GTV Injectors and New Induction System.

[shane wescott]

Hi Guys

Spent Sunday replacing the fuel injectors on the Beast with some new ones from the USA.

As usual I like to keep track of these jobs so I know where I stuffed for next time and also to help others and hopefully give you a laugh.

So Sunday was the day here's what I did.

Please note I may miss a stepp so this is designed to be a guide not a repair manual.

1. Remove Plenum - note i didn't say first, disconnect battery. This is a good move as I happened to short out the 12volt connetion under the bonnet with the plenum - no damage but I hate those loud sparky noises - sometimes requiring a change of undies, but not required this time :-)

2. SO loosen the 6 induction pipes under the plenum, and remove the vacuum line which goes from the plenum to the brake booster. There is a very important wire from the plenum to the engine, and a small plate which secures the FI wiring. Also remmber to remove the throttle return spring.

3. once the plenum is off you have access to the fuel supply rail. Now each injector has a small fuel pipe going up to the rail. these will be almost welded to the rail pipes. So my view was remove the bolts that secure the injectors to the engine, disconnect the rail from the inlet at one end and the regulator at the other end, and job done.

WARNING: FIDDLY BIT Yes a fiddly bit. The bolts on each injector are a pain to get to and IF YOU DROP ONE it can be a pain in the rear to find them and retrieve them - so careful. You may need a magnetised screwdriver I did :-)

I knew I should have released the throttle spring, but I didnt. When the spring decided to flip off, if hooked perfectly under a bolt that was loose, ripped it out of the hole, and the last time I heard it it was on the other side of the engine rattling past spark blugs leads - bugger :-(

WARNING SECOND FIDDLY BIT: Yes more - the injector cables are all secured by a small wire clip, use a small flat screwdriver on the very bottom edge to pry it a little, get some fingers near it and it should come off. Again, these clips have a habit of flying off - double bugger :-( :-(

4. So once you have all the bolts out, you can use a 17mm spanner to loosen the rails, and the rail with it's 3 injectors attached should come out.

Now my seals were all very well perished. I was thinking about repalcing just the two dead injectors, but opted for the lot.

5. Lots of tuggng and twisting is required, but eventually, eventually you will get the small injector pipes off the rail pipes.

6. The injectors have the small pipe, either with a hose clamp at each end or welded one end and a clamp the other.there is the plate for the bolts, the main seal, a circlip, and the actual injector seal - the small one.

7. You need to take the circlip off to get everything else off. Years ago I invested in a set of circlip pliers, these are fantastic but my problem is I can never locate the one for the job. This was the case again and after screwing around with the inward rather than outward pair, I decided to grope around in the garage again and eventually found the right pair - note to self - get organised one day.

As I left he garage with the right tool for the job, I heard a noise I would hear for the rest of the day, the Ducati was snickering because it know once again I would be swearing and cursing the GTV6 by the end of the day.

The Ducati is currently also in pieces and is showing its displeasure at every opportunity - more on this later.

8. SO you pull off the circlip, remove the big seal, take the plate off, and then proceed to reassemble the seals and plate and circlip on the new injector.

9. Once the injector is built you need to mount the small pipe on the injector pipe and tighten the hose clamp. HINT: i used a small amount of spit on the rail pipe and it made everything easier, you could use a small amount of your favourite lube but spit was my lube of choice on Sunday.

10. So you should now have a rail with three new injectors. Make sure all the plates are assembled in the right orientation.

11. Take off the other rail of 3 injectors and repeat.

12. Now at some stage I decided to remove the cable from the throttle sensor and the large wire clip from this plug decided to be helpful and it went looking for my missing bolt - Bugger - now I have two things to crawl under the car and find :-(

13. Once you have the two rails and new injectors done the REAL fun starts. You've just replaced both seals with brand new ones, the bolts are only just long enough for the injectors, and the end result is you need to have all three injectors on one side properly seated AND put decent pressure on the plate AND align it near enough so the the 10mm head bolts will start in the hole.

THIS WAS A REAL PAIN IN THE REAR FOR ME. It was clearly the most time consuming part. Trying to put pressure on, move fingers around and do this all between the limited amounts of space meant only one thing........

The next door neighbor took all his kids inside and decided to let them watch Total Recall because there was less swearing :-)

It's the first time i've done any serious car work at this new house so I think they've had a good run so far :-)

14. Eventually - and I do mean eventually in my case all the injectors were mounted and the rails were secured.

With the help of my Lovely Wife, i rolled the GTV6 backwards and found the offending bolt and spring clip and yes, the clip did know where the both was - they ended up about 2 inches from each other :-)

15. connect all the good bits to the plenum DO NOT FORGET THE WIRE ON THE PLENUM IT IS IMPORTANT.

16. Once everything is connected, check and double check the connections.

17. Now the test. Reconnect the battery, key in ignition, switch it to on, but dont start it.

18. Take the cover off the Air Flow Meter and rotate the arm. This will activate the fuel pump and you should hear fuel circulating around the system, you shouldnt hear any hissing leaks and you shouldnt smell petrol. Fuel constantly circulates around the system to try and avoid vapour locks on hot days when you are sitting idling. The thought is fuel from the tank will be cooler.

I did this for a few minutes, just to be sure to be sure.

19. Once you are happy there is no obvious leaks, start the car and see how you go.

In my case the Beast roared into life, and kept roaring - BUGGER- I had the throttle cable kinked and it was at full throttle!!!!!  I switched off, corrected this and then the Beast was much more under control.

I let it warm up for a while, sniffed every where. shut it down, did the fuel pump test again and all looked good.

Well that was a fun 4 hours :-)

Next was my new Induction system. I followed the instructions, and just as I was starting for the test, the Beast was out of fuel - Bugger.

By this time it was late, I was knackered, and with a flat battery now it could wait til tomorrow.

NEXT DAY.

Fuel filled up, battery charged, and now it roared into life :-) Took it for more fuel, a car wash, and a run up to Sunbury - purring like a kitten and it seemed to me to have more pickup :-) I have a set run I test the car on so I can pickup better or worse performance up the Bulla hill etc.

I mentioned the Ducati was snickering, and the next day when I ws going to work, I needed some plastic sheet for the wet seats from the leaky sunroof in the car wash :-(

As I bumped past the Duke with my car keys in that side pocket, the Duke bumped back and broke my ignition key - Bugger.

Of course I didnt realise that until I tried to start the car, found the broken end in my pocket, worked out whose fault it was, and went to gvie the Ducati a piece of my mind. The end result was I promised to finish the work on it weekend after Easter. I hoping that stops it "pointing the exhaust" at me and the GTV6 for the next couple of weeks.

So there it is, long winded as always, but hopefully of some help.

Any questions just ask.

Catch ya

Shane

[martym00se72]

Love your work Shane - this is on the 'to-do' list...