Type - R Gtv6

julianB · September 28, 2012, 11:53:25 AM

I've just realised that too, brad- spacer plate it is, then...

Beatle · September 28, 2012, 09:33:44 PM

That's going to take some fat spacers! And spacers may not get through rego?

BradGTV · September 29, 2012, 07:18:40 AM

in sa spacers are illegal not sure about other states? i know people who run 25-50mm hubcentric spacers on track cars, no issues, they work...

on the alfetta platform, when you start increasing offset by big wheel or spacer, it increases the swinging radius of the steering front wheels, it will almost deffinatly rub on the inner guard / footwell area.

julianB · October 01, 2012, 07:56:16 PM

Spacers will be for the track only ! I'll go to the extent of 'almost rubbing' and leave it there.

Anticipating first start on weds. Excited!

julianB · December 10, 2012, 10:06:58 PM

Hey guys, work has been a bit nuts, so I've neglected to post any updates.

Here's a run down:

*Carpet arrived from Tru-Fit - yet to check it out, fitment wise. Looks nice. I'll let you know how it fits.
*Door cards and rear inserts re-trimmed. Look awesome.
*Seals arrived from MrFiat.com - these went in reasonably well, but it took a fair bit of stuffing around, with the window frames going in and out a few times, I scratched them. Inevitable, being the first time I've done something like this. I cut some of the bits too short, so I will pull them out and re do them later on down the track. Glued the seals together with Cynoacrylate glue- the same sort of super glue you might use on a model aircraft (yeah OK- I'm an aircraft nerd and build models!). Loctite make this in their 406 compound. Do yourself a favour and go to a hobby shop and ask for Cyno!
*She runs and I have most of the exhaust in (except one bolt I couldn't friggin find). The rear used to exit out of the centre, but now exits out of the LHS, so I will need the rear section re-made.
*Factory rails had the legs ground off with an angle grinder, separated them, sandblasted them bare, welded some tube and steel plate on them, and I now have the recaros in.
*Got my old C/F bonnet on with pins. It will do for now. I'm still having the other bonnet worked on- to get the Zender moulding onto it.

Here's some links revving it to 5. Wasn't going to bang 8k with the thing on stands. Asking for trouble just revving it to 5!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pe39DIwZgCU&feature=plcp (me being an idiot!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UG7AEv6cn8U&feature=plcp (my mate being an idiot, too!)

It's an amazing feeling to have it get to here.
In the next couple of weeks, it will go to have the RS Coilovers and watts link put on, rear hubs swapped to 5 bolt, water pump and timing belt changed.
Trimmer said that first week of Jan he wants the seats done, and I will take the car to him for roof lining and carpet help.
Shooting for end of January- completely back together and on the road.

I've taken a Brisbane basing with work and imagine I will be there for 6-7 months, so I'll drive her up there and possibly start playing around with getting the E11V2 wired up.

Once that's done, I'll figure out the future, but I'm probably going to start saving for some Low comp pistons and rods, because normally aspirated is fun, but boost=instant torque. The idea being to have just enough torque to spin the wheels through second with 225s, because I'm pretty sure that's just below the point where the transaxle will break!

julianB · December 10, 2012, 10:11:00 PM

more

julianB · December 10, 2012, 10:15:54 PM

more

Al Campbell · December 11, 2012, 08:06:56 AM

Mate,

While you have the interior out, if you haven't done it already, replace the hard plastic breather tube to the fuel tank. And while you're at it all the rubber bits associated with the tank & vapour condensation tank. Clean all the oily goop out of metal parts too. Clean the one way pressure relief valve also. - so you don't get the "Petrol smell in the cabin in summer" syndrome. - Or whatever set-up your car has. It was originally a 4 cyl wasn't it?

I was always a bit concerned about the hard plastic vapour return line from the oil separator to the tank being routed under the carpet. I was considering replacing it with metal brake-line if I did the carpets.

Looking good. No, looking fantastic. Red with tan interior is may favourite combo.

AL.

MD · December 11, 2012, 08:44:06 AM

Hey JOOOLES !! Looking good buddy. I am sensing some pants wetting excitement developing around your place.

When you get to Brizzy, I 'll have that coffee ready for ya. And, oh yeah, please overlook the bib I'll be wearing to stop the dribble getting on my shirt..

LOVE IT..... LOVE IT .... LOVE IT !!!!

julianB · December 12, 2012, 07:58:06 PM

Thanks Mike ! Wetting my pants frequently at the moment!
Send me a PM with your number - looks like I will either be in wollOngabba or bulimba.

Thanks for the tip, Al- where is this one way valve!?

Al Campbell · December 13, 2012, 08:38:17 AM

Julian,

Just a much easier job to do with back seats removed and the plastic interior boot "hatch" off. Prick of a job with the car all assembled in the heat of the summer, which is the only time of year when you get the petrol smell.

From your image below. One way valve is in green oval, No. 3 in Manual page. Little spigot on top of valve lets air IN to tank pull off the rubber hose and blow hard into the spigot. fair bit of pressure required to overcome the pressure valve. Rubber tube going to the bottom of your picture joins to hard plastic tube inside the body somewhere near the wheel arch. I managed to replace the rubber and join it to the hard plastic tube without removing the trim card. I threaded a piece of 1 mm "fencing" type wire all the way through the hard plastic tube from the oil separator on the engine to the one way valve to check that it wasn't blocked. I reckon any tank over pressure in hot weather must go back into the engine via the oil seperator. Not legal to vent raw petrol fumes into the air. Later cars (in the USA anyway) had a charcoal canister/filter behind the wheel arch trim - bottom of the A pillar on Ozzie driver's side.

In the yellow oval there is a brass tube within tube arrangement, must be part of the vapour separation. Absolute mongrel to get the right size tubing and re install it. I had to drill out the pop rivet holding the plastic condensation tank on and push the tubing on out of the car. Brackets were loose anyway and would of been a source of rattles. Sometimes lube the inside of the tube with windex helps to push it on. Ammonia is nice and slippery, but evaporates quickly. Who likes a tight fit when dry?

Also the rubber tube from the condensate tank to the fuel tank has to be the right length, my first attempt with fuel tank in situ was long enough to kink shut.
But wait there's more! The brass tube on the top of the fuel tank that takes the rubber hose from the condensate tank has a small brass insert with a very fine hole, mine flew off when I pulled the rubber tubing off, lost in boot for a while. It was blocked with oily goop on my car contributed to the pressure build up for me. That little insert was a factory re-call/modification on the 75's, so it seem to be important for vapour separation.

Another issue with my car was the fuel gauge sender seal on the top of the tank. Mine looked great but still leaked. After filling the tank and going around a few corners, I could see the wet petrol on the top of the tank around the seal. Tightening screws didn't help of course, Replaced mine. Hard to get at half of the 6 screws with the tank in place.

May as well cover all rubber bits. Don't forget to check the condition of the big tank filler tube and the little fuel cap well to tank over-fill drain tube.

Do all that and no more petrol smell after filling in summer.

Regards,
Rubbery AL.

julianB · January 09, 2013, 12:31:27 AM

Well had a great day today- with no mirrors, door trims and console, but no carpet, I took her for a spin down the road and back.
With the balding old 16s on the back, she stepped out nicely, which was a great way to rekindle the relationship with the old girl, so much so, I'm gonna try to score a girlfriend of the same vintage! Late 20s! Lol

If anyone wants a little drive vid so you can hear her, just pm me ur address.

Off to Hugh Guthrie on thurs. I'll try get the seats done shortl. Have a wedding etc comin up- timing is shocking!

MD I've been comin back to syd on my days off - tried to call u, no didn't work...

I'll post some pics- I really like the 156 wheels! But I can't wait for my Zender Milanos to show up...!

julianB · January 09, 2013, 12:32:38 AM

PS Al, thanks for the advice! I'll let you know when I'm driving It but one of my hoses was blocked!

Al Campbell · January 09, 2013, 08:17:35 AM

Hey I just noticed there is no Battery well in Jules' boot! My car had a metal (rusty, of course) box like the spare wheel well. Well I'll be horn swoggled.

MD · January 09, 2013, 08:28:41 AM

QuoteMD I've been comin back to syd on my days off - tried to call u, no didn't work...

I know what your problem is. Your nuts are under your chin with excitement strangling the bloodflow to the cranium. You forgot to put the 40 cents in the slot when using the TARDIS ya dummkopf.

Try again and this time get your mum to sew up the holes in your pockets so the coins don't fall out, run down your leg into those lead boots you wear..

Keep up the good work fella..