Upgrade / Gearbox Questions

[colcol]

Just do it now before you have to do it with a new gearbox casing, if you weld the gearbox, it will have to be done properly, as the oil will leak out every pore, then you will have to get the casing stress releived, so it doesn't crack, then you will have to get it machined, and that means gearbox out of car, when they fit the Q2 diff, they can do it with the gearbox in the car, and it will fail in the morning running late for work in the rain, anything that can go wrong will go wrong in the worst possible way, Colin.

[Gotta B Red]

I read you 5x5 Colin,  As I think your're agreeing, the welding repair is potentially problematic if it was not done "properly".

A diff repair/upgrade that was reactive as opposed to proactive could be as difficult a commodity to predict or underwrite as driver style/behaviour.When viewed in the context of buying a used vehicle from other than an impeccable and well known source.

If the replacement housing isn't hideously expensive, are we talking new or used, and what would you think a ballpark might be?

When 'hideous' and 'vintage Ferraris' are mentioned in almost the same breath you might forgive me for some apprehension.

I would always choose the replacement path and not the repair even if it were only a crack in the casing. Welding aluminium opens a pandora's box of woe.

I'm also not talking as if this has happened to me, I have heard the message, I will perform the mod immediately post purchase if it has not been done. It's just that I'd like to know who did the job and why, was it reactive or proactive and how was the repair/upgrade performed or achieved with a replacement casing or welding repair if it were reactive. If it's a weld, then I'd prefer to walk away.

Cheers,
Andy

[colcol]

If the Q2 upgrade has been done, you could ask who done the job, and to see receipts, i doubt anyone would weld the casings, as it would be a repair that would go on forever, take the gearbox out of the car, strip it, get it welded, have it crack tested, have it stress releived, have it machined, most repairers want to fix the car and move it on, to work on the next car, and the possibility of a comeback, if something goes wrong with the repaired casing, Colin.

[John Hanslow]

Found a link re fitting a Q2 diff.

http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/156-147-GT-Q2%20Differential.shtml

[bix]

Quaife also manufacture a non-GTA v6 LSD. See the following link: http://quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qdh6e-1

[shiny_car]

Q2 or Quaife would be fine. Quaife seems more 'heavy duty', but I've never heard of anyone breaking a Q2. EB Spares is a good source for the Q2, and Autolusso for the Quaife; both in the UK. You will also need new bearings and seals (Autolusso will do a 'kit' with everything).

As for suspension, Bilstein coilovers are 'stiff', especially if you lower it a lot. B14 in particular; B16 are fully adjustable (compression/rebound), but also very expensive. What do you want from the new suspension?

If you are wanting to lower the car heaps, or be able to adjust the rideheight, then coilovers are the better choice. But if it's a street car and you don't want it really stiff, then better choices are either KW (eg: Version2 with adjustable rebound), or Zeatek (from Alfastumper.dk), the latter receiving favourable reports and top value. If you don't necessarily want a really low car, then conventional springs+shocks are a good option, like Eibach Pro Kit + KONI Sport/FSD, or Bilstein B6.

For the exhaust, CSC is a good brand. So too Ragazzon and Supersprint. Or you could contact Wizard from alfaowner.com forums; his exhausts offer more of a metallic howl (ie: Ferrari-esque) which some people prefer, compared with the bassy sound of the other brands.

[Gotta B Red]

Hi All,
Apart and distinct from the way or change in the way the car drives, is or are there any external or visible indicators that a Q2 has been fitted.
A good accurate service record with all documentation retained is the obvious choice. But I'm guessing here, other than first hand witness account from the repairer and or the owner (could be dubious for a number of reasons) or documentation there would be precious little else to confirm whether it's insitu or not.
Another guess would be, it may be difficult to tell by driving if there is nothing to compare with,that is having driven the vehicle or one like it with and without Q2.
I'm thinking some sellers might get dutifully pissed off if a test driver starts baggin' em up in his/her pride and joy! Just to see if it's got a Q2.
cheers,
Andy

[trippytipo]

Thanks for all your opinions and advice, gentlemen.

The cheapest place I found for the Q2 diff and required accessories was EB Spares in the UK (approx. GBP 500 excluding shipping).

Labour-wise the figure is approx AU $600-$700 given that there are no complications with seized bolts or otherwise.

I was quoted approx. AU $2000 if parts are to be supplied by the local mechanic.

Interestingly enough, I was told by LD that they have not done a Q2 diff on the 2.5 V6 before, only the GTAs.   

[wankski]

LD doncaster most certainly have...


on my 2004 2.5 156 v6 !