Some Alfetta GTV Questions

Craig C · February 18, 2012, 08:25:24 AM

Quote from: Fast Eddie on February 16, 2012, 08:09:08 PM
You can safely use and should use 98 premium with the car "as is". No additives or lead replacement required.

Is that 'unless it has been converted' as advised by GTVeloce?

Darryl · February 18, 2012, 11:39:04 AM

Quote from: Craig C on February 18, 2012, 08:25:24 AM
Quote from: Fast Eddie on February 16, 2012, 08:09:08 PM
You can safely use and should use 98 premium with the car "as is". No additives or lead replacement required.

Is that 'unless it has been converted' as advised by GTVeloce?

IMHO Eddie is right. There is no need for lead replacement additive in these engines. The standard valve seats inserts are hard (alloy head - most of the issues with the removal of lead were in iron heads without inserts). "Super" leaded fuel was about 97 RON so 98 is a good replacement (there is more to fuel burn characteristics than one magic number, but its a good start). Aside from that, you don't want any fuel with ethanol in it. You will be fine with any of the "branded" 98 PULP products.

alfa duk · February 18, 2012, 09:06:50 PM

Better still Joe, become a member of aroca and provided you are not in a rush, a club car will become available which in most cases will be in better than average nick or if it does have issues they will more than likely be pointed out by the selling member i would hope. Doug

Fast Eddie · February 24, 2012, 06:20:54 PM

98 Premium with no modifications or additives.

joestram · February 25, 2012, 06:11:59 AM

So what engine oil is mainly used in the alfetta 2lt?
I'm not really after the brand - just the type and if it's full synth or not?
Thanks
Joe

Neil Choi · February 25, 2012, 07:33:16 AM

Penrite HPR30

Beatle · February 25, 2012, 11:59:18 AM

Yep, I'd use HPPR30. But I did use Kmart/Big-W sourced Mobil Super Drop for the firt 8 years in my '79 Alfetta. 5000km changes. I only changed to BP Corse+ after moving to the NT as it held pressure better at a sustained 90-100mph

The engine was torn down at 220,000kms with no unusual wear noted.

However, that was in the eighties so there may have been more zinc content in even cheaper oils back then.

Anyone considered using a diesel engine oil? HPR Diesel 20W/60 has more zinc than the HPR30.

Darryl · February 25, 2012, 08:03:25 PM

Joe, there is no such thing as "the type". Formulations with the same numbers and letters on the sticker aren't all the same especially in what additive pack they run. There is more than one right answer (ie oil that will do the job) but you *can't* say "The engine needs a 20W-50 or 20W-60 oil, any one will do...".

Valvoline alone make at least 5 separate oils meeting that spec, not all suitable for your engine and I can't find the detailed specs for any of them so am not keen to use even the (2) oils they recommend for this car... The current Penrite HPR30 formulation is a 20W-60 oil with adequate levels of additives (published specs) needed to lubricate the valve train on engines like yours, that a lot of people here use in these engines with good results. Use it or do your research starting with threads on oil suitability on this board...

Also note that "brand x product y" changes formulation over the years and may not still be suitable even if some older version was...

aggie57 · February 26, 2012, 08:49:10 AM

HPR30 has been used by Alfa owners for many many years for good reason. Actually I was a little surprised to see it is still one of the oils of choice when I saw it mentioned here; its been around for so long.

One of the things I always liked about using it was that it keeps the engine very clean (on the inside!). Strip down an engine that has been run on Penrite and, so long as it has been changed as it should be, you'll be amazed at how clean things are.

joestram · February 26, 2012, 09:26:07 AM

Thanks for the advice everyone.

Looks like I'm going to buy some Penrite later today

joestram · March 03, 2012, 06:26:35 AM

Hey everyone,

I am just about to service my car today and was wondering how much oil goes back in?

Thanks

Joe

Beatle · March 03, 2012, 09:13:08 AM

Lots and enough....

Supposedly 5.6 litres but it varies. I could always safely pour in an entire 5L container, let it sit, check the level, then gradualy top up to the full mark.

Have you sourced a book for it yet?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alfa-Romeo-Alfetta-1973-1987-Haynes-workshop-manual-/330662386035?pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&hash=item4cfd039973

I prefer it on paper but if you prefer ones & zeros....and prepared to risk copyright infringement...: http://www.filecrop.com/haynes-alfa-romeo-alfetta.html

joestram · May 25, 2012, 09:37:31 PM

Hi Everyone,

I just picked up another alfetta and have a couple of mechanical issues.

I have a lot of oil coming out of the rocker cover gasket on the alternator side and was wondering where I can get these gaskets and if there are any tricks to replacing these or if it is straight forward?

Also, when I press the brakes, nothing happens. I had to use the handbrake to stop today. The pedal feels normal but nothing happens. I also noticed that there was no fluid in the bottle connected to the master cylinder so my question is - can I just fill it up or is there a technique to topping up the brake fluid?

Also, the clutch seems quite stiff compared to my old alfetta - I know the old alfetta I owned had the master clutch cylinder changed so it might feel different because of that or does the stiffness mean something else?

Thanks guys.

Joe

Beatle · May 25, 2012, 10:24:01 PM

So what happened Joe? You didn't hang on to the first one for long. Someone make you an offer you couldn't refuse

The gaskets are available at most of the Alfa spares suppliers (check the main AROCA Vic front page). These gaskets are relatively thick and get hard and eventially crack.

Clean off all the old gasket and glue it into place on the cam cover. Make sure the surfaces on the head are clean. Coat the mating surface with engine oil and place the cam cover in place and lightly do up the cover bolts and let the glue dry. This keeps the gasket on the cam cover but you won't destroy it every time you remove the cover. I've never used anything else when fitting covers (e.g. silicone etc) and while the gaskets may seep a little, never had a bad leak. I've found it's rarely good practice to apply a sealant on both sides of a gasket.

As for the brakes, a full bleed is in order, but you may have other issues. If you are still getting pedal pressure but she won't stop, I'd say you have at least one seized caliper, and maybe a siezed/blocked proportioning valve. Could be an inoperative brake booster.

But give the whole system a visual inspection first and adjust the rear brakes correctly. I've seen all manner of dodgy repairs people will do just to get a car sold.

Have you bought yourself a workshop manual yet? If not I'll have to give you a virtual uppercut .....

If you aren't mechanically experienced, and even if you are but are not Alfamiliar, you really MUST use a manual. The Haynes type Alfetta manuals are very simple (the vehicles are very simple, but different) and you could easily read it cover to cover in a day (there are lots of pictures to take up space).

joestram · May 25, 2012, 10:50:53 PM

Hey Paul,

Thanks for replying.

I figured that the 76 had a little too much rust for me as a beginners car.

I ended up purchasing a 79 gtv which has no rust on it but has a couple mechanical issues which I figured would be easier and cheaper to fix.

Thanks for the advice - I will give these a shot.

How long (minus the glue setting) does it take to remove and install the cam cover?

I did buy myself the haynes manual - but I just find it really hard to make out the black and white pictures and also find there isn't that much detail.

I wish there were better manuals I could buy that had lots of info and colour pics.