 and AR8200 are also bloody brilliant at a much more affordable price) and then I put stretchy boots on. I despise changing drive shafts. Don't forget your wheel bearings for that as near frictionless ride as you will ever get. If only the Alfa's wiring could be so easily and affordably fixed. 
Unfortunately for me, when you enter these 2 websites below you will find I am the Australian distributor and no doubt you might think that I am only writing this for self interest. That is not the case; if that was so I would have joined under a different name other than my real name. You might find me spruiking on the other model Alfa threads, but you won't. I joined this forum because I have an Alfa 33 and I love Alfa's. I know archoil will keep you happy owners and that is why I have my business, to see people happy with their vehicles and not spending as much on them; I despise seeing Australian's working hard with so little money to show for it once the bills and taxes are paid, so If I can keep smiles upon people's faces I am a happy man. I only mentioned archoil because it is the best grease money can buy and while I do not believe in man made climate change, I would like to see an environmentally clean Earth and archoil helps achieve that with less petrol, diesel and oil required, not forgetting less pollutants. karu

www.evergreenamerica.com          www.archoil.com   

[Karu]

I know some of you members went to the archoil websites yesterday so for those interested I thought I would add other forums that are discussing the products. I didn't mention the AR6200, one of the fuel additives, because this thread was about grease. I know these are diesels forums but it works the same with petrol.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/238825-ar6200-fuel-additive.html

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112382

This one is about AR9100 friction modifier

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea52qKFZd1c&feature=related

[Evan Bottcher]

Is it made from snakes?

[Karu]

I can see the similarities. Snakes rejuvenate by growing a new skin. Archoil rejuvenates an engine, gearbox and diff by growing a skin, although much, much harder.

[colcol]

Some things i found out about 33 struts, the series 1, 33, that was leaded and ran from 83-86, the series 2, that ran from 86-90 that was unleaded, include, it looks like the series 1+2 strut assemblys are interchangeable as an assembly, ie series 1 will fit into series 2 and vice versa, although i haven't tried it, the coil springs, the coil seats, the rubber bellows, the coil rubber seat and the top strut rubber mounts are interchangeable between series 1+2, the struts, shock absorbers, bearing swivels are not interchangeable between series 1+2, the swivel bearings in the series 1 is metal to metal, a thin roller against 2 steel washers, it looks like it could have more load carrying capacity than the series 2, but the bearing are almost impossible to get new, the series 2 are ball bearings in a plastic cage, plastic to metal, easier to replace, and easy to buy new, but the one i pulled out, the plastic cage was all split, the top strut rubber mounts are the same from 83-90, but the series 3, 16 valve have a different rubber mount, and it looks like it could have a bearing built into it, but not sure?, Colin.

[Ray Pignataro]

but is it back together yet?

[colcol]

Now going, put it back together about a week ago, drove it to work this week, all good, doesn't like the hot weather and traffic though, thats more 156 territory, Colin.

[Ray Pignataro]

Thats not the car that does not like those conditions , thats all of us

[colcol]

When the Sud was designed for Europe, it had 60 horse power, 25 years later the 33 has the same size radiator and 105 horse power air conditioing power steering, cramped engine bay, lots more weight to tow around, thats why the series 3 Alfa 33, 16 valve had a bigger radiator, Colin.

[colcol]

The drivers side outer constant velocity joint boot has some cracks in it, and the grease is starting to leak out, so i pulled the shaft out and the C.V. joint was loose on the shaft, it is held on the shaft by a snap ring, obviously the impact of the bump or the suspension falling apart has seperated the C.V. joint from the shaft, hadn't noticed any noise or clicking when driving, but the grease had gone hard and wasn't lubricating the C.V. joint very well, so it was time to be pulled apart and cleaned, it was most likely 20 years since it was last done, usually the rubber C.V. joints start to leak before the grease dries out, so over the Easter break its a good time to renew the 4 C.V. joints rubbers, otherwise, you pull the shaft out, do one end and a week later the other end starts leaking, the grease in the other 3 C.V. joints hadn't dried out, it was still runny, but a it was smelling a bit off and it wasn't as 'clingy' as the new grease, when i put the C.V. joint together dry, to see how it felt, it felt ok, so then i put the new Black Moly grease in the C.V. joint and as the grease worked its way in the joint, it become easier to move around, and the new grease actually 'clung' to the C.V. joint, so the new grease is better than the worn out stuff, Colin.

[colcol]

The grease i used was Castrol or Valvoline or BP, its a tub i have had for about 20 years, may be better grease around, but the 33 is coming up to 28 years old, i mean how long can it keep going for?, the outer boots were new from an Alfa spare parts and wrecker, that fitted ok, they had marked on them to suit T.S. 164, you can buy boots of ebay, but the quality varies greatly, i remember buying a boot from a VW place to suit my old Passat, and the boot looked good, nice and shiny, made in China, fitted ok, but after 2 years the rubber was perishing, and i had to replace it, on ebay there are boot kits that are made extra flexiable so they can be installed without having to take the C.V. joint off the driveshaft, they use a wire 'cage' that fits over the C.V. joint to ease the 'flexiable boot over the C.V. joint, the problem here is that the boot ends up floppy and won't run true and you end with too much boot that runs against itself and wears itself out, although they are good to get you out of trouble, or you are selling your car, the C.V. joints in my car have done about 280,000kls, they are the originals that came with the car, and are not rumbly or have too much slop in them, the brand is SPICA, [Italian], and i beleive they were owned by the Italian Goverment at the time, SPICA also made the front shock absorbers on late model Suds and early model 33's, and they used to last about a month, in the car, as they would leak out all the oil, sometimes they were out of oil before the were put in your car, i remember seeing a row of them in a spare parts place and they had leaked all over the shelf, Colin.

[colcol]

The speedo has stopped working, a problem that crops up every 5 years or so, the easiest thing to do is check the speedo sensor for resistance, pull off the 3 wired plug, usually around the master cylinder, and follow it down to the right hand side of the gearbox, it is a grey wire, pull the plug apart and check the resistance of the red and white wires going towards the gearbox, it should be 2-5 ohms depending upon your Multimeter, if all ok the speedo sensor is ok, if no resistance, you have a crook speedo sensor, but mine was ok, so i cleaned the electrical connectors, and tightened the female spade connectors to give it a nice tight fit, the loom that carries the 3 wires to the speedo, that is red, white and non insulated wire from this plug on mine a few years ago was actually housing a broken wire so i rewired it, rather than repairing a broken wire, so thats something to look out for, so anyway, dropped the 33 off the stands, took it for a drive and the speedo works, freinds again, [until next time], Colin.